What do you guys think is the best engine build is for a 289.I am rebuilding my 289 but want to upgrade the performance but not to crazy. I want to be around 300 hp. Not wanting to spend a ton of money either.Is there a engine kit that would get me around there.Please give me some ideas.Thanks
289 engine build
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there is a pretty simple recipe for 300 horse. This includes nice aluminum heads, better intake (RPM, Stealth, etc.), and a matching cam. Along as you have the other compliments such as a properly tuned carb, headers, etc. That should get you to 300 horse. As far as money is concerned, horsepower costs money so you'll need to spend some of it. Typically aluminum heads run 1000, intake 175, cam 200 (all rough estimates). Not to mention all of the little stuff such as gaskets, rocker arms, pushrods, etc. I'm not trying to discourage you just be realistic going in. Builds usually cost more than expected. Ask me how I know! Also, what are your goals (drag, street/strip, autocross, sreet) for the car. That will help the guys when making parts recommendations. Also, tell us if it's a stick or auto, whether it has gears, all the good info. All together 300 hp isn't too difficult, just takes the right planned out approach.
sure, there are world jrs/roush 180's. Usually the base aluminum heads are out flowing these, but that's design not material. Oh yeah RHS has a set of 180cc. If you don't mind me asking, why do you not want aluminum heads? If it's cash, don't let that sway you. I decided to go cheap and have iron heads ported/polished/milled and now I wish I would have gone aluminum. Once again the difference is not based in the material, just usually the design (typically, not always though).
it all depends who you talk to LOL. If I could do it all over I would just went ahead and got aluminums. Typically the aforementioned iron heads need work to flow the same as say afrs or twisted wedge heads. Typically you can run more timing/compression with aluminums. Also, with the less flow offered by the roush/world heads you need to run a bigger cam to make the same horsepower. Also remember that these are generalizations at this point. I'm trying to point you in the right direction. Another thing to remember is that the key, at least to me, to making horsepower with a small block ford is in a good cylinder head. Just me though.
zookeeper
Founding Member
I think you could get 300hp with a basically stock motor, something like a Comp Cams 268H cam, a good intake, with a 600cfm vacuum-secondary carb and tri-Y headers. I don't know what your budget is, but that's a low-dollar combo that will perform well, give you great mileage and be dead reliable.
Do what Zookeper suggested. He's dead on. The 289 Hi-po's Shelby used had nothing other than an intake and exhaust upgrade and these were "rated" at 306 at the flywheel. Bolt on a Ford Racing A321 intake (this is basically a repop of the Shelby intake) Holley 600 carb, Tri-Y headers, upgrade the cam per Zookeeper's suggestion, and open the exhaust ports on the heads then blend down into the bowls. Do this on the sides and roof, leave the floor as is. Port match the intake sides. Smooth off any rough surfaces in the chambers. If you want to spend more and go with a bigger cam, upgrade to screw in studs and guide plates. Going the aluminum head route will run you $1500 once you factor in a set of roller rockers and new pushrods. Less if you shop around.
zookeeper
Founding Member
No, the 268H is a very mild cam, I have that in my car and it's great for the street. It has a ton of low-end (for a 302) and even gets better mileage than stock. How much better could it get? BTW, don't get too hung up on numbers. Instead of saying you want 300hp, ask yourself what you want the car to do. My goal was to have my car perform as well as my '88GT with a 5.0, no better and no worse. I wanted streetability and reliability and the car will probably never see a racetrack so big numbers and high rpm's aren't what I need. If you set performance goals rather than random numbers, you'll be a lot happier.
Apparently you didn't comprehend what I posted before. Go back a reread it. I was very clear.oh yeah LOL. I mean I have 10:1, stealth intake, between mild and wild cam, 600 cfm holley, long tubes, ported heads. That's good for probably 300 at the flywheel but not at the wheels right? I was just giving him my experience, for future growth I would just have gotten aluminum heads. sorry for the confusion D!
Well the real issue here in doing iron factory heads and aluminum aftemarket is economics. To see which is more cost effective, depends on what it cost's to do what you want done with the iron heads. Start with bare junkyard cores, and you're right, it's probably better to go with aftermarket heads. If you're starting with a serviceable set of iron heads, doing what needs done could be less than $4-500 easily. When I did the overhaul on my 68 Merc, it turned out the heads only cost me $100 or so. These had 60K miles on them and all they really needed was new seals. I splurged for new springs. I've done a set of junkyard E7's for about $200. That was porting myself, plus the valve job and new springs. I've got $1500 in my Canfield heads. $1100 for the heads and another $275 for the roller rockers plus another $50 to mill them down to 57 ccs. They were supposed to be 58 cc heads but the actual ccs was 64. Back in the 80's I spent $700 to get a set of 428CJ heads back in shape, new seals, guides, seats, springs, retainers,etc.
And there's nothing wrong with a 300 flywheel horse 289/302, these I've learned are the most enjoyable to drive, for daily drivers. My 331 was fun in the Ranger, but I also enjoy the day to day reliablity of the 275 or so hp 5.0 that's there now. It's plenty fun with the Toploader 4 speed and 3.73 rear. In a 800 lb lighter car it'd be a blast too.
Shakin66
Founding Member
Engine builders tip...
If you are going to be doing rocker arm adjustments DONT get the bright idea to prime up your oil before hand. If you do this the lifter's plunger doesnt relax which causes the valve spring to open instead. Anyone know how long it takes the lifters to relax or any tips to bleed them down so I can set move on? Its been 2 hours and I really want the car running tonight....
If you are going to be doing rocker arm adjustments DONT get the bright idea to prime up your oil before hand. If you do this the lifter's plunger doesnt relax which causes the valve spring to open instead. Anyone know how long it takes the lifters to relax or any tips to bleed them down so I can set move on? Its been 2 hours and I really want the car running tonight....
Lifter pump up shouldn't be an issue. Unless you've got anti pump up aftermarket lifters or something. I've bolted down lots of non adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters and they were fine. Even with the Crane rollers in my 331, there were no issues after adjusting them with the lifters full of oil.
Shakin66
Founding Member
Im sorry I thought I was doing a new post on that...Its been two hours and it they are rock hard. I'm checking P2V clearance with these new Dart heads so I guess I will move on to another cylinder and see if its locked down.
They are lifters that came from Anderson Motorsports so they may be anti pump ups....Great, Its my one day off and I cant move forward.
They are lifters that came from Anderson Motorsports so they may be anti pump ups....Great, Its my one day off and I cant move forward.
