My 16yr old nephew has a stock 2 barrel 289 automatic 68 mustang. Him and his dad want to "hop it up". I recommended a carb, cam, manifold and a set of headers. Is there anyone that can recomend a good package or combination for this engine? With these parts will they be able to feel a difference when driving the car? We are not looking for a rocket but somthing with a little more zip. Thanks
289 hop up help
- Thread starter 04mustang70
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
That's exactly how my '68 started life. It's got a little more "zip" now. 
I don't know of any parts packages off the top of my head, but your recommendations are good. I would throw in dual exhaust(with a crossover) if the car doesn't have it already. The exhaust will have to be modified to fit headers anyway. The cam also should not be too wild, especially with stock heads and a stock converter.
I don't know of any parts packages off the top of my head, but your recommendations are good. I would throw in dual exhaust(with a crossover) if the car doesn't have it already. The exhaust will have to be modified to fit headers anyway. The cam also should not be too wild, especially with stock heads and a stock converter.
You looking for the biggest bang, or the biggest bang for the buck?
Bare necessity-
Edelbrock 600 carb.
Steel pre-bent line for carb.
Cam- Ford C9OZ-6250-C, or similar aftermarket hydraulic cam (1)
Distributor recurved (it's probably out of spec anyway).
289HP exhaust manifolds - Tri-Y's - headers. The manifolds are easiest to install and live with, the headers the most top-end power, Tri-Ys a good compromise.
Heads port-matched to the exhaust - not as expensive as it sounds, you can even do it yourself if you are careful.(2)
Dual exhaust with H pipe, or X pipe. Don't get crazy on diameter, 2" is fine, 2.25" is plenty. 2.5" is too much for a mild 289.
Nice to have-
Pertronix I ignition module, to avoid those pesky tune-ups.
Fun to have-
Chrome or aluminum air cleaner.
Chrome or aluminum valve covers.
Way over-rated-
Fat ignition wires.
Exotic $400 ignition systems.
(1) The C9OZ-C was Ford's hydraulic version of the C3OZ-C 289HP cam. The C9 is 290° (218°@.050) .470".
(2) The greatest performance weakness of the 289/302 is the Ford heads, with their tiny, restrictive exhaust outlets. These need to be opened up right at the constriction at the gasket mating surface. If they are later "smog" heads, the "bumps" for the smog ports have to be smoothed off, too. Doing this and this only will make the engine run as if you put a slightly better cam in it, and adding a cam without doing this wastes much of the potential of the new cam.
Bare necessity-
Edelbrock 600 carb.
Steel pre-bent line for carb.
Cam- Ford C9OZ-6250-C, or similar aftermarket hydraulic cam (1)
Distributor recurved (it's probably out of spec anyway).
289HP exhaust manifolds - Tri-Y's - headers. The manifolds are easiest to install and live with, the headers the most top-end power, Tri-Ys a good compromise.
Heads port-matched to the exhaust - not as expensive as it sounds, you can even do it yourself if you are careful.(2)
Dual exhaust with H pipe, or X pipe. Don't get crazy on diameter, 2" is fine, 2.25" is plenty. 2.5" is too much for a mild 289.
Nice to have-
Pertronix I ignition module, to avoid those pesky tune-ups.
Fun to have-
Chrome or aluminum air cleaner.
Chrome or aluminum valve covers.
Way over-rated-
Fat ignition wires.
Exotic $400 ignition systems.
(1) The C9OZ-C was Ford's hydraulic version of the C3OZ-C 289HP cam. The C9 is 290° (218°@.050) .470".
(2) The greatest performance weakness of the 289/302 is the Ford heads, with their tiny, restrictive exhaust outlets. These need to be opened up right at the constriction at the gasket mating surface. If they are later "smog" heads, the "bumps" for the smog ports have to be smoothed off, too. Doing this and this only will make the engine run as if you put a slightly better cam in it, and adding a cam without doing this wastes much of the potential of the new cam.
Thanks for the info. It all helps very much. So you thing for the best bang for the buck I should ditch the heads? I see in the summit catalog that edelbrock offers a power package that has a Performer RPM Air Gap intake, a ppair of Performer RPM cylinder heads and a Performer RPM camshaft for $1879. What do you guys think of this package? How much power could I expect to get out of it with this package and headers and proper carb.? It doesn't list cam specs or info on the heads either. Thanks again
if you go with what 2+2gt wrote, you will have a strong reliable engine. as stated the weakest point of the stock cylinder heads is the exhaust ports, however my advice would be to upgrade to a set of world products windsor jr heads. you can buy them complete for around $900, and they come with new valve springs, valves, larger intake and exhaust ports, screw in studs, etc. and at $900 for the pair they are quite economical for the power they add, about 40hp.
i also feel that a good electronic ignition is not a nice to have, but a necessary add on. you dont have to with a high dollar MSD ignition though, as 2+2 stated the pertronix is a good set up, as would be a duraspark ll ignition. as for fat ignition wires, not a bad investment, but not necessary either.
i also agree with limiting the exhaust pipe diameter to 2 1/4" and using tri-y headers.
i also feel that a good electronic ignition is not a nice to have, but a necessary add on. you dont have to with a high dollar MSD ignition though, as 2+2 stated the pertronix is a good set up, as would be a duraspark ll ignition. as for fat ignition wires, not a bad investment, but not necessary either.
i also agree with limiting the exhaust pipe diameter to 2 1/4" and using tri-y headers.
I still have the iron heads on my 289HP. Pretty strong for crummy heads. The difference is how much you want to spend. A grand for new ones, about $200 to have yours done, or next to nothing if you do them yourself. If your heads are tired, and need work, get new ones, by the time you had them fixed up, you'd be ballpark around the new ones. Rbohm has it right.
6Stang7
New Member
I know this isn't related to the engine, but if you want the biggest bang for you buck, then I'd get a new set of gears in the rear. If this car doesn't see any freeway driving, then a set of 3.50's would do quite well.
i will agree with this, if your heads are in good shape, then port the exhaust and run them. but also understand that you wont have screw in studs, or new springs. and the stock springs wont handle the cam that 2+2gt recommended. while springs are easy enough to change, it still adds to the cost of the cam swap, as does adding screw in studs if you want to go that route. so even though the valves are sealing fine, add up everything else that you might want or need to do and then decide. if you can get away with spending say $500 to get more from your stock heads, including new springs, go with the stock heads. much more than that though and i would seriously consider the windsor jr heads. that is what i will be using on my 289 when i build it.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Another less expensive option is a set of used or rebuilt GT-40 iron heads. A side benefit there is that they will already have hard seats for unleaded fuel. If you want to see some 289 heads with soft seats that have been pounded out, I can take a picture of mine. GT-40Ps are another option, but not all headers will clear the plug wires with them.
Personally, I don't think you need to go that far at this point. Basic bolt-ons will make a noticeable seat-of-the-pants improvement. Gears would make a big difference alone, but anything much over ~3.25 without overdrive is going to be buzzy at highway speeds. My '68 has 3.50s and it turns around 3200rpm @ 70mph. I had a '65 notchback with a 289, E7TE heads(modified for roller rockers+guide plates), mild cam(~.480" IIRC), longtube headers, 600 Holley, same intake, trans, and gears as my '68 and it was a fun car to drive. It probably wouldn't have done much better than a 14 flat, but that will probably feel fast to a 16 year-old.
Personally, I don't think you need to go that far at this point. Basic bolt-ons will make a noticeable seat-of-the-pants improvement. Gears would make a big difference alone, but anything much over ~3.25 without overdrive is going to be buzzy at highway speeds. My '68 has 3.50s and it turns around 3200rpm @ 70mph. I had a '65 notchback with a 289, E7TE heads(modified for roller rockers+guide plates), mild cam(~.480" IIRC), longtube headers, 600 Holley, same intake, trans, and gears as my '68 and it was a fun car to drive. It probably wouldn't have done much better than a 14 flat, but that will probably feel fast to a 16 year-old.
I just did a refresh/hop up on a 289 but haven't run it yet. I did a stock 289 block @ .030 over, original crank and rods, hypereutectic flat top pistons, an old Shelby Cobra alum intake with a 600 Autolite 4100, but used a set of 351 W heads with 60.4 comb. chambers. I put in 1.96/1.6 stainless valves a comp cam 268H, light port matching, roller rockers(magnum-entry level) and matched springs. Comp said to save a little $, to consider using the original press in studs as the lift on the cam lobe isn't that high and don't rev it past 6000. I was on a budget and had much of the pieces/hardware already, the machine work was the biggest bite. The whole thing was right at $2000. I give up some compression with this, but should be able to move more gas through and gain that way.
In a Holley, anything from the 390-450 cfm to a 600. You can use a bigger carb in a vacuum secondary, but the lower rpm throttle response goes down as you go larger in cfm. The only benefit would be in the upper rpms. I'm running a 570 street avenger on a mildly upgraded roller 302 in my 89 Ranger backed with a Toploader 4 speed and 3.73 rear, it's got the best of all worlds, power, throttle response, driveability and fuel economy. The motor is basically an Explorer 5.0 but with a Ford A321 intake topped with the 570.
woodsnake
15 Year Member
Hey, more free advice....
I think a 650 Holley will be perfect, for now, and when you upgrade later as money and responsibility allow.
2 1/2 pipe is perfect, for any small block Ford.
Again budget is key, but summit lists a lot of cam kits that provide all the parts you need for a fun small block.
Like this:
COMP Cams K31-414-3 - COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Don't forget, the local craigslist can be a good source of cheap used, rebuild able parts, and hard parts like intakes, etc....
Duraspark ignition is probably the single biggest upgrade you can make to any vintage Ford, V8 or even I6....
I think a 650 Holley will be perfect, for now, and when you upgrade later as money and responsibility allow.
2 1/2 pipe is perfect, for any small block Ford.
Again budget is key, but summit lists a lot of cam kits that provide all the parts you need for a fun small block.
Like this:
COMP Cams K31-414-3 - COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Don't forget, the local craigslist can be a good source of cheap used, rebuild able parts, and hard parts like intakes, etc....
Duraspark ignition is probably the single biggest upgrade you can make to any vintage Ford, V8 or even I6....
I think this package would be better suited for the street than the Performer RPM package, and it's got better heads than stock or the Windsor Jr's.
Edelbrock.com - Performer Power Packages - Idle to 5500 RPM
It comes with everything you need--heads, cam, lifters, intake and carburetor; about the only thing you'll be missing is the exhaust system, and as mentioned before, a set of Tri-Y headers with a good dual exhaust system & crossover will complete the system.
I know that the stock exhaust system size for Fox-body Mustangs with the 5.0L was 2-1/4", so if you stick to that size or 2-1/2", you should be fine, especially if you get a Mandrel-bent kit like the Magnaflow or the Flowmaster kits.
A set of gears will be a great addition to finish off the car, and you can probably get them installed for under $300
Figure around $2K for the Edelbrock kit, another $300 or so for Tri-Y headers, and around $350 for the Magnaflow 2-1/2" exhaust system, and with the gears you can really wake up that car for around $3K
Edelbrock.com - Performer Power Packages - Idle to 5500 RPM
It comes with everything you need--heads, cam, lifters, intake and carburetor; about the only thing you'll be missing is the exhaust system, and as mentioned before, a set of Tri-Y headers with a good dual exhaust system & crossover will complete the system.
I know that the stock exhaust system size for Fox-body Mustangs with the 5.0L was 2-1/4", so if you stick to that size or 2-1/2", you should be fine, especially if you get a Mandrel-bent kit like the Magnaflow or the Flowmaster kits.
A set of gears will be a great addition to finish off the car, and you can probably get them installed for under $300
Figure around $2K for the Edelbrock kit, another $300 or so for Tri-Y headers, and around $350 for the Magnaflow 2-1/2" exhaust system, and with the gears you can really wake up that car for around $3K
Three grand is a lot more than many can spend in these times. The 268H cam and lifters will run less than $300, Used intake----$100, New 570 carb---$350, Headers $150, dual exhaust as little as $200 locally made. And a set of gears figure about $500, that's almost half spent for a lot of bang. Heads can come later if it's not enough power for a teenager (which it will be plenty) to handle. And after all that, something will likely need to be done in the stopping department, if it hasn't been done already.
True- Anyone can dump a ton of money and get a faster car. The challenge is in spending wisely. For example, if a plain 2" dual exhaust gives you a power increase, is a 2.5" custom exhaust twice as powerful at twice the price?
Will a $400 billet distributor give you 4x the power increase of having your stocker recurved for $75? Frankly, I'd go with the stocker and use the $325 savings toward a 3.55 gearset.
I have done the port-matching on my engine myself. Took me less than 2 hours, excluding R&R of the heads. If you are doing intake, cam, and headers, R&R the heads will add less than 2 hours to the job. Anyway, the port matching job made such a difference I could feel the difference before I left the driveway. Runs smoother at every speed, from idle to highway. The shift lever has noticeably less vibration on the highway.
I agree on the port job on the heads, but even that is more than your average weekend mechanic wants to tackle. It's really easy to screw up a good set of heads doing this job without knowing what you're doing first. Better left done on an old set of heads first, then moving to a serviceable set. I've done two sets myself but didn't use a running set of good heads the first time. I started with a $50 set of E7TE's for that. Also you have to add in the cost of a die grinder, air compressor and bits if you really want to go all out and open the ports up and bowl blend the areas under the valves.
Well, I'm not talking about a full port job, just trueing the opening to the exhaust manifold/header flange, and removing the Thermactor bump if any. There's a lot of meat at the opening flange, Crane proved that with their truly huge "Fireball" port, which started out as a stock Ford head. You can get a cheap die grinder at Sears that'll do the job. Fine for the hobbyist, they have half a dozen under $50.
This is the 289 Fireball, a truly excessive size, which required special headers:
Yea, but just opening the port flange seems a waste when even more power can be realized by opening the port roof and walls down into the bowls (which is what I did with the E7's and a set of D0OE 351W heads) I left the floors and short side radius alone, except to polish the floors and remove casting flash. Also need to add in the cost of a compressor to feed a die grinder, that's another $200 to $300 at least. It's another slippery slope involved here........................................
Similar threads
