3.73's that much different than 4.10's?
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Dbeck002
New Member
yea 3.27s only take 250 rpms from 3.08s. 3.55s only take 250 rpms from the 3.27s, 3.73s are just 250 rpms away from the 3.55s and so on...
you end up with revving high on the highway, point blank.
I have 3.73s and i dont like driving on the highway with them, they arent practical...
But for speed they are definately useful
you end up with revving high on the highway, point blank.
I have 3.73s and i dont like driving on the highway with them, they arent practical...
But for speed they are definately useful
LXtasy93
Founding Member
You must not have OD. I have 4.10's in both my cars. One AOD and the other 5 speed. I drive on the highway everywhere I go, no problem. Unless you want to go 100mph all the time I don't see where they're impractical in the least.
notchback
Founding Member
the diff in mpg is next to nothing....the diff in performance is awesome,
i would never use anything less than 4.10's ever again
my old notch went 13.20's on 4.10's , long tubes and et streets. stock everything else
i would never use anything less than 4.10's ever again
my old notch went 13.20's on 4.10's , long tubes and et streets. stock everything else
I have a friend that went from 373's to 410's...didn't notice much of a sotp pants difference. You might see a 1/10th or so gain at the track. Don't get fooled by sotp feel anyways...
Let me go ahead and put down my thoughts on selecting on to steep a gear:
I would stick with FMS gears (better production tolerances - less whine/shimming).
Go with 373's or 3:55’s on a daily driver (that is my suggestion)...I'll put some info for your gear selection decision. If your worried about "hurting" anything the 373's will technically be better for you over the 410's...
373’s will be more daily driver friendly and if you get boost/nitrous later you won't run out of gear at the track and you will have less traction problems. Some that have actually had both gears were slower at the track with 410's over 373's and some also claimed no seat of the pants difference.
I run 2400 rpm at 70mph (I have 373's)…the 410’s will run higher closer to the 2600-2700rpm range with the 245/50/16’s I have on my car.
Here is how I look at when picking gears for a daily driver...To me the gearing of 410's or steeper on a daily driver is not worth it to me...you get worse gas mileage/more engine wear/and use your shifting components more (clutch/trans/etc)...around town...and I also look at it like this...when your cruising on the highway at 80mph (interstate) your cruising at roughly 3000rpm with 410's...that is HALF your 302's revving capabilities and that is in the overdrived 5th gear at CRUISE...not at WOT...I personally don't like the idea of having half the engines revving capabilities at just cruise. Also...what if an emergency comes up and you got to "get it"...you have to be there for someone or are running to the hospital...and running higher than 80mph...maybe running 4500rpm steadily (faster than 80mph of course)...during that emergency I don't think that would be a good time for your engine to let go on you...what do you think?
Then you have to factor in 410's or steeper cause my engine braking at higher rpms on the highway...go pull out somewhere and hold your car to 2500rpm or so (worse with gears) and feel the engine try to slow you down when you let off the gas...same similar occurance happens on the highway/interstate plus the wind resistance.
I know when I had the slipping clutch problem I could smell the clutch burn at a higher rpm cruise which in my case was comparing 2000rpm to 2500rpm. At the lower rpm I didn’t smell it but the higher rpm I could smell it. Just some things to think about when you think you want every little tenth out of your car (4:10’s)…I prefer a better overall performance personally…
Go 373's...I would rather want more (373's to 410's) than get to much (410's) and want less (373's)...get what I'm saying?
There will also be less drivetrain shock under traction with 373's over 410's...
The problem with 410's in an AOD is you only have 3 gears to work with at the track (effective gears anyways) and the gears will get you out of those gears quicker and you could lose your gearing powerband at the track.
Also if they were to convert to a t5 (pretty popular actually) then they are "stuck" with the higher revving 410's...I hate the "winding out" sound on the highway with a gear like that...
On the listing of "pros/cons" of a mod like gears. I have stressed that in a couple choice threads, for example on shorty vs. longtube headers. Longtubes will get a better midranging power over the shortys (so the pro is more power) but some forget to mention the cons of it which are buying a matching mid-pipe (more money and aren't able to use the stock mid-pipe) along with ground clearance issues (especially on a lower car) and also the difficulty of install is "stepped up" quite a bit when trying to get longtubes in. It also can cause heat-soak issues and steering column clearance/rubbing issues. The potential purchaser has to ask themself is the extra midrange worth it? Then you get your answer...
So I ask...are the 410's (a tenth or two quicker at track to a matched combo over 373's) worth it? (more engine/drivetrain wear/worse gas mileage/and a couple other "cons" listed above in my post)...again the potential driver/purchaser has got to ask themselves what they want
willys1 (member on this site) actually was slower at the track in his bolt-on car with 410's than he was with 373's...
To often people go "drive" a friend's car with gears and go have fun in the car and don't drive it normally or thing of longterm effects with normal driving. They often just use their SOTP meter to determine what gear they want but when a final gear ratio effects all different parts of you and your car...I think it is best to not try a gear ratio "drag strip style" but "daily driver style"...
I have rode and drove in every car except one with 4:56’s and I see easily how the 4:10’s and especially 4:30’s are overkill for a daily driver. One trip on the interstate will let you know…
Also on the 200rpm difference (I actually think it is a bit more) but to put that into perspective since I ride at 2400rpm at 70mph I run 2600rpm at 80mph but that is a "big" difference in the feel of the car. Just as well you will be even more limited with the 410's pushing nearly 3000rpm just at cruise Every time I drive on the interstate with the 373's I just can't imagine having 4:10's…
Again good luck with your choice
Let me go ahead and put down my thoughts on selecting on to steep a gear:
I would stick with FMS gears (better production tolerances - less whine/shimming).
Go with 373's or 3:55’s on a daily driver (that is my suggestion)...I'll put some info for your gear selection decision. If your worried about "hurting" anything the 373's will technically be better for you over the 410's...
373’s will be more daily driver friendly and if you get boost/nitrous later you won't run out of gear at the track and you will have less traction problems. Some that have actually had both gears were slower at the track with 410's over 373's and some also claimed no seat of the pants difference.
I run 2400 rpm at 70mph (I have 373's)…the 410’s will run higher closer to the 2600-2700rpm range with the 245/50/16’s I have on my car.
Here is how I look at when picking gears for a daily driver...To me the gearing of 410's or steeper on a daily driver is not worth it to me...you get worse gas mileage/more engine wear/and use your shifting components more (clutch/trans/etc)...around town...and I also look at it like this...when your cruising on the highway at 80mph (interstate) your cruising at roughly 3000rpm with 410's...that is HALF your 302's revving capabilities and that is in the overdrived 5th gear at CRUISE...not at WOT...I personally don't like the idea of having half the engines revving capabilities at just cruise. Also...what if an emergency comes up and you got to "get it"...you have to be there for someone or are running to the hospital...and running higher than 80mph...maybe running 4500rpm steadily (faster than 80mph of course)...during that emergency I don't think that would be a good time for your engine to let go on you...what do you think?
Then you have to factor in 410's or steeper cause my engine braking at higher rpms on the highway...go pull out somewhere and hold your car to 2500rpm or so (worse with gears) and feel the engine try to slow you down when you let off the gas...same similar occurance happens on the highway/interstate plus the wind resistance.
I know when I had the slipping clutch problem I could smell the clutch burn at a higher rpm cruise which in my case was comparing 2000rpm to 2500rpm. At the lower rpm I didn’t smell it but the higher rpm I could smell it. Just some things to think about when you think you want every little tenth out of your car (4:10’s)…I prefer a better overall performance personally…
Go 373's...I would rather want more (373's to 410's) than get to much (410's) and want less (373's)...get what I'm saying?
There will also be less drivetrain shock under traction with 373's over 410's...
The problem with 410's in an AOD is you only have 3 gears to work with at the track (effective gears anyways) and the gears will get you out of those gears quicker and you could lose your gearing powerband at the track.
Also if they were to convert to a t5 (pretty popular actually) then they are "stuck" with the higher revving 410's...I hate the "winding out" sound on the highway with a gear like that...
On the listing of "pros/cons" of a mod like gears. I have stressed that in a couple choice threads, for example on shorty vs. longtube headers. Longtubes will get a better midranging power over the shortys (so the pro is more power) but some forget to mention the cons of it which are buying a matching mid-pipe (more money and aren't able to use the stock mid-pipe) along with ground clearance issues (especially on a lower car) and also the difficulty of install is "stepped up" quite a bit when trying to get longtubes in. It also can cause heat-soak issues and steering column clearance/rubbing issues. The potential purchaser has to ask themself is the extra midrange worth it? Then you get your answer...
So I ask...are the 410's (a tenth or two quicker at track to a matched combo over 373's) worth it? (more engine/drivetrain wear/worse gas mileage/and a couple other "cons" listed above in my post)...again the potential driver/purchaser has got to ask themselves what they want
willys1 (member on this site) actually was slower at the track in his bolt-on car with 410's than he was with 373's...
To often people go "drive" a friend's car with gears and go have fun in the car and don't drive it normally or thing of longterm effects with normal driving. They often just use their SOTP meter to determine what gear they want but when a final gear ratio effects all different parts of you and your car...I think it is best to not try a gear ratio "drag strip style" but "daily driver style"...
I have rode and drove in every car except one with 4:56’s and I see easily how the 4:10’s and especially 4:30’s are overkill for a daily driver. One trip on the interstate will let you know…
Also on the 200rpm difference (I actually think it is a bit more) but to put that into perspective since I ride at 2400rpm at 70mph I run 2600rpm at 80mph but that is a "big" difference in the feel of the car. Just as well you will be even more limited with the 410's pushing nearly 3000rpm just at cruise Every time I drive on the interstate with the 373's I just can't imagine having 4:10's…
Again good luck with your choice
I'm in this same dilemma.. I can pick up 4.10's but I actually think it will be slower..
idk... I'm torn between 4.10's and 3.73's myself..
I never do highway driving and the fastest this car will be is probably 60mph consistently.. but I dont want to run out of gear in a normal race..
with 245/50/16's when will the top of 4th gear be for me? at 5600rpm? 120ish?
idk... I'm torn between 4.10's and 3.73's myself..
I never do highway driving and the fastest this car will be is probably 60mph consistently.. but I dont want to run out of gear in a normal race..
with 245/50/16's when will the top of 4th gear be for me? at 5600rpm? 120ish?
i would say 3.73s
and also its not like 373s are going be DOG ASS SLOW and the 410s will plant you in the seat, i doubt there would be much of a difference.
also in my car, the gains were huge. but it only took like 4 days and i was used to the change and i felt the car was slow and yearned for more again.
and also its not like 373s are going be DOG ASS SLOW and the 410s will plant you in the seat, i doubt there would be much of a difference.
also in my car, the gains were huge. but it only took like 4 days and i was used to the change and i felt the car was slow and yearned for more again.
ill advised
Member
IntenseBlue, what do you mean by "cutting out"?
If you go with the 4.10 you'll definitely need to make sure your traction items (tires/suspension)are there. You will be ripping through 1st and second gear like nobody's business, which is why I love it so much.
Seriously though, traction definitely becomes an issue. Once you have that taken care of though it is sweet. I ran a 3.73 for 4 years before my head/cam swap. I moved up to a 4.10 to offset the powerband being shifted up and it is a perfect match. The difference in highway rpms is definitely noticeable but I'm one of those who don't mind it (so was going from a 2.73 to 3.73 but it comes with the territory). My block has 300k on it and still gets the sh1t kicked out of it and begs for more. Especially on an open highway run. 
If you go with the 4.10 you'll definitely need to make sure your traction items (tires/suspension)are there. You will be ripping through 1st and second gear like nobody's business, which is why I love it so much.
Seriously though, traction definitely becomes an issue. Once you have that taken care of though it is sweet. I ran a 3.73 for 4 years before my head/cam swap. I moved up to a 4.10 to offset the powerband being shifted up and it is a perfect match. The difference in highway rpms is definitely noticeable but I'm one of those who don't mind it (so was going from a 2.73 to 3.73 but it comes with the territory). My block has 300k on it and still gets the sh1t kicked out of it and begs for more. Especially on an open highway run. ill advised said:IntenseBlue, what do you mean by "cutting out"?
If you go with the 4.10 you'll definitely need to make sure your traction items (tires/suspension)are there. You will be ripping through 1st and second gear like nobody's business, which is why I love it so much.
I know how they pull. I was referring to stock H/C/I cars when I said that. My buddy Kevin has a coupe with an off-road H and flows along w/ 4.10s and with 25" tall tires, it'll yank 'em sideways in 3rd at 40mph.
, but when he hits around 105, it's like it hits a wall.
Dbeck002
New Member
Maybe its because i put 70 highway miles on her everyday. Sometimes I wish i had 2.73s again so i could cruise at 100 like i used to.
I have the T5 and 1st gear feels kinda short, second is beautiful as is 3rd. 4th is ok too. 3.73s are an awesome gear but not comfy to drive with them day in and day out on the highway.
I have the T5 and 1st gear feels kinda short, second is beautiful as is 3rd. 4th is ok too. 3.73s are an awesome gear but not comfy to drive with them day in and day out on the highway.
