3 part nitrous question

RsStanG1987

I shaved all my pubes playing this game.
10 Year Member
Mar 13, 2004
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Dupont PA
Ok im think about gettting the spray for my car i have a couple of questions before i go out and purchase though..
Question 1 can i run nitrous on a speed density car without coverting to mass air?
Question 2 Would it be wise to run it using street tires,or should i just get drag radials?
Question 3 If i do buy which is better a zex dry kit or a nitrous express dry kit?
Thanks for the help in advance.
 
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1. yes you can run speed density
2. drag radials
3. dont waste time with a dry kit , get a wet kit you wont regret it
4. put atleast a 190lph intake fuel pump in
5. put on an adjustable regulator and crank it up to 40-43 psi when spraying
6. put in colder copper core plugs gapped at .035 (stock heads use autolite 24s)
7. 100 shot or lower keep timing 10-13 degrees
8. 125 shot or bigger keep 10 degrees or lower on timing

have fun with it
 
2002BLGT said:
1. yes you can run speed density
2. drag radials
3. dont waste time with a dry kit , get a wet kit you wont regret it
4. put atleast a 190lph intake fuel pump in
5. put on an adjustable regulator and crank it up to 40-43 psi when spraying
6. put in colder copper core plugs gapped at .035 (stock heads use autolite 24s)
7. 100 shot or lower keep timing 10-13 degrees
8. 125 shot or bigger keep 10 degrees or lower on timing

have fun with it
Exactly what is the difference between a dry and wet kit?
what is a good fuel pressure regulator?
and what is a good brand fuel pump?
 
RYC CUKR said:
dry kits just add nitrous to the engine. A wet kit adds nitrous and fuel as detemined by the jet sizes. Keeps you from ending up lean and blowing up your motor.
Yeah but if i blow my engine thats an excuse to buy a new one :D
 
thats not exactly true the way it was explained.

both add fuel and nitrous, just in a different way.

a wet kit sprays fuel and nitrous through the same jet (if it's a nozzle kit) or through the same plate w/ a spray bar (if it's a plate kit) or through individual nozzles..separate for fuel and nitrous (big shot...high hp app's
direct porting)

a dry kit sprays nitrous only through a nozzle, and adds fuel by spiking the fuel pressure.

there is no need to run an adj. fpr because the kit spikes fp to about 40-42 psi when on the juice.

of cousre , having an adj. fpr is nice to tune...if your running 45 psi all the time your just gonna rich as hell all the time and foul out plugs. a lot of 5.0's tend to run rich from the factory, and you make less power. you actually want to be as lean as you SAFELY can be.


ok w/ that being said....there are pros and cons to both wet and dry kits.

if you plan on spraying 100 or less, just go dry.

if you want to spray 150 or more, go wet, but i don't like the nozzle kits, because you get fuel "puddling" in the intake, the 5.0 is meant to flow air through the intake not fuel.

so you get backfires from a wet nozzle kit since you spray into the upper.

a plate kit that sandwiches between the upper and lower is good to go, because the fuel is spraying into the lower intake.

wet kits take longer to put on take off.....dry kits are a since.

i can do a zex or NOS dry in about an hour and a half.

the zex is the easiest, i have used both but actually prefer the NOS. the edelbrock dry is a direct copy of the NOS , but i haven't used it b4.

the best setup you can have for safety and ease of use, should have a fp safety switch(comes w/ kit..shuts off nitrous if fp drops)

wot switch (comes w/ kit...either tps or micro)

msd (6a or 6al if you like....good to have reliable spark)

msd window switch ( sets the rpm points at which the nitrous will spray...shuts off at upper rpm limit even at wot)

also , i believe the new window switches from msd not only control activation rpm...but work like the tps wot switch.

the zex uses a tps wot switch the NOS and eddy kits use a microswitch and it's not as precise.

ok trying to not make this so long...... your definitely gonna want cheater slicks...radial or not

my vote for ease of use and ease of install is the zex or nos dry kit.
 
notchback said:
thats not exactly true the way it was explained.

both add fuel and nitrous, just in a different way.

a wet kit sprays fuel and nitrous through the same jet (if it's a nozzle kit) or through the same plate w/ a spray bar (if it's a plate kit) or through individual nozzles..separate for fuel and nitrous (big shot...high hp app's
direct porting)

a dry kit sprays nitrous only through a nozzle, and adds fuel by spiking the fuel pressure.

there is no need to run an adj. fpr because the kit spikes fp to about 40-42 psi when on the juice.

of cousre , having an adj. fpr is nice to tune...if your running 45 psi all the time your just gonna rich as hell all the time and foul out plugs. a lot of 5.0's tend to run rich from the factory, and you make less power. you actually want to be as lean as you SAFELY can be.


ok w/ that being said....there are pros and cons to both wet and dry kits.

if you plan on spraying 100 or less, just go dry.

if you want to spray 150 or more, go wet, but i don't like the nozzle kits, because you get fuel "puddling" in the intake, the 5.0 is meant to flow air through the intake not fuel.

so you get backfires from a wet nozzle kit since you spray into the upper.

a plate kit that sandwiches between the upper and lower is good to go, because the fuel is spraying into the lower intake.

wet kits take longer to put on take off.....dry kits are a since.

i can do a zex or NOS dry in about an hour and a half.

the zex is the easiest, i have used both but actually prefer the NOS. the edelbrock dry is a direct copy of the NOS , but i haven't used it b4.

the best setup you can have for safety and ease of use, should have a fp safety switch(comes w/ kit..shuts off nitrous if fp drops)

wot switch (comes w/ kit...either tps or micro)

msd (6a or 6al if you like....good to have reliable spark)

msd window switch ( sets the rpm points at which the nitrous will spray...shuts off at upper rpm limit even at wot)

also , i believe the new window switches from msd not only control activation rpm...but work like the tps wot switch.

the zex uses a tps wot switch the NOS and eddy kits use a microswitch and it's not as precise.

ok trying to not make this so long...... your definitely gonna want cheater slicks...radial or not

my vote for ease of use and ease of install is the zex or nos dry kit.
I was planning on running probabbly a 90 -100 shot. What are cheater slicks are they the same as DR's? Will i have to upgrade my fuel pump? Do i need the window switch for sure. How would this improve my times at the track? I wanna make sure i get everything i need before i make my purchase. I was going to buy the zex kit. Sorry for all the questions i just wanna make sure i get everything i need and get it right the first time around.
 
i think a 50 shot maybe 75 w/ a blower is a good call...depends how much boost though, 6-8 lb kit, do a 100 and it will run awesome.

but if your already making like 9-10 psi i'd stick w/ 50-75...enuff to cool down the blower and add a some ponies.

50-75 would negate some the power lost from heat generated by the blower , so a 50 might be like 75 know what i mean?

as far as the zex kit on rs' car, if your gonna keep it at 75-100 just do the dry kit.

yeah cheater slicks are like dr's.

up until about 6 -7 years ago, the only way you could get a sticky was a slick, or a dot slick (they have some grooves cut to be street legal) but they are all bias-ply

then bfg and nitto made the drag radials, i have never run them, but i just picked up a set of mickey thompson dr's and they feel way superior to the bfg's(i will run them next weekend my new car only has 2.73's and won't really make good use of them)

you have some handling issues if you mix radials and bias ply tires.

you don't have to do anything to spray 100 shot but the basic kit....fuel pump upgrade is a good idea , and the first thing you should do if on a budget, but not totally necessary unless your starting to tax it out already.

if your bone stock, a stock pump will hold up to a 100 shot.

the window switch is also not necessary(i have never used one, too cheap to buy it)

usually 100 shot is good for about 1 second et improvement.

sometimes less, but sometimes more.

i sprayed my 'vert aod w/ 100 shot zex kit and on street tires it went 15.18 NA @ 91 mph and 13.60 spraying @99 mph , i cut 2.0 60's on street tires this was a 'vert lx w/ 3.73's

my old notch on a NOS 75 shot 5-speed 4.10's exhaust , and a little suspension went 13.20's on motor and 12.50's on the nitrous.
this was using either et streets or sportsman pro's

another nice thing that i have never had is a remote bottle opener....you really get tired of having to pop the trunk to turn it on and off, and occasionnaly there is a vette at a light when your shut off, and wants to run you, too bad your out of luck.

bottle heater is a must once it get cools out, pressure on a 3/4 bottle can fall to 600 psi on a cold night.

you want 900-1000 the zex heater is nice w/ no relay or anything.

and you can have a nos kit and zex heater (it's totally separate, you find a hot wire in the trunk, and wire it up. works on a t-stat, turns on when below 75* bottle temp off at 80* or so)

so anyways...to sum it up, the basic zex is good to go, i only had it on my car for about 2 months and 1 trip to the track, but super ez install, and seemed reliable. and you only NEED the basic kit.

btw...w/ 75 jets expect about 10 runs from a bottle
100 jets about 7 runs (full 1/4 mile runs..not stop light blasts)
 
Thanks Man.. Im selling some stuff on ebay this week then i am picking up my kit. Im also gonna get a set of dr's i was gonna get bfgs. Along with that im getting the 6al. Not a bad way to spend a grand.