302 Block

[raleighstang65]

I'm going to go look at a 302 block tomorrow and need some advice on what to look for. I know going in to it that it's striped down and sitting outside (for who knows how long). I emailed the seller and they aren't sure what year it's from but are pretty certain that it hasn't had any machine work done on it (no over bore). They're only asking $95 for it and an engine stand is included. Is it bad that it's been sitting out in the weather for maybe years?
Here's a picture of it:

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/5883/302block.jpg

 

[tx65coupe]

Can they approximate the year car is it out of. Do you want a late model 302 or an early model 302?

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

Obviously after sitting exposed to the elements, it's going to be pretty rusty. Look for pitting on the cylinder walls and lifter bores, since you don't want to pick it up and find out that it's worthless because it would take too much of an overbore to true up the cylinders. If you have an inside micrometer, or access to one, bring it along and mic the cylinders and mains. Also, if you have some sort of straight edge, you could bring it along and check the deck for straightness. If it's tapped in the lifter valley for the spider hold down, chances are it's a late model roller block. If it appears that it would accept a one piece rear main seal, that's also an indication of being a late model block. Aside from that, look for any obvious cracks anywhere along the main webbing. The inconspicuous ones would probably be found after being magnafluxed, if you opted to have that done when getting the block hot tanked/machined.

 

[D.Hearne]

Sitting in the weather on a stand like that is only going to "season" it. Not going to hurt anything. Only if it was something special would I ever pay $95 for it. It would have to be an 86-2001 roller block, a D8VE block or a Mexican block

 

[raleighstang65]

Thanks for the advice guys. Any idea how much it would cost (ballpark) to get it hot tanked and checked for cracks?

D.Hearne does that mean you don't think its worth $95 if it's a standard early model block?

 

[Hack]

Sitting in the weather on a stand like that is only going to "season" it. Not going to hurt anything. Only if it was something special would I ever pay $95 for it. It would have to be an 86-2001 roller block, a D8VE block or a Mexican block

I agree with D.Hearne that even with a $30 engine stand included it isn't worth $95. Maybe $50-70 if everything is in good condition.

Possibly in the south sitting outside like that won't hurt anything, but in my part of the country even sitting inside a garage without a liberal coating of grease the block could get ruined with deep rust. I would check the bores with a fingernail and make sure nothing catches your finger. Also bring something to check and make sure the block has never been bored. If the cylinders are already 0.030" over, pass!

 

[CarFreakGT]

You should be able to determine the year range of the block by checking the casting numbers on it. You can determine the year by the letter/number code on that casting. I'm not at home, so I don't have my chart handy. I'll look for it when I get home. I may be mistaken, but if IIRC off the top of my head, the "E---" blocks are from the 80's.

 

[rbohm]

i agree with DH and hack regarding the price, it is way too high since you can buy rebuildable engines for around $100. if you decide to look at this block, look closely at the rust itself to determine whether it is surface rust or something deeper. surface rust is no big deal. anything deeper though and you should take a pass. as for the price i would offer them no more than $35-40, and if they refuse, then walk away from it.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I too agree about the price. Heck, you can even find running engines for a few hundred. A rusty 302 bare block isn't worth much IMO unless it says "Hecho en Mexico" in the lifter valley.

 

[raleighstang65]

Thanks guys, I think I'm gonna take a pass on this one.