306 solid roller motor, how would you build it?
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the a4 block is stronger than a stock block but what but do you really want to be throwing a crank in there that is capable of more hp than the block? No! I see it as a waste of money having a forged crank in anything other than and aftermarket block. If i were you i would get the h beam 3440 rods but stick with a cast crank
blkcobra50
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- Jul 24, 2006
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95conv5.0 said:
What are your plans and goals with the A4 block? What other parts are you planning on using? App. HP? TQ?
well the a4 block is rated to 800-1000 hp, but im sure the car wont put out much more then 400 or so, its going to be a 306 12-13-1 comp, afr 185s, victor jr intake, in a coupe car weighing it at 2850lbs, and a good amount of suspension work, im looking for a high 9 low 10 sec capability! and shifting at 7500-8200
I don't think Afr 185's are going to be big enough for what you want, to get into the low 10s with a 306 your going to have to have more head,like the 205's and probably turn 7500-8000rpm. Or a 150 shot of juice
Just finishing up a 302 n/a build myself, looking for 6.80s in the eigth. I went with the TFS high ports. For what it's worth, I have a forged crank and light weight I beams in my A4. I wouldnt feel right turning 8000 with a cast crank, and I wanted internal balance. Ask 20 people running low 10's at 8000 rpm what kind of crank they are using, and I bet at least 75% say forged.
Just finishing up a 302 n/a build myself, looking for 6.80s in the eigth. I went with the TFS high ports. For what it's worth, I have a forged crank and light weight I beams in my A4. I wouldnt feel right turning 8000 with a cast crank, and I wanted internal balance. Ask 20 people running low 10's at 8000 rpm what kind of crank they are using, and I bet at least 75% say forged.
25thmustang
Mustang Master
Spinning 8000+ RPM, Id want good parts. That kind of RPM something goes wrong and our looking at a mess of useless junk!
it wont happen! He needs ALOT more head and spinning 8000rpms he is going to have to do a solid roller setup otherwise the hydraulic lifters will be starved for oil around the 6700 mark or so. The afr 185s are already cnc ported out of the box.....they dont get any better!95vert354 said:To go 10.0 in a 2900# car, your going to have to make about 575 hp at the rear wheels. Good luck getting 575hp from a N/A 302 with afr 185's.
it can be done with alot less horsepower with the right suspension!95vert354 said:To go 10.0 in a 2900# car, your going to have to make about 575 hp at the rear wheels. Good luck getting 575hp from a N/A 302 with afr 185's.
but there is only a nominal amount of improvement to be made on them. . . . if you are going to buy some heads and port on them you should go with something that has more potential! Or just get some afr 205s and slap them on out of the box95conv5.0 said:
EMW150
Founding Member
Modular2v said:
Hydro-rollers will go alot higher than you think. My 331 has been together since abou 2001 on the same stock Ford hydro-rollers shifting at 7,600 and sometimes 7,800 rpms. Stock volume oil pump with about 55-60 lbs pressure hot.
EMW150
Founding Member
Modular2v said:
Keep I mind I run the Anderson hi-rev stuff which doesn't have the aggressive style ramps you run into with some custom grounds or like a Comp XE style cam. You can get into trouble if the cam is designed with ultra aggressive ramps. Valve springs are a big deal in mine too. I change them once a year even if they're not floating. That is imperitive to keep you retainers etc in good condition.
EMW150
Founding Member
Modular2v said:
Yeah, you'll want to take car of that quick cause it's probably beating up your valvetrain bad. If you can feel them float they must be pretty extreme. When mine start to go I can't hear it or feel it, I just see it in the ET mph. It'll slowly just start losing mph till I change them then it's right back up. I've already gotten 2 mph back just from a valve spring swap.
