306, Vortech 5psi HELP

nos90gt

New Member
Nov 30, 2003
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Central FL
My buddy has a 302 .30 over afr 185's Vortech 5psi supercharger. 30lbs inj. fuel pressure with vac. line off in 40. Has a 255 fuel pump. FMU. Timing is set to 10' .The car will not idle for ****. TPS is set at .99. Base idle is around 800rpm. Idle starts surgeing up and down then shuts off. Driving the car and coming to a stop the car with die unless giving it some gas then it will smooth out for a min. Any idea's? Does he also need bigger injectors? Maybe 42's? Thanks for any help.
 
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lol welcome to my world bud. I have a 302 and my boost went from 8 psi to 5 psi. Your timing and TPS is all the same as mine. My car idles like ****, but when I am driving I come to a stop it does fine. Mine just does it when the motor is cold. I would try a new idle air control valve on your car. That somes is often overlooked
 
get your base idle setup to 1,000 first off. then you need to get more air through the throttle blades alot of times the increased idle willl help, they make an adjuster that ges in between your IAC and TB and lets you tailor your ible some. as far as injectors are concerned I do not know what camshaft but he is on the verge of 42's. give the IAC a good cleaning also, and work with clocking the MAF sensor a bit. it always helps to get the air filter in the fender to!
 
My buddy has a 302 .30 over afr 185's Vortech 5psi supercharger. 30lbs inj. fuel pressure with vac. line off in 40. Has a 255 fuel pump. FMU. Timing is set to 10' .The car will not idle for ****. TPS is set at .99. Base idle is around 800rpm. Idle starts surgeing up and down then shuts off. Driving the car and coming to a stop the car with die unless giving it some gas then it will smooth out for a min. Any idea's? Does he also need bigger injectors? Maybe 42's? Thanks for any help.

Had this problem on my other lx I sold recently. It had 30s with a c & l meter, and the fmu. Really should take the car to a tuner, and let them put a chip in it. Mine first started out after a restart even when warm, surging, then dying if I didnt give it gas. Later, it got so bad, it didnt want to ever stay running. I played with the tb so much, and everything to try and get it to run, it always kept going back to the same problem, though I could get it to stop for awhile.

When I put my 306 in my coupe, I stole the 30s off the strim hatch, and bought a new meter for the coupe. Then, I took off the c & l meter, sold it, and put the stock meter and injectors back in it. Never got around to messing with it again, cause the coupe needed my attention. I sold the hatch, wasnt running, I think I did mess with the distributer once, along with taking off the upper etc. But, the new owner got it running by just re-doing the dist.. I asked him it runs and idles good? He said it did, so I am guessing it was my crappy c & l meter. Some like them, but had bad experience with mine. I like the pmas on my coupe alot. But every one of them can benefit from a tune. Hope this helps.
 
i'd consider a tune. a blower fanning air into the engine just throws it out of whack compared to what a normally aspirated engine does. and seeing how the car has 30lber on it i would get a tune.
 
Any exhaust or vacumm leaks? If you mix up vacumm hoses this will happen.

The IAC adjuster plate is a bandaid, all it does is cover up a real problem.

As for you may be under injectored, at idle that shouldn't be the issue.
 
please, I just tuned a 306 with an s-trim yesterday (and have tuned 3 almost identical setups with a PMS). I have seen enough blower cars to know that without tuning (not just fuel pressure and timing) they will run rich at idle and have a hard time staying steady.
 
please, I just tuned a 306 with an s-trim yesterday (and have tuned 3 almost identical setups with a PMS). I have seen enough blower cars to know that without tuning (not just fuel pressure and timing) they will run rich at idle and have a hard time staying steady.

And what did people do for the 10 years before the pms existed?
I know, they fixed the car right.
Everyone knows you make the car run right, THEN tune it, not the other way around.
I've seen cars first hand that run fine making in excess of 600rwhp with no issues.
I'll accept the opinion from some of the other guys here that you can make good, even better with a tuner, but i have a hard time accepting that EFI 5.0 mustangs have existed since 1986, and to get it to run right you need a PMS that has only existed for a handful of years.