331 Build - odds and ends Q's - PICS

Hey guys I need some tech help here with certain parts:

Do I use thread sealer or teflon tape when I thread in the oil pressure sending unit into the block? and how much to tighten?

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As seen at the lower right hand of this photo what fitting goes into the lower intake by the coolant pipes and where to?

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As seen in this photo I used those stainless steel bolts (bad idea) on the lower intake. All torqued down to spec in proper sequence but the very front one keeps turning and won't torque down. It's tight in the hole however. Will this be a problem? Did I strip the hole in the head. It's a little late to pull the lower intake now!!!!!

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1. for sending unit i usually use teflon tape and just snug it down good. not sure if there is a specific tightness

2.Not sure what goes there, does it go through the intage or is it blocked off at the botom?

3.How long are your intake bolts, you've either stripped the heads or your bolts aren't long enough .
I hope this helps!
 
If I remember correctly my old intake (don't have it) had a pipe fitting with a small pipe sticking out of it for some type of small hose to go to the intake but I have no idea for what.

I can't remember intake bolt length but when I torqued them down they all clamped down to the specified torque rating (can't remeber right now what it was) without problem. The front one is the last one to be tightened and when I did it kept turning but is tight in the hole. Is there a remedy short of pulling the intake and fixing the head bolt hole???? Do I pull the bolt and take a look to see if I could run a bolt a bit longer?
 
I would say the hole may be for your coolant lines going to your throttle body. I'm not 100% sure on that. My car is at my shop so i cant check it but i know there are coolant lines going to your throttle body, and the hole is right at the collant passage in the head so thats my opinion. And i would try a longer bolt first to see if it will tighten down. When u pull the intake bolt see if there are metal shavings on it or in the hole which is a sign that its stripped. But be careful with those heads, don't wanna screw them up. Oh and by the way the engine looks great. Congratulations!!:nice:
 
what did you torque the lower intake bolts to??
IIRC factory calls for 25 but IMO thats way too much for alum heads, way to easy to strip the holes out. ON ALUM threads, i believe edelbrock heads have all their holes helicoiled out of box to prevent this problem so i am not sure.

and in all honestly i would take it apart and find out the problem. it may suck now but think of how much it would suck to put it in the car and have a water leak, because that bolt is right next to the water port.

its alot alot easier to pull it apart now than it will be later.
 
Thanks on the compliment!

Anyways it sounds like I will end up plugging that hole.


:mad: Now for the bad - I pulled the bolt out and sure enough it looked like there is aluminum between the threads. I put a long bolt in to check, tightened and same thing won't torque down and when I took it out it looked like metal in the threads.

So now what???????

If I pull the intake off will I need new 1250 intake gaskets? And how the heck do I fix the hole? I have a tap and die set so would I just rethread the hole to a larger bolt size? The intake would allow it.....
 
As long as you've got enough metal to retap the hole it should be okay to do that. Its just the one bolt, so I don't think you'd really have a problem w/ one bolt being slightly larger.
 
what did you torque the lower intake bolts to??
IIRC factory calls for 25 but IMO thats way too much for alum heads, way to easy to strip the holes out. ON ALUM threads, i believe edelbrock heads have all their holes helicoiled out of box to prevent this problem so i am not sure.

and in all honestly i would take it apart and find out the problem. it may suck now but think of how much it would suck to put it in the car and have a water leak, because that bolt is right next to the water port.

its alot alot easier to pull it apart now than it will be later.


Well you were definetly right Foxfan88!:nice:

Much to my shigrin I pulled the intake and boy am I glad I did. You're right it's better to fix things right than swear and yell later that all the hard work is down the drain.

My dad came over and gave me a hand. We were able to pull out the heli coil with a pair of needle nose pliers as it was completely stretched. Cleaned out the hole, retapped the threads and put in a new 5/8" helicoil. PERFECT:nice:


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I found out the real reasons for my problems:

1) I was stupid and used a 1/2" long handled torque wrench to torque the bolts to 18 ft lbs. when I should have used inch pounds and coverted. I was not getting a proper torque reading.:stupid:

2) Little did I realize till my Dad pointed it out but the bolts I were using were all the same length. Yet when you look at the lower of my Performer II the 4 corner bolts have a raised surface therefore requiring longer bolts. Without even realizing it I barely had any of the bolt thread pulling down and that's why I pulled the coil.

So am I EVER glad I pulled it and did it properly!:)
 
Another question!

I have a Canton 15620 7qt pan with it's own dipstick. So what can I use other than silicone to plug the factory dipstick hole in the block on the driver's side? Can you buy a cap plug that small? It's about the size of a 3/8 bolt.......what has everyone else used?