351W/408 stroker swap into an 87 GT. Everyone welcome, teach me!

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keep in mind the BBK headers narrow to a 2 1/2 collector opening..where as the Macs have a true 3 inch opening....could get the bbks and cut the collector off and get a true 3 inch and weld it on...seen that done before

as Rick said..with the afr's porting really dosnt have to be done...if you go afr's just worry bout the intake..have that worked on

P.S. i unbolted my Mac LT's from the heads for the tranny swap and geting them back on wasnt that hard..just alittle elbow grease...cant expect everything you do or buy for you car to go on or install easily :rolleyes:
 
I think the BBK 351W swap headers fit like ****, they hit my buddies firewall with a set of Vic Jr's, soild mounts, stock K-member.

Good call on the collector size, I would go larger then 3" if you can. Buy the correct header once and be happy, you can get a set of uncoated Kooks for $550 up to 2.125" primary and 4" collector...worth every penny.
 
Yeah, it's looking more and more like the exhaust is going to choke me. For a MAF, I'll likely get a 75mm Pro-M bullet, and a 75mm Accufab TB. Intake will be the TFS 351W swap intake, with the 90mm TB opening so if I need to upgrade. I'll run 36lb/hr injectors, I have a 255lph pump already, and I'd get some SN95 fuel rails with a new AFPR to replace my current rails/reg. Ignition is covered by my MSD setup, and cooling will be done by a high flow water pump, my brand new 2core radiator, MKVIII electric fan, and 180* Tstat.
 
I'd get a 80mm Pro-M, shorty plastic model so you can make your own or buy a Power pipe and put it in the fender. It is one of the best reading Pro-M meters available and will feed 800hp with out an issue., Go 80mm-90mm on the TB, and a 42# inj minimum.
 
I'd do a 418. My brother just built a 418 and it's figgin' SICK!!

ALL production 351W blocks are 2 bolt main. They never made a 4 bolt 351W factory block. Cleveland, yes. Windsor, no. Roller cam 351W's went into production vehicles in mid-93 (I think, it was the first year of the 1st generation Lightning) and all of the 351W's after that had them. Trucks and vans only got the 351W at that point I think. 351W cop cars were history in 1991 whenthe Crown went to 4.6 V8. There is a casting number that denotes the roller block, but I can not remember what it is. The easiest way to know if it's a factory roller block is to pull a push rod and measure it. Non-roller push rods are way longer than factory roller push rods. Measure a known non-roller pushrod and then if you measure and it's shorter, it's a roller 351. There were only 2 push rod lengths from the factory....roller and non-roller.

High volume oil pumps are a waste on the 351W. They move alot of oil at a real good pressure without creating too much drag on the engine or pump. I've actually seen engines loss HP with high volume pumps. High pressure pumps just aren't needed. My brothers 418 runs at almost 80 psi at 6000 rpm and runs 45 psi at idle with a stock replacement oil pump. That's plenty good.

Good luck! :nice:
 
you should use a 90mm TB...and sell that mac cold air pipe..its to small..keep in mind a 90mm tb has a 4 inch diameter...the averave cold air pipe wont fit it...just make your own powerpipe or if you have the cash by a anderson one
 
Hey guys. I've been thinking over the last few days about a bunch of factors. 1) I want to pick up some power now, not in two years. 2) I don't know shyte about engine building, atleast a bottom end. 3) This is going to cost a hell of alot of money. 4) I don't have room to really build an engine. 5) a 500+ RWHP car may be too much for a daily driven street machine.
I've decided to go back to my previous plan of getting an A trim this fall. I figure that if my engine combo with a blower isn't enough, then I can jump up to either a 331 with the blower or a 351W block. I can handle a blower install in a day, and I know it'll give me a good kick in the pants for power. I really appreciate all the info and help you guys have given me. Thanks a ton!