351W Head bolts

[ForceFed70]

Hi guys,

I'm planning to build a 351W that can handle up to 600hp FWHP max.

Since I plan to make this HP with a turbo, I won't be spinning it too high (6000RPM max).

So my question comes down to head bolts. If this was a 302 I'd definately use ARP or another high quality bolt. But since the 351W's use a larger diameter bolt, is this necessisary? Can I get away with new stock style head bolts? Or even worse, re-use the old head bolts (which appear to be in great shape).

 

[mrmustangman357]

depends on quality of the build. Many use the stock stuff and it works just fine. If you are going through extra expense of premium head gaskets, I would make sure you seal them with ARP head bolts (unless you will have 15+ psi of boost in which case you prolly want to run studs)

 

[bnickel]

well since i know you're planning on running 20psi of boost i'd seriously suggest ARP studs or at least ARP bolts, hell you could probably get away with NEW stock ones if money is tight (when is it not? right?) but definitely don't reuse the originals ones

 

[10secgoal]

Just stud it now rather than look back and be mad you didn't spend the extra 70 bucks. Because if you lift a head later, it will cost you a lot more, even if you can everything yourself.

 

[rbohm]

personally i would go ahead and buy the arp head bolts since you are replacing the bolts anyway.

 

[Rusty67]

I'm going to go a head and jump on the band wagon for ARP studs. I'm going to use them on my 302/5.0.

 

[dennis112]

ARP stud it and forget it.

Extreme case example--Neighbor runs 30lbs boost on his 700hp 4 banger and found that the head needed tighten down after every race or so--using standard ARP studs at the time. He did his research and bought 10 special alloy ARP studs for the princely sum of $1100. That solved the problem.

 

[mrmustangman357]

lol 4 banger not much of an economy car huh?

 

[ForceFed70]

OK, so what's involved with installing studs? Some sort of machine work I assume..

 

[10secgoal]

Nope, no more machine work than normal. They tend do leak if you don't seal them at the deck sometimes. I don't like to. It's a mess to clean up if they come out. If it leaks a little, they usually rust and stop leaking pretty quickly. They are a little more difficult to torque than bolts though. Just have to pay attention more is all though. Studs like to bind.

 

[brianj5600]

351w has blind headbolts. No water leaks.

 

[dennis112]

OK, so what's involved with installing studs? Some sort of machine work I assume..

Just clean the treads in the block and put a little oil on the head stud threads. Tighten them finger tight into the block. Don't snug the studs tight into the block. Install heads and be sure to lube the top stud threads and washers. Torque to recommended specs.

 

[10secgoal]

351w has blind headbolts. No water leaks.

Oh yeah. Durrrr, sorry. Always have 8.2 on the brain.

Didn't have time earlier to explain. Studs bind pretty easy and they can be a pain in the ass. They aren't a simple lube and torque. When you do head studs, sometimes you feel it get tight, and right before you think it'll click, it will get easy again and keep going. It was bound up. You need to back it off and try it again.I've had to do a single stud multiple times before it will torque correctly. You need to make sure its right. If you don't they can click, but not have the clamp force needed to keep the head down correctly. MANY people do studs incorrectly and lift heads.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I would get ARP bolts. I'm not sure how much engine bay room there is in a '70, but it will probably be easier to pull the heads with the engine in the bay if you don't have to lift them all the way over a set of studs. I really doubt you'll be losing gaskets because the bolts can't hold the heads down.

Extreme case example--Neighbor runs 30lbs boost on his 700hp 4 banger and found that the head needed tighten down after every race or so--using standard ARP studs at the time. He did his research and bought 10 special alloy ARP studs for the princely sum of $1100. That solved the problem.

Something similar has been reported by a few in the 2.3 turbo arena. The problem is actually the studs working too well. The straight shank ARP studs don't stretch enough and when the head gets hot and expands, it crushes the head gasket and the studs seem loose. The undercut studs are more elastic and allow enough movement to keep the gasket from getting squashed.

 

[brianj5600]

I have had my heads off in the car with ARP studs. I got a good deal on mine from my machine shop. They were ordered by someone and not picked up. I was going to re-use the stockers. I had good luck on 2 nitrous 302's using stock 7/16" bolt, but luck may be the key word. My budget is not so tight these days so this time around I bought studs. Having a turbo will make changing head gasket a little harder and if having studs saves a gasket or 2, they will more than pay for themselves in sweat and dollars.