3g Alt Voltage Regulator Sense Wire?

[flashback87]

Hey guys,

My amp light has been going on and I think I found the issue. The 14 awg fuse link going to the 2g alternator wires and voltage regulator wire was brittle and broke. So, I soldered in some new wire and my amp light is now off

My question is, can I just bypass the 2g alternator wire since I have a 3g and run the regulator wire straight to the starter solenoid?

If not, what is the best way to rewire this section of wire? you will see in jrichkers diagram below, the wires I'm talking about. I cut the 14 awg fusible link right before the fusible link where it merges into the 2g wires, so I didn't have a lot of wire to solder on to. Do they make fusible links like this where one wire merges into 2?

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks in advance!

 

[flashback87]

Here is a pic of the wires I'm talking about. You will see where I soldered it and why I'm concerned (yellow shrink tubing). I did not have a lot of wire to solder to.

Do I have any better options here? Can I splice in 2 new fusible links for the orange/black 2g wire and sense wire (I think that is what the other black wire is coming out of the union box) and run those to the starter solenoid?

I apologize for the lack of electrical knowledge but any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[jrichker]

The yellow wire can connect directly to the battery side of the starter solenoid as long as you provide a 18 gauge fuse link or a 15 amp inline fuse for it.

 

[flashback87]

The yellow wire can connect directly to the battery side of the starter solenoid as long as you provide a 18 gauge fuse link or a 15 amp inline fuse for it.

I'm a little confused, because in your diagrams there are 3 wires coming off the fusible link (2 2g 10awg wires and 1 yellow sense wire), but in my pictures there is only 2.

Where does the yellow sense wire show up?

Also, if I hook this wire up directly, do I need to keep the 2g alternator wire hook up to the starter solenoid?

Thanks!

 

[jrichker]

The yellow wire and its fuse link are hidden back in the wiring harness past where the 2 black/orange wires connect to the main alternator 14 gauge fuse link. You will have to peel the covering off of the wiring harness to get to it.

The yellow wire with its' fuse link or inline fuse can be directly connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid. At that point you can eliminate the black/orange wires.


Since you have said that you have a low level of proficiency in electrical matters, here's some help before you get started.

Automotive circuits are mostly simple stuff: a power source, a connection path, a control device, a load, and a ground.
The battery/alternator is the positive power source.
The wire and fuses are the connection path.
Control devices are switches, relays and sensors.
A load is a light, motor, solenoid, relay coil or heater element.
In automotive circuits, grounds are the return path so the electrical power can flow from the load to the negative side of the power source.
Electricity flows like water:
Voltage is like pressure,
Current in amps is like volume,
Resistance is like the kink you put in a garden hose to decrease the pressure or volume.
Power is pressure multiplied by volume or voltage multiplied by current (amps)

Digest that, and you just got the first 3 days of Electricity 101.

Use some jumper wires (connection path and ground) to hook up a switch (control device), a battery (power source), a light bulb (load). Now make the light turn on and off with the switch.

That's the electrical lab for the first week of Electricity 101.

For free automotive electrical training, see Automotive Training and Resource Site . I have personally reviewed the material and it is very good. If you are new to automotive electrical troubleshooting, I highly recommend you spend a hour or so going through the material. You'll save at least that much time troubleshooting problems.

 

[flashback87]

The yellow wire and its fuse link are hidden back in the wiring harness past where the 2 black/orange wires connect to the main alternator 14 gauge fuse link. You will have to peel the covering off of the wiring harness to get to it.

The yellow wire with its' fuse link or inline fuse can be directly connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid. At that point you can eliminate the black/orange wires.


Since you have said that you have a low level of proficiency in electrical matters, here's some help before you get started.

Automotive circuits are mostly simple stuff: a power source, a connection path, a control device, a load, and a ground.
The battery/alternator is the positive power source.
The wire and fuses are the connection path.
Control devices are switches, relays and sensors.
A load is a light, motor, solenoid, relay coil or heater element.
In automotive circuits, grounds are the return path so the electrical power can flow from the load to the negative side of the power source.
Electricity flows like water:
Voltage is like pressure,
Current in amps is like volume,
Resistance is like the kink you put in a garden hose to decrease the pressure or volume.
Power is pressure multiplied by volume or voltage multiplied by current (amps)

Digest that, and you just got the first 3 days of Electricity 101.

Use some jumper wires (connection path and ground) to hook up a switch (control device), a battery (power source), a light bulb (load). Now make the light turn on and off with the switch.

That's the electrical lab for the first week of Electricity 101.

For free automotive electrical training, see Automotive Training and Resource Site . I have personally reviewed the material and it is very good. If you are new to automotive electrical troubleshooting, I highly recommend you spend a hour or so going through the material. You'll save at least that much time troubleshooting problems.

Thanks, great info! Is this my best option (running sense wire straight to solenoid) or is there a way I can bypass or replace that union box where the two 2g orsnge/black wires merge into the fusible link?

 

[jrichker]

Thanks, great info! Is this my best option (running sense wire straight to solenoid) or is there a way I can bypass or replace that union box where the two 2g orange/black wires merge into the fusible link?

I'll spare you my instructor rant this time...

It is time to look at the diagrams and apply what you see...

There is no union box, no magical devices, only a wire splice inside the wiring harness to merge the 3 wires together..

 

[Notchnessmonster]

The yellow wire can connect directly to the battery side of the starter solenoid as long as you provide a 18 gauge fuse link or a 15 amp inline fuse for it.

Sorry to hijack but I have a similar question related to alternator - voltage regulator wiring . what should someone do if they don’t have a starter solenoid? Took me two starters to realize it was missing so I added a 200amp starter relay into the fender with a buss bar. That is my starter solenoid essentially. Can I tie my alternator ignition switch wire (g/r) into the signal wire that goes to my starter or do I need to run it all the way back to the relay within the fender? My alternator power goes directly to battery right now and I intend to relocate it to the buss bar in fender during Holley terminator x install. I added a picture of how my starter relay is wired in my fender. Currently. My alternator voltage regulator wiring has the yellow wire from D connector, looping back to the main post on the alt with a 16-18 gauge fuselink to ring terminal. My green/red wire runs along the lower frame rail with the main power cable and eventually merges into a baby blue connector near driver side shock tower.

https://www.foxstang.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/foxstang-mini-starter-relay-suggestion.png

 

[General karthief]

Sorry to hijack but I have a similar question related to alternator - voltage regulator wiring . what should someone do if they don’t have a starter solenoid? Took me two starters to realize it was missing so I added a 200amp starter relay into the fender with a buss bar. That is my starter solenoid essentially. Can I tie my alternator ignition switch wire (g/r) into the signal wire that goes to my starter or do I need to run it all the way back to the relay within the fender? My alternator power goes directly to battery right now and I intend to relocate it to the buss bar in fender during Holley terminator x install. I added a picture of how my starter relay is wired in my fender. Currently. My alternator voltage regulator wiring has the yellow wire from D connector, looping back to the main post on the alt with a 16-18 gauge fuselink to ring terminal. My green/red wire runs along the lower frame rail with the main power cable and eventually merges into a baby blue connector near driver side shock tower.

https://www.foxstang.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/foxstang-mini-starter-relay-suggestion.png

Start another thread with this problem giving more info on your setup, year, model and upgrades/modifications.

 

[Notchnessmonster]

Start another thread with this problem giving more info on your setup, year, model and upgrades/modifications.

im asking a pretty basic question and it seems to relate to the 6 year old discussion happening in this thread. Isn’t it annoying when there are 10,000 threads asking the same general questions about a specific issue. Otherwise they may as well expire with time and the comment section should close so nobody else asks questions in a relatable thread. I thought my question was pretty basic. When you delete a starter solenoid and replace with a starter relay, does the alt voltage regulator Ign wire (grn) goto the switch on relay or to buss bar. If I can’t get an answer based on the information I provided then I’ll figure it out. This post is 6 years old and We’re talking about mustangs and 3G alternators. I don’t think my Frankenstein car details are going to help clarify much in this situation.

 

[General karthief]

Well excuse me for try'n to help out, you seem to know your way around so carry on.
Someone may be with you in a minute.

 

[jrichker]

im asking a pretty basic question and it seems to relate to the 6 year old discussion happening in this thread. Isn’t it annoying when there are 10,000 threads asking the same general questions about a specific issue. Otherwise they may as well expire with time and the comment section should close so nobody else asks questions in a relatable thread. I thought my question was pretty basic. When you delete a starter solenoid and replace with a starter relay, does the alt voltage regulator Ign wire (grn) goto the switch on relay or to buss bar. If I can’t get an answer based on the information I provided then I’ll figure it out. This post is 6 years old and We’re talking about mustangs and 3G alternators. I don’t think my Frankenstein car details are going to help clarify much in this situation.

Evidently you didn't look very closely at the diagram - the main connection for the yellow wire after the alternator is the wiring connection that goes directly to the battery positive terminal. On a Fox body Mustang that is the battery side positive terminal connection of the starter solenoid

"The yellow wire can connect directly to the battery side of the starter solenoid as long as you provide a 18 gauge fuse link or a 15 amp inline fuse for it."