3G Alternator & Idle Problems

[THC420]

those 2 wires are for the voltage regulator.

 

[RYC CUKR]

Figured I would throw my 2 cents in since I just put a 3G in my 93.

The #4 gauge wire goes from the stud on the back of the alternator to the starter relay. Same post on the starter relay as the positive battery cable.

At the alternator take the two BK/OR wires and cap them off and tuck them away. My prefered method is to get some heatshrink and put over the cut ends of the wires.

The W/BK wire goes to the stator plug.

If memory serves me right the Y/W wire is for the voltage regulator, it ties in with the BK/OR in the harness back at the starter relay. This is why you need to leave the BK/OR wire connected at the starter relay. The GN/R goes to the instrument cluster

BK-Black
W-White
OR-Orange
GN-Green
Y-Yellow

Also,

Take a #4 gauge cable from where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine and run it to where the ground pigtail from the negative battery cable attaches to the body of the car. It should be right in the battery area. I used a 40" starter cable from the local auto parts store for this.

 

[04sleeper]

If you hook up the 4 gauge wire to the starter solenoid then the only other wire you really need to run is the green/red wire with the new conversion plug.

Thats what I did. Like this.
View attachment 498699
The yellow wire gets hooked up on the same post with the 4 gauge wire on the back of the alternator. The white/black stripe wire is hooked up in the middle, and the green/red wire gets hooked up to the only wire left on the conversion plug.

 

[Skoobie]

This post is getting very detailed The only discrepency I've found is 89 Sleeper says to connect the yellow wire to the stud. Is this something that everyone else failed to mention? It seems that if a 10g wire is in danger of burning up from the new alt that the little yellow wire would go up like a match stick is that amprage was run through it

 

[04sleeper]

This post is getting very detailed The only discrepency I've found is 89 Sleeper says to connect the yellow wire to the stud. Is this something that everyone else failed to mention? It seems that if a 10g wire is in danger of burning up from the new alt that the little yellow wire would go up like a match stick is that amprage was run through it

The yellow wire comes from the other plug. It just uses the stud as a power source. It DOES NOT replace the 4 gauge wire. The 4 gauge wire still goes from the stud to the starter solenoid.

 

[HISSIN50]

I think the yellow wire is for switch and sense, which is what I mentioned before (post 15 or so).

Good luck and nice pic Kevin!

 

[Skoobie]

Ok install take 2! Finished upgrading the wiring and introducing the fuse. Fire crisis averted...I hope. The charge is WAY up from what it use to be. Stays 2-3 clicks above the charge point at running temp and only dips a click-click 1/2 with all accesories on including the stereo. :SNSign: Although I think I need to reset my idle. I have FMS idle plate attached to the IAC that I monkey'd with relentlessly trying to fix the surge problem...it may be a little off. The idle likes to hang at around 1500-1600 RPM before settling down to 1000, then eventually 800-900 if I let it sit long enough. Tends to bounce around a little as well. I'll let you know the final verdict once I get it all reset. Anyway here are a couple pics of the final install!

 

[04sleeper]

I was looking at your picture and noticed that you do not have the lug on the power wire covered with anything. I would try to cover the lug as far as you can with heat shrink tubing, and protect the back of that stud so it doesn't hit anything and ground out.
Remember that wire is live.
View attachment 497064

 

[Skoobie]

Ehh I dont have a butane torch for the shrink wrap. I'll just tape it up a little better. Can anyone post a pic of the location of the ground that needs to be upgraded? Im assuming we're not talking about the ground that comes off the starter silinoid??

 

[HISSIN50]

I think the motor ground is what is being mentioned.

You can use a cigarette lighter for shrink wrap - it is not pretty or great, but it works. The wrap I used (from Parts Express - I got it when I ordered wiring upgrade parts since I did not have any that large on hand) fits just over the eyelet and yet still shrinks nice and tight.

Or Harbor Freight sells heat guns for shrink wrap for like 10 bucks (I dont have one so I cant give a review). You really want to shrink wrap those - otherwise the tape tends to unwrap after some heat cycles (and it gets gooey).

Good luck.

 

[8950HO]

Did those lugs on the 4ga cable come already attatched or did you crimp them yourself,properly of course,not in a vise?

 

[04sleeper]

The best way is to use a torch and use a little flux to clean the lug, the fill it up with solder and stick the wire in and let it cool. Thats what I did and it worked great. Crimping it does not get as good of a connection.

This is the ground I added. 1/0 gauge wire to the block.
View attachment 497008

Then I ran the wires in the fender to clean up the engine bay and hooked it up on the back side.

 

[HISSIN50]

Kevin, those pics are getting a workout.

 

[04sleeper]

That must be a good thing. :SNSign:

 

[Skoobie]

Wow...thats ummm...a big wire you got there... Does it matter where you attach it to the block?

 

[04sleeper]

I just used the bolt for the bracket that holds the starter wire.

 

[jrichker]

Skoobie, looks like a nice job with the wiring.

89Ssleeper. nice job on the ground.

 

[Skoobie]

Did those lugs on the 4ga cable come already attatched or did you crimp them yourself,properly of course,not in a vise?

I just purchased the wire at Home Depot off their huge spindle then attached the terminals myself using a crimper. I dont have a soldering (sp?) iron.

 

[8950HO]

The best way is to use a torch and use a little flux to clean the lug, the fill it up with solder and stick the wire in and let it cool. Thats what I did and it worked great. Crimping it does not get as good of a connection.

Actually the manufacturers of the battery cable eyelets recommend crimping,using a professional heavy duty crimper instead of soldering.

Soldering is a pita and the connection is not as good and the resistance is probably higher using solder.

Those heavy duty crimpers crimp the wire so tightly that there is no air space between the wires resulting in a solid copper to copper connection.

 

[04sleeper]

Actually the manufacturers of the battery cable eyelets recommend crimping,using a professional heavy duty crimper instead of soldering.

Soldering is a pita and the connection is not as good and the resistance is probably higher using solder.

Those heavy duty crimpers crimp the wire so tightly that there is no air space between the wires resulting in a solid copper to copper connection.

Soldering was very easy for me.

That may be true but I don't have a professional heavy duty crimper and I don't think most people do. Thats why I suggested soldering. I have tried to crimp those lugs before and it wasn't a very good connection. I would not trust it.

If you have access to one then go ahead and use it.