3G Conversion help

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Tuning' started by Carb'dCobra, Oct 23, 2006.

  1. Carb'dCobra New Member

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    Hey guys. A while back I did the 3G Alternator conversion, since I had been having trouble with my charging system. If you'll look back I used to complain on here alot when I used the name "ZephyrMotorspor". Anyway, I finally figured out that I was losing voltage in all the dead ends in hot wires I had... since I had no radio, a/c control, heater impeller, etc, I decided to do away with the fuse block, and all original wiring harnesses altogether. I branded my new harness the "Painful Performance" wiring harness, since I did it myself with zip ties and 100ft or Discount Auto 14ga wire :). Anyway, I have brakelights, runnings lights, etc. (and don't worry it's all fused), but now there's no fuse block, I dunno how to wire the three A,S, and I wires coming off the alternator....
    Originally as told by the instructions I read online, you connect the white/black(S) wire to the spade on the alternator (which I later learned from Jamie at Blue Oval Corral that that spade was nothing more than a diode for an idiot light)... but anyway, then I had connected the A and I wires together up by the solenoid and just plopped'em on the 12V constant post. I had 14V finally (at idle). However next morning I found out that my battery was dead. I figured something happened with me putting those on the solenoid, so I took them off and experimented, basing on a Haynes manual. I took the "I" wire to my master switch inside the cockpit, and took the A wire to the battery. After charging my battery at Discount, my buddy and I decide to head over to Albertsons across the street. I rev up to exit the Discount parking lot and hear a loud shrieking sound. I then pulled in to Albertson's, took the hood off and discovered the sound was eminating from my alternator case... I went and got my voltmeter and read 17V at idle, 18.5V at 2000rpm... needless to say I was horrified, and moreso when I saw a nice pool of sulfuric acid sitting atop my battery case that had not been there five minutes ago.
    Thats my story so far, I just need some help on where each of the I, S, and A wires end, and If I should install an idiot light on the diode just for an idiot like myself? Until then the alternator puts out only 12V at idle and above.
    Specifics:
    From the main alternator post on the back, a 4ga wire runs to the solenoid
    Currently, the I wire runs to the solenoid, the A wire runs to the spade on the diode, and the S wire connects to my master switch in the cockpit.
    Please help.
  2. Carb'dCobra New Member

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    Nevermind guys, I forgot that when I installed the alternator I also put an overdrive pulley on. I also did some more talking with the guys at BOC in St Pete, did some more rewiring and I'm now getting (thats with nothing drawing on the battery but the fuel pump) 16.5-16.9V idling and 17-17.3 running amps and no more horrifying screeching noise from the alternator case, so it's not overworking it to death. It was suggested that I also relocated my battery to the back... again, and buy and Optima red top. So if anyone is doing a 86/93 4bbl swap that is also thinking about doing their own fuse box, etc. I can aid in any wiring troubles, 'cause Lord knows I've been through'em all.

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