3G Install gone wrong??

[StreetStang37]

Ok, did the install of my NEW 3G 160 AMP alternator from Alterstart to replace my 140 Amp PowerMaster since it pretty much crapped out on me. Ive been a week without my car, so I had to just do the install already. I did all the wiring (am I supposed to do anything with the old black/orange wires from the old wiring harness??) except I used the 6 ga. wire from the alt to the battery from my old powermaster.

apperantely it takes over a week to recieve my 4 ga. wire from PA Performance
PA Performance gets a big fat

well anyways, when I start the car the belt screetches bad, and it takes a while for it to go away. atleast, for a while. then whenever I turn on the lights, put my windows down, use a turn signal or my electric fan comes on the voltage drops considerably and the screetching comes back with a vengance and it basically wont charge untill I turn off whatever is on (electronically) at the time. when the screetching starts you can see the belt tighten up pretty good, but the tensioner is still in the normal range. so, what can it be?

btw, I reversed my tensioner, that may be the root of the problem. but I cant reverse it back since I no longer have the a/c or the brackets from that side of the motor . If i get an ac delete kit, do I even need those brackets or does the ac delete kit replace it pretty much? also, I always see cars on MM&FF with a manual belt tensioner, kinda like the older cars where you use the alternator and slide it sideways to tension the belt. where can I get that if I need that as an alternative?

 

[PRO50SC]

The belt is probably not tight enough, hence the squeal. You might try March's pulleys and tensioners and see if you can get one of their tensioners you are talking about too work.

 

[ponycrazy]

With my 3G Alt I had to use a 1/2 inch shoter than stock belt to work with my underdrive pullies.

 

[StreetStang37]

With my 3G Alt I had to use a 1/2 inch shoter than stock belt to work with my underdrive pullies.

would that matter since its still within the safe zone on the belt tensioner? also, btw, im only runnin water pump, crank and alt.

 

[Maryland Stang]

It takes a lot of power to turn an oversized alternator especially when it has a load. Make sure the belt has the tension that 3G is calling for. If it does then look at the pullies and the belt. Have you tried spraying a little belt dressing on the belt? An underdrive (oversized) alternator pulley may help.

 

[PRO50SC]

Don't spray belt dressing on the belt. It doesn't work and it makes a big mess!!!

 

[SwAmPf0x]

Probably not enough belt/pulley contact, you have a picture of your belt routing? you might try a different route if possible to get more belt on the alt pulley

 

[Tstang90]

Well PA performance had my parts here in 3 days. Maybe cause they ship ground and your in CA is there time dealy in you recieving shipment. But they do send you a tracking #. I have used PA performnce for several items and even used them like 2 weeks ago. I think there top notch. But there upgrade wiring kit is a MUST

 

[Mustang5L5]

As for the two orange/black wires....

On the alternator end, just cut them back and tape up the ends and tuck em out of the way.

On the starter solenoid side...leave them connected! The voltage regulator circuit ties into them and get it's power from them. If you remove them completely you will have problems


Also, the 3G pulley is HUGE. That's what is making your belt shriek. It's also larger than most underdrive alt pulleys. When i did mine, i took the HUGE pulley off and put the stock 2G pulley back on. It will require a washer behind it but a trip to home depot solved that.

I now run underdrive pulleys so i upgraded my alt pulley to an ASP OVERDRIVE pulley which is 1 7/8. I have a lot of high draw accessories and an AOD so i need good voltage when sitting in traffic idling at 700RPM

 

[gaslight]

my vote is for the belt slipping.

 

[PRO50SC]

Ok, did the install of my NEW 3G 160 AMP alternator from Alterstart to replace my 140 Amp PowerMaster since it pretty much crapped out on me. Ive been a week without my car, so I had to just do the install already. I did all the wiring (am I supposed to do anything with the old black/orange wires from the old wiring harness??) except I used the 6 ga. wire from the alt to the battery from my old powermaster.

apperantely it takes over a week to recieve my 4 ga. wire from PA Performance
PA Performance gets a big fat

well anyways, when I start the car the belt screetches bad, and it takes a while for it to go away. atleast, for a while. then whenever I turn on the lights, put my windows down, use a turn signal or my electric fan comes on the voltage drops considerably and the screetching comes back with a vengance and it basically wont charge untill I turn off whatever is on (electronically) at the time. when the screetching starts you can see the belt tighten up pretty good, but the tensioner is still in the normal range. so, what can it be?

btw, I reversed my tensioner, that may be the root of the problem. but I cant reverse it back since I no longer have the a/c or the brackets from that side of the motor . If i get an ac delete kit, do I even need those brackets or does the ac delete kit replace it pretty much? also, I always see cars on MM&FF with a manual belt tensioner, kinda like the older cars where you use the alternator and slide it sideways to tension the belt. where can I get that if I need that as an alternative?

The old feed wires are supposed to be reused. My 3g kit came with terminal ends to put on those wires so they could be connected along with the 4 gauge wire.

 

[StreetStang37]

anybody else do this?

 

[jrichker]

The old feed wires are supposed to be reused. My 3g kit came with terminal ends to put on those wires so they could be connected along with the 4 gauge wire.

No. The only feed wire from the new alt should be the fused 4 gauge wire. If the fuse blows, the old wiring will be left in place and try to carry the 150 + amps that blew the fuse. Instant smoke and fire...

 

[Cue-Ball]

No. The only feed wire from the new alt should be the fused 4 gauge wire. If the fuse blows, the old wiring will be left in place and try to carry the 150 + amps that blew the fuse. Instant smoke and fire...

This is correct. It does no good to fuse a wire and then have a bypass around the fuse. People make hooking up the 3G WAAAAAY harder than it needs to be. When i wired up my second car i simply used a vampire tap for the white/black wire and ran the 4ga fused wire. That was it. I didn't cut off the old wires or the old connector. They're still on there so if i ever NEED to hook up a stock Mustang alternator (for instance, if i'm stranded on the side of the road) i can.

 

[jason89gt]

3 g

what would cause vibrations from the alternator only when it is warm when the dual cooling fans kick on? i can manually turn the fans on when the car is cold and no problem at all, but when it warms up i sound like the alt bearings are going out! tried 2 reman units about to try third!!!please help

 

[TC93]

This is correct. It does no good to fuse a wire and then have a bypass around the fuse. People make hooking up the 3G WAAAAAY harder than it needs to be. When i wired up my second car i simply used a vampire tap for the white/black wire and ran the 4ga fused wire. That was it. I didn't cut off the old wires or the old connector. They're still on there so if i ever NEED to hook up a stock Mustang alternator (for instance, if i'm stranded on the side of the road) i can.

I also left all the origianl plugs in place when I installed my 3G.. I ran 2g (had some laying around) wire with a fuse and spliced in the blk/white wir with a new plug. I was thinking the same thing, if I ever have to put the stock alt back on for any reason, they would be there. Here is a link to my install... 3G altenator install