3G Powerwire help! Previous owner installed wrong PICS!

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well it could be caused from a few things, but i did notice it looks like they re attatched the black and oranges which i think we have came to the conclusion that is a NO NO!

you want a 4ga power wire going from the back of the alt lug, to a 150 plus amp fuse holder, and from there it goes to the positive post on your starter selenoid.

disconnect those black and oranges from the alt and cap them off individually and let them hang or tie them back, then replace your 4 g if it's melted with new 4g and an in line fuse.

always check all the other wires in that harness to see if any of them have been melted and replace accordingly.

that harness has someother wires of need. one of them is a green wire that goes to your bat light, the other one is a yellow wire that joins to the black and oranges, that turn into another green wire that connects to the starter selenoid positive side.

you may have to remove that harness to check to see how bad it is.. you should probably just buy the 3g conversion plug, keep the green wire in the harness that goes to the battery light and scrap the rest.....but for now, check to see what other wires are melted if any and disconnect those black and oranges and get a fuse on there....

also, here's a wiring diagram, courtesy of tmoss, it shows how the stock wires go so the above makes better sense. sorry for the size of the diagram, it gets distorted if i reduce it too much so i left it alone.....
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but from what it looks like he had no power wire there? i have to go look at it again...

ok so take off the black and orange and put connectors on them and do the same with the powerwire... and then bolt it to the back of the alt? and in the middle of the powerwire install a inline fuse... anyone hav any pics??
 
Do a search for one of the many alternator upgrade threads - Jrichker and Srothfuss have some very good info and links in both of theirs.
You will omit most of the articles' info except for the power cable part.

Summit used to sell a nice cable with a fuse but they seem to have discontinued it. You can piece something together using the info from JRichker and others.

Simply stated, just remove those orange/blk wires at the back of the alternator and insulate them really good. Then run the new 4 AWG cable from the solenoid to the back of the alt, where those two wires used to be on the stud.

Good luck.
 
those black and orange wires are the original power wire for the old 2g alt. they were too small of wire for that even let alone 130 amp alt. old articles used to suggest re connecting them along side the new 4g power wire, but i think it's been determined do not re connect the black and orange, only the 4ga wire.

when he said insulate he means make sure the ends of the wires arent touching anything.....you do need to make sure they havent melted into any other wires as like i said there are a couple of other wires in that harness.
 
ok guys i got it! im gonna check out all the wires... geez i owned this car for a year and didnt think to look... i wonder how long he ran it like this before me? i think its a 130amp alt... there is yellow writing on the side real faint says 130amp i think... gonna fix this as soon as possible!
 
Jaswir, a 150 amp fuse is probably more appropriate for a 130 amp alt with 4 AWG cable (if the place you buy one has both). JMO.
 
Things are probably fine with your car. I ran mine for quite some time with the stock power and ground wires :rolleyes: . You may notice your idle even out when you upgrade your grounds though. On that note, be sure to ADD an additional ground from where your negitive battery cable attaches to the block to the fenderwell. This is also required for the 3G upgrade
 
freshstang said:
so the green and yellow wires DO NOT need to have a lower gauge wire ran? just the black and orange wires need to get bigger??
You are correct. Only the black/orange wires need to be supplimented with a single 4 gauge wire.

Parts list:
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

Your local auto stereo/radio shop can supply most of the parts, but they will be more expensive for the same quality parts.