3G upgrade *visual help*

[93GTosu]

Before i go nuts and make a mistake on all of this...lets just clarify what i'm about to do on my 3g alternator upgrade:

Most of the pictures in the threads im reading have "red X's" but this is how i'm interpreting everything based on the reading out there.

is that even remotely close?

-Both my wires (red and thick black are 4 gauge)
-Are my wires starting/ending in the right places?

I can take criticism, so lemme have it...

 

[HISSIN50]

FWIW, Mustang Central has a lot of pics on their site (I'm also a picture-oriented person). Then Jrichker's alternator synopsis is as precise as it gets.

Your set-up looks good to me. On your solenoid picture, my starter cable is on the side where your cable is attached (just be sure to get the cable on the battery stud of the solenoid).

I might consider a 125 amp fuse.

And if you remove the stock charge cable, redo the sense wire (loop it to the charge cable, run a new wire or dig the old one out and reattach it).

That's all I can think of.

Good luck.

 

[BK_CAULEY]

and as for the spliced wires, Use anything that only has power when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Be sure to use a low current fuse (1-3 amp) in the lt green/red wire. Under the hood of a EFI 5.0 Mustang, the ignition coil red/lt/green wire or any solid color red wire is a good choice.

 

[HISSIN50]

The I terminal wire should have a 500 ohm Resistor in it. Even the retrofit harnesses have this resistor in them.

 

[Shakerhood]

and as for the spliced wires, Use anything that only has power when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Be sure to use a low current fuse (1-3 amp) in the lt green/red wire. Under the hood of a EFI 5.0 Mustang, the ignition coil red/lt/green wire or any solid color red wire is a good choice.

Why do you have the Yellow/White Wire hooked up along with the Charge Cable?

 

[HISSIN50]

Why do you have the Yellow/White Wire hooked up along with the Charge Cable?

The point of the circuit is to remotely check system voltage with regard to voltage drop. The alt can be putting out 14.6 volts but if the charge cable is dropping .75 volts, this remote sense wire sees this and will adjust the alt output to accomodate this.

The looping of this wire (from the A terminal to the charge stud) works as long as the charge cable is in impeccable shape.

It just makes for a cleaner install (one less wire).

 

[Shakerhood]

I thought the Reason you leave the old harness in the car was for the "Sense Wire" even though you would not be splicing the Orange/Black Wires together and hooking them up in conjunction with the new Power Cable?

 

[HISSIN50]

I thought the Reason you leave the old harness in the car was for the "Sense Wire" even though you would not be splicing the Orange/Black Wires together and hooking them up in conjunction with the new Power Cable?

It is. Some folks peel the sense (A terminal) wire out of the OEM harness and connect it directly to the solenoid. Most of us are too lazy and just leave the whole OEM harness on the solenoid.

With the loop as depicted above, you can rip out the OEM harness because you have circumvented the OEM remote sense wire.

 

[Shakerhood]

It is. Some folks peel the sense (A terminal) wire out of the OEM harness and connect it directly to the solenoid. Most of us are too lazy and just leave the whole OEM harness on the solenoid.

With the loop as depicted above, you can rip out the OEM harness because you have circumvented the OEM remote sense wire.

OK it makes "Sense" now, LOL!