Does this exist? I am going to be rolling white ponies for the winter, but I kinda like to look of them so I may keep them on. But I hate the way drum brakes look. I was going to switch to 5 lug for the purpose of having disc brakes in the back. But now I want to stay with white ponies. Is there a such thing as 4 lug disc brakes? I never seen it before but it could exist. I guess I could always buy some 5 lug white cobras...
4 lug disc brakes?
- Thread starter webshot
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Baer sells a rear kit, along with SSBC. They also have a front kit that fits under a pony rim (12" rotor + caliper) that would be nice.
Also, northracecars has some rear disk kits....
Also, northracecars has some rear disk kits....
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
The large benifit is the safety factor of having the extra stud / lugnut holding the wheel in place if something is to go wrong (say at the track.) Outside of that, the switch is mainly driven by a want for different rims.
http://www.northracecars.com/catalog/brakes/brakes.htm
ABout halfway down is the brackets you'll need to run the rear disks.
You can use your stock axles with those brackets. You'll need to pick up the rest of the parts.
The kit is $550ish and you still need to pick up the '93 Cobra Master Cylinder, booster and aftermarket prop valve
Your the money you will spend, you can go 5-lug and upgrade your brakes.
If you like the pony wheels, you can get them here in 5-lug and 17"
http://www.ponyr.com/
ABout halfway down is the brackets you'll need to run the rear disks.
You can use your stock axles with those brackets. You'll need to pick up the rest of the parts.
The kit is $550ish and you still need to pick up the '93 Cobra Master Cylinder, booster and aftermarket prop valve
Your the money you will spend, you can go 5-lug and upgrade your brakes.
If you like the pony wheels, you can get them here in 5-lug and 17"
http://www.ponyr.com/
Do the 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear end swap!
Auto trans 87-88 Tbird Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving. Both ratios have 10 “ disk brakes with vented rotors as standard equipment.
It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.
You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.
You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.
You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.
Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 to get the braking performance up to par.
Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.
See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake - the stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.
All in all I have been very pleased with the results.
Auto trans 87-88 Tbird Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving. Both ratios have 10 “ disk brakes with vented rotors as standard equipment.
It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.
You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.
You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.
You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.
Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 to get the braking performance up to par.
Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.
See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake - the stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.
All in all I have been very pleased with the results.
Similar threads
