400RWHP + 20MPG... How to do it??

MeanMussy

Founding Member
May 25, 2000
581
0
17
Louisville, KY
Here's what I'm looking for. I want to build a motor that puts down ~400RWHP (~500HP at the crank), can pull down +20MPG, and will run all day long.

Please notice that I am asking HOW, not IF this can be done. I've spent the past two days searching, and most of the replies just criticize why someone would want this. This questions has to do w/ engineering, not motivation. So please refrain from any comments along the lines of "you can't have your cake and eat it too" or "v8s and gas mileage don't go together". Thanks.

Back to my goals.. The HP number can be an "on demand" value.. I.e. nitrous. I'm fine with that, as long as I can make it when I need to. The 20mpg number is the minimum that I'm looking for when cruising the highway. I would like ask for 25mpg, but I'll set the bar a little lower. I understand that in town mileage will be lower, and I'm ok with that. I'm also looking for a motor that I can rely on. I don't want to worry about splitting a block going down the strip.

OK, so here's what I'm starting with. My car is currently a 302, just the way Ford made it, hasn't been touched. The rest of the car has been. I've been prepping for a 351W stroker swap. But with gas prices going way they are, I've had to rethink that plan. The all out, brute HP attack isn't going to work, I want a more intelligent build than that. The car has 3.73s (which I can change... a 5 lug conversion might be on it's way), new suspension on all corners (more of a road race suspension), subframes, TKO 5spd, SPEC clutch... I think that's about it. I also have a TwEECer at my disposal, although I haven't played with it much (I have one calibration that gives me a 2750rpm idle for launching at the track.. :) )

So here is my train of thought. I want to keep the motor CID small, to help mileage. That brings me to a 302 based motor (306/331/347). I'll probably put it in a Dart or R302 block to remove worries of splitting the stock 302 block. Preference right now is a DSS 331... But I could be talked out of that quickly. That is about as far as I've made it though...

I'm guessing that these are unrealistic HP numbers for NA + CID. Nitrous looks really nice, for the ability to make the power, with out always chuggin the gas. But, I think I will disappoint myself, spending a ton of cash, and not having all the power there, under my foot, on my daily drive to work. So, a turbo or two might be what I'm looking at. I'm guessing, that keeping out of it on the highway, I can see the mpg numbers I'm looking for, but still be able to spool it up when I want. I would rather have and auto for tubas, but the "fun factor" of the stick is too much. And I'm guessing the turbos will give me the TQ that I LOVE, the same as a NA 408W would have. And there is a possibility to go to a T56 too to cut down the highway revs. I wouldn't be looking at anything too crazy for heads, maybe AFR 185s (the AFR band wagon is still ridding well). And for sure EFI. I'm guessing w/ the TwEECer, I can have an ultra lean setting for mileage on the highway, and a balls out 2mpg setting for the strip.

Cliff notes: Does (331 + Dart block + boost/nitrous + TwEECer) = (400RWHP + 20MPG + reliability)????

So, those in the know... what do you say? HOW can I make this happen?? Anyone out there done this already? Lets hear it....

Thanks,
DJ
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Please read the entire post...
Please notice that I am asking HOW, not IF this can be done.
Foxfan88 said:
performance and fuel economy cannot coexist

The fact is, yes they can (i.e. Vettes, Cobra, etc). It just matters what technology you toss at it.

I just have to figure out how to get it out of what I have to work with. I may miss my goals a little, but that's what I'm shooting for.
 
you should be able to do that with a basic turbo setup. I don't dobt it at all.

if you biuld up the block to take the pressure, and a very conservative if not near stock heads/cam/intake. when biulding the motor, think torq, and let the turbo take care of the topend.

once you have the biult bottom end though, all you gotta do is crank up the boost. as long as you got some good intercooling and your feul curve is tuned CORRECTLY you should have no problem exceeding you goals.
 
Foxfan88 said:
performance and fuel economy cannot coexist


I love close minded people


thats ok, I'll be the one who experiments with all the newest ideas and keeps on the cutting edge and you can just keep doing what everyone else tells you
 
Im running a vortech SQ-trim on my car tuned with a PMS. I drove down to the shore last weekend and got 23mpg. This was doing 75-80 on the highway stopping at 4 tolls (friggen jersey tolls) and some city driving around the beach. I usually average 17 mpg driving around town with a light foot.

With a power adder it can be done easily. N/A I don't see it happening, but maybe someone can prove me wrong.
 
I really dont see the problem with 400 RWHP and 20MPG.

Who said HP and mileage cannot exist? That's stupid.


First off mussy you are going on the right track, keep the cubes small.

IMO 306 with AFR 165s/185s. R block or DART.

Procharger at 11 psi can get you to 400 RWHP, if you need more just run a 75 shot of juice, the DART block can take that all day.

Your internals should also be forged, eagle, ross, mahle, you know the goodies.

20 mpg is going to be affected hugely by the gearing, a T56 is a great idea because of the 6th gear being 0.62:1 overdrive. I suggest you keep 3.08 gears or 3.27... If this combo doesnt get you 20MPG i will be shocked because this is the combo I'm looking into doing and this car is my DD. Good luck.


By the way if a procharged 306 isnt enough for you than 75 shot can help out.

Some people are really stupid and want OMFGZ 900 HP OUTTA MY 302!!!11one..

when you feel 400 RWHP for the first time you will be scared for your life. there is no need for more, especially on the street.
 
RacEoHolic330 said:
Im running a vortech SQ-trim on my car tuned with a PMS. I drove down to the shore last weekend and got 23mpg. This was doing 75-80 on the highway stopping at 4 tolls (friggen jersey tolls) and some city driving around the beach. I usually average 17 mpg driving around town with a light foot.

With a power adder it can be done easily. N/A I don't see it happening, but maybe someone can prove me wrong.


That's what I like to hear!

Just curious, what kind of HP numbers do you think you're putting down?

Thanks!
DJ
 
I'm not real bent on staying NA.. The NA idea came from the fact that combustion is more effecient at higher compression. Keeping NA, I could bump the compression up, increase the economy a little, and then top it off w/ a nitrous system (I'd probably still be a little low on compression for a true nitous loving motor, but I could live with it).

Like I said.. I don't need the 400 RWHP mark there all the time. I could live with opening a bottle to get it. But I would like it to be there all the time (i.e. forced or high rev NA).

But forced induction is fair game. Hell, anything is fair game. I'm still designing the thing.
 
Well, im running methanol injection so it's definitely in the area of 450-475 rear wheel with the 10 lbs of boost. I have an 8 in crank pulley on the way. I want that boost to come on sooner. After the 8 inch I'm going to get some dyno numbers, if I don't grenade my engine before that.
 
Foxfan88 said:
performance and fuel economy cannot coexist

This is actually accurate ... a top-fueler doesn't get 20mpg.
Better put would be MAXIMUM performance and MAXIMUM fuel economy cannot coexist.

However, you can make trades in certain areas and still achieve your goals.

First point to make is that a 400 horse car can be spanked by a 300 horse car ... power to weight ratio and good traction right :nice:

But back to the task at hand ... the easiest way to get there is with nitrous ... but then you miss the on tap benifits of boost.

If your goals were my goals here's what I would do (keeping it close to your original ideas):

400rwhp: 331 ~ AFR185's ~ custom grind cam ~ 10psi supercharger ~ supporting induction and fuel components ...

20mpg: 3.27 diff gearing ~ tranny w/ putt-putt OD ratio

The important step in the process is to get a cam grind that will allow you to putt down the freeway at low r's without bucking you into pissed off hysteria.