5.0 going into my 66 fastback: serpentine questions

[66 BLAKE 96]

Howdy all! I knew as soon as I picked up the roller 5.0 engine, I'd need to bug you guys to figure out some of these details.

Here's the lowdown:
85 5.0. w/ Edelbrock intake and carb
Deleting smog pump and power steering pump
Running only alternator, A/C, water pump and crank pulleys

Am I in for a belt-routing nightmare? Do I have to get some lame delete/idler pulley to get this to work?

Edit: Also, the alternator bracket is broken on this engine. Will any 85-93 bracket work, or do I need one specific to the '85 GT that I yanked this engine out of?

Thanks in advance for y'alls help.

 

[ss93cobra]

I'm pretty sure that the 85 bracket differs from the 87-93 but I wish I could tell you definitely. Regarding the belt, maybe check with March regarding their pulley configurations and brackets, etc. Sounds like a fun ride though!

 

[66 BLAKE 96]

I'm pretty sure that the 85 bracket differs from the 87-93 but I wish I could tell you definitely. Regarding the belt, maybe check with March regarding their pulley configurations and brackets, etc. Sounds like a fun ride though!

Thanks man!

That sucks about the bracket difference, but I bet you're right. I'm trying to keep this a little more affordable than having to turn to March for pulleys and brackets. We'll see I guess.

Anybody else got some knowlege for me?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I think the 85-93 brackets are all the same.

On the FMS A/C delete kit, it comes with bracketry with the E5 part designation. So i'm sure all 85+ have the 6-rib serpentine belt.

 

[Michael Yount]

He's not deleting a/c-just power steering if I read it right. So I think if you get the right length belt you'll be fine. From alternator, down to the bottom of the crank pulley, around the top of the crank pulley and up on the back side of the water pump (so the smooth part of the belt sits on the pump pulley), then across to the bottom of the a/c pulley, across and under the tensioner, and back up to the top of the alternator. You may want to get busy with your torch/cutter and remove some of the excess bracketry (for smog pump and p/s) - but otherwise, I think it will work. Stretch a string around it to get an idea of the belt length needed (note the tensioner has a marking on it's face - "range" - arrow must be pointing preferably about the middle of the range). Then buy a belt an inch longer, an inch shorter, and one belt the length you measured. Take back the two that don't work. Good luck!!

 

[trbkrb]

Here is a good routing diagram I picked up. Maybe it will help:

 

[66 BLAKE 96]

Here is a good routing diagram I picked up. Maybe it will help:

That kicks so much ass! Thankyouthankyouthankyou.

 

[Ranchero5.0]

Blake, you can also use the stock '66 stuff and bolt it on the '85 motor. Only trick is to go get a '70 crank pulley (4 bolts vs 3 in the '66) That's what I did on the Ranchero. Didn't want to mess with the power steering pump so I left it old school. You'll need a early waterpump that exits towards your bottom radiator port. Ford went crossflow in the '70's and the '66 should have a top flow raidator stock.

Jamie

 

[NKau]

You'll need a early waterpump that exits towards your bottom radiator port. Ford went crossflow in the '70's and the '66 should have a top flow raidator stock.

Jamie

Beat me to it; probably the most important thing to remember unless you're going with the newer style radiator.

 

[86T-Top]

Blake, you can also use the stock '66 stuff and bolt it on the '85 motor. Only trick is to go get a '70 crank pulley (4 bolts vs 3 in the '66) That's what I did on the Ranchero. Didn't want to mess with the power steering pump so I left it old school. You'll need a early waterpump that exits towards your bottom radiator port. Ford went crossflow in the '70's and the '66 should have a top flow raidator stock.

What do you mean by cross flow? That ford moved the output on the Waterpump from the passenger side to the driver side. Or that ford moved the output from the bottom of the radiator to the top of the radiator.

Thanks,

Mario

 

[Michael Yount]

Mario - I think they're talking about radiator design. In the 60's most radiators still had the fin-tubes running from top to bottom which means the tanks were on the top and bottom. As time went by, almost all contemporary radiators ran the fin-tubes from side to side which means the tanks are on the sides. With the late model Stang's pump, the radiator inlet is on the pass. side top; outlet is on the driver's side bottom; coolant flows through fin-tubes 'across' the radiator from passenger side to driver's side.

 

[88 Fox GT]

Actually, Michael Yount, the inlet and outlet on the radiator are both on passenger side. This is a problem with the water pump inlet on the drivers side. But, http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/ makes a hose for this. It takes the coolant from the lower passenger side outlet to the drivers side inlet on the pump. I contacted him about this issue, because I have the hose it takes for this. I originally bought it, thinking I was going to use it and he is buying it from me. So, he is covered on this issue.

 

[Michael Yount]

Thanks for clarifying Speed Demon - I assume you're talking about the 65/66 radiator. I wasn't trying to imply that they were located that way on the 65/66's; just how the later model Stang (i.e. - fox body) radiators were configured for purposes of explaining cross flow to Mario.

 

[88 Fox GT]

Ok, gotcha.