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Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by J-mo, Jul 29, 2013.
Loop wire is good and in the proper pin locations. What do you think about the B cam being to far advanced. 5 degrees ground into it along with the additional 4 degrees from timing set. 9 degrees total advanced. I've been looking at comp cam xe270hr 114 lobe seperation. It says its OBD 1 friendly. Any ideas?
Well now you know that you have the correct o2 harness, and that wont be a question anymore. I am not the best at timing stuff. Someone with more knowledge of this should answer. Sorry buddy.
Any and all help is much appreciated
9 degrees advance is a lot. I'm confused on the timing. When the stock cam is dot to dot its at 4 degrees advance. Plus or minus a few degrees. The new cam when installed at spec sounds like should be 5 advanced? How did you get to 9 degrees?
I've run the stock cam at 6 degrees advanced with good results, but everything I've read said upwards of 10 is pushing it.
The cam has 5 degrees advanced built into it and I added an additional 4 degrees advance from the timing set. 9 degrees total advanced from stock oem
Everything could be fine I just want to be sure I understand what your saying.
I've seen dyno numbers where someone played with advancing and retarding the cam and the sweet spot was only a few degrees either way. More than that it starts dumping power and torque. Advancing it raises the compression a little bit also. The valves close sooner on the compression stroke.
With that much advance the car might be losing 20 hp to gain 5 ft. lbs. of torque.
I was really trying to lower the rpm range of the cam to make it more streetable
I'm not picking on you man, and I'm sorry if it comes across that way.
My car normally starts dumping power at 5500 rpm. When I was running the stock cam at 2 advanced from dot to dot I think about 5200 rpm and the power was gone. I didn't dyno it, but I could tell the car pulled a little harder on the bottom end.
With where you have the cam now what rpm range do you get to before it starts dumping power?
I don't know what the specs are on the cam you got. I don't think thats your issue with the car though. My setup is pretty similar to yours only i'm running the stock cam and trick flow intake. Someone already said this but with everything done to the car it should be pretty lean if your running the stock A9P or L. I can't remember which one youre running without going back and reading again.
I was running a pro-m and 24#s and my setup was lean, and hard to keep cool unless I back off on the ignition timing. I went to colder plugs. If I run 100 octane I can keep the timing but its expensive and not really a solution... I'm going to try the x3z ecu and cobra maf sensor see if its any better. I know a tunes the best way but this car is a dd and needs to pass the ca smog nazis.
Did you shim the pedestals with those heads? Are they stud heads or pedestal? I have the gt-40X 58cc and theyre pedestal.
Computer-wise what controls you A\F is: ECU, MAF, ECT, IAC, O2 sensors and barometric pressure sensor.
I know how you feel on the car. I'm in the same shape as you trying to get everything right and streetable. I've found that about 80% of the stuff online is non-sense, or someone thinks because it applies to their make and model car it applies to all. In some cases I've done more damage than good listening to some of the things people say.
You say you did the "Surging Idle Checklist” . Did you start at the top of the list and work your way all the way through it? Or did you just pick and choose what you wanted to test? Most of the problems not found by the checklist are due to skipping around and not doing ALL the steps.
I missed seeing any reference to dumping the codes? Did you dump the codes and get at least an 11? A perfectly functioning system will always get a code 11, it is the everything is OK code. The 11 code is computer passed its internal self test.
If you don't get an 11, you have computer or wiring problems.
Please check and repost.