5.0 Overhaul

Dave94

New Member
Dec 18, 2007
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Colorado
Hi everybody! I'm new to the site and have a few questions. I picked up to 94 GT 5.0 Automatic with about 130,000 miles on it. It runs and starts ok, doesn't burn much oil and doesn't smoke. No knocking or other scarry sounds. It's got a few oil leaks and is kind of anemic. The compression isn't too bad but there's some significant variation between cylinders. It's not throwing any codes and the test functions pass. I heard a noise up front and noticed that rubber in the balancer is shot. I figure its time to pull the engine and overhaul or rebuild it. Thus my question.

My goal is a reliable daily driver. Who make's the best or most reasonable rebuild kit for this engine? What mods would you recomend while I have it torn down. I'm willing to put a few bucks into a nice running strong engine as long as it doen't sacrifice drivability, gas milage too much, or mess with what the computer can handle. I've heard that GT 40 heads are a nice improvement. Would you recomend the effort since I'm looking at getting the stock heads reconditioned anyway?

Thanks for your help, Dave
 
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Hello Dave

Welcome to 94-95 :SNSign:

Replace that hb ... and ... DO IT NOW!

Driving around can cause damage :eek:
and
If it flys apart ...
It can take out your timing chain cover ... big bucks :bang:

Get that done so you have time to make some good decisions

rather than

If it suddenly goes out of operation ...
you may be pressed to hurry up and get it back on the road :shrug:

As for mods ....

Steeper gears will give you the most bang for the buck spent :Word:

If talking about mods to make more power ... and staying NA :)

The OEM 4 cat mid pipe restricts the flow a good bit :(
An intake manifold will make a difference you can feel as well ;)

While mods like tb, maf, chips and the like are easy to install :nice:

The bitter truth to them is ... they offer very little power :notnice:

I really like pulleys and they gave a boost in power I could feel
but
At the low OEM idle rpm ... they do charge a bit les than sotck pulleys
so
If you go for them ... you might wanna consider an idle of 800 rpm

Many of the members have asked the same Q's so you can find
some really helpful info if you seek it out Dave.

Good Luck with all your plans :D

Grady
 
Thanks Grady,

I stopped driving it as soon as I noticed the harmonic balancer was wobbling. The oil leaks have to be addressed soon. I believe the rear seal is the main culprit. This is a good time of the year as I'm usually driving the Bronco anyway. I've got a line on some GT-40 heads and was primarly interested if they were worth putting on it. I believe they are off a 97 Explorer and not the P type. I'm going to have to get one set reconditioned anyway.

Thanks again, Dave...
 
You know what Dave

Many on here have found a good amount of benefit for not all that much
money spent with a low mileage explorer motor from a junk yard.

Just put your front end stuff ... which is a bit different ... on the
explorer motor and you are all set :D

btw ... those motors have a bit better heads than the OEM E7's as well :nice:

Grady
 
You know what Dave

Many on here have found a good amount of benefit for not all that much
money spent with a low mileage explorer motor from a junk yard.

Just put your front end stuff ... which is a bit different ... on the
explorer motor and you are all set :D

btw ... those motors have a bit better heads than the OEM E7's as well :nice:

Grady

I'll keep my eyes open. What is the best year for the explorer engine? I know the heads changed for the better in 97.
 
I'll keep my eyes open. What is the best year for the explorer engine? I know the heads changed for the better in 97.

Sorry Dave

I don't have specific details about that
but
You might use explorer as a keyword and search in the 94-95 forums :shrug:

It has been talked about several times I am sure of that :D

Now about the difference between the heads for the years of 96 and 97

If you possibly might be talking about GT40 and GT40p heads :shrug:

I've looked at a lot of iron head based combos and see many making
good power with the older regular non p heads. I can also tell you I
find a good many making about the same power with either head.

Yes ... the p heads are more efficient
but
You gotta ask your self ... how much more efficient :scratch:

The p heads with their moved spark plug can cause issues with headers
where the 40 heads are no different in the plug area

Just tryin to say ... if you found a good deal on some older regular 40's

I'd scarff em up in a heartbeat
and
I'd not lament over the fact they ain't p's ;)

Grady
 
Welcome! Great bunch of people here. Mabey you could post some pictures of your stang when you get a chance. It sounds like you have your work cut out for you, good luck with whatever direction you go with with the stang:nice:

Jeff
 
I found a good 98 Explorer engine. How much of a problem would it be to use it considering the gt40p heads?

The p heads have a issue with tighter space in the area of spark plug
to header.

Tons and tons of threads have been done on this site alone about what
I speak of here :Word:

Bottom line is there are shorty headers made specific for the p heads

Some LT headers non specific to p heads will work with a compromise
or two has been reported by many.

Just plug in the appropriate keywords in the search engine for all the
specific details.

Grady
 
personally id just put a new balancer on it and keep driving it... buy a explorer engine... throw it on a stand and rebuild that... around here they run like $500 the gt40 heads usually set you back a few hundred... so might as well just spend a few extra bucks and have an extra running car... the GT40p heads dont cause 2 many problems besides headers... IIRC i think macs and the Ford racing headers will clear the plugs if you use 90* boots... a few peices of heat wrap probally wouldnt hurt either... this might be worth looking in to... or just pick up some P specific headers...