5.0 setup ideas

[89OctaneStang]

I will be rebuilding the engine I have currently on my stand in the garage this spring and was wanting some opinions and ideas of what has worked and what didnt. I am looking to put myself somewhere around low 12s on the track but want to keep it streetable. My buddy got his LS1 in the mid 11's but now can't afford to drive it. I was hoping that I might be able to avoid that when I start my next project.

The engine on the stand currently is a 306 with stock everything except the E-Cam and short flow headers. The engine in the car is a 302 with 70 mm TB, 72 mm mass air, 24lb injectors, Explorer upper/Cobra lower, GT40P heads and headers, and stock cam. That setup put me in the mid 13's on the track.

Its an AOD (which I want to keep) and has 3.73 gears. No stall so streetable ideas on a stall size would be helpfull as well.

-ANY IDEAS???-

 

[89OctaneStang]

Honestly the only reason I'm looking to rebuild right now is the fact that I have a rod that knocks about half a dozen times after cold start. That has started happening this last week. So I figured if I got to go in and do some work, might as well toy with the idea of getting some more power out of it.

Can you port the GT40P heads and get any gain or are they best left alone? I know some heads are better with out the port and some could use the help of a mild port or so...

Can you port the Explorer upper or, again, is it not worth it??

Or do I ***** can both and go with something else for a better result? Again, I'm not looking to spend a whole lot but would be nice to atleast see 12s...

Just to give you an idea on the funds I'm working with, it will be a budget of like $2,500 or $3,000. So ideas based off what I have, what I'm looking for and my budget would be appreciated.

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

Honestly the only reason I'm looking to rebuild right now is the fact that I have a rod that knocks about half a dozen times after cold start. That has started happening this last week. So I figured if I got to go in and do some work, might as well toy with the idea of getting some more power out of it.

Can you port the GT40P heads and get any gain or are they best left alone? I know some heads are better with out the port and some could use the help of a mild port or so...

Can you port the Explorer upper or, again, is it not worth it??

Or do I ***** can both and go with something else for a better result? Again, I'm not looking to spend a whole lot but would be nice to atleast see 12s...

Just to give you an idea on the funds I'm working with, it will be a budget of like $2,500 or $3,000. So ideas based off what I have, what I'm looking for and my budget would be appreciated.

The p's respond very well to a port job i ported one set on my vert and it ran very hard with the stock cam, but dont put in bigger valves, the P heads are designed to be more efficient with smaller valves than other heads.

If you have any other money get rid of that e-cam, I can take down the same combo you have right now (except a 5 speed) with my stock cam ported e7 typhoon setup. He will get me on top end, but I have 4.10's compared to his 3.27's. but I literally hate that cam, it sounds nice and all but it really dosent perform.

 

[DocG]

My 306 was built with the Holley Systemax kit....the heads, cam and intakes. Also 24lb injectors. Not sure what the block has in it. I have receipts saying it was purchased from Excessive Motorsports, but no specs on it.

Its pretty streatable although the cam makes her a little jumpy at times. I'd say mid 12's on it is no problem.

 

[white 89 GT]

I agree the E cam needs to go, the valve is a shrouding issue bigger will not help.
Do you need to pass emissions were you are.

Check into anderson motorsports cams, call them tell them what you have and see what they recomend, it will be much better than the E cam.

I think maybe there n-41 is about as big as i would go but that depends on how streetable (mild) you want to keep it, n-21 could be what would be good for you.

Then get a converter of no more than 3200 stall non lock, go lock up if you need to retain gas milage. which ever way you go buy converter from a good co. don`t buy used unless you know history of the converter.
I recomend edge or dirty dog converter.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Let 25thMustang chime in. He is running SIICK times with his 302 set up. Mid 12's@106MPH. He can run fast on a budget and his car is beautiful.

Oh BTW....

 

[DocG]

The lope of the Holley setup.

View attachment 284343

 

[89OctaneStang]

I agree the E cam needs to go, the valve is a shrouding issue bigger will not help.
Do you need to pass emissions were you are.

Check into anderson motorsports cams, call them tell them what you have and see what they recomend, it will be much better than the E cam.

I think maybe there n-41 is about as big as i would go but that depends on how streetable (mild) you want to keep it, n-21 could be what would be good for you.

Then get a converter of no more than 3200 stall non lock, go lock up if you need to retain gas milage. which ever way you go buy converter from a good co. don`t buy used unless you know history of the converter.
I recomend edge or dirty dog converter.

No emissions. I'm in Texas but being Military I have my car registered back home in Ohio at mom's which has no emissions requirements.

E-cam is not going to be used. Do you recommend I rebuild the 306 we pulled or stick with the Explorer 302 setup with the new mods?

I need to retain some good gas mileage but the car is getting great miles per gallon right now. Better than it ever has and with 93 octane costing me $1.60 per gallon, I'm good for the time being.

Great hearing from you! Would it be worth it for me to buy a trany shell from the your neck of the woods and have you build a solid trany and ship it to me? Or would it be better in my situation to have it done down here?

 

[89OctaneStang]

Let 25thMustang chime in. He is running SIICK times with his 302 set up. Mid 12's@106MPH. He can run fast on a budget and his car is beautiful.

Would like to hear what he has to say.

 

[25thmustang]

If your goal is a streetable 12 second car I see no need to dump the parts you have. A good running GT40 motor, with all the bolt ons and even a stock cam should put you in the 12s. Save money by sticking with the 40s and send them out for a little work. Valve job, good springs, maybe some porting should be a nice upgrade. The stock cam will work, maybe get an adjustable timing set and retard or advance it? A good converter will do wonders by itself.

I think a solid rebuilt bottom end, the GT40s with a little work done, a stock cam, all the bolt ons, a good converter (shift kit might help as well) and some tires will put you in the 12s as you want, and keep it a fast, fun street car.

Oh btw, Ive been 12.53 @ 107 with a set of unported E7s (bigger valves), stock cam, bolt ons, rocking 18" wheels out front and 17" ET Streets out back! I love my stock cam set up, idles like a stocker, gets good gas mileage and pulls decent numbers at the track!

 

[NIKwoaC]

If your goal is a streetable 12 second car I see no need to dump the parts you have. A good running GT40 motor, with all the bolt ons and even a stock cam should put you in the 12s. Save money by sticking with the 40s and send them out for a little work. Valve job, good springs, maybe some porting should be a nice upgrade. The stock cam will work, maybe get an adjustable timing set and retard or advance it? A good converter will do wonders by itself.

I think a solid rebuilt bottom end, the GT40s with a little work done, a stock cam, all the bolt ons, a good converter (shift kit might help as well) and some tires will put you in the 12s as you want, and keep it a fast, fun street car.

Oh btw, Ive been 12.53 @ 107 with a set of unported E7s (bigger valves), stock cam, bolt ons, rocking 18" wheels out front and 17" ET Streets out back! I love my stock cam set up, idles like a stocker, gets good gas mileage and pulls decent numbers at the track!

+1

With those parts, that car would easily be in the 12s already if it were a T5 car (with good driving, tires, and assuming you didn't have 100 lbs worth of mustang magazines in the back seat). I don't have a lot of faith in the stock slushbox AOD myself, but maybe just a converter and a shift kit would get you there.

I also second the notion for the stock cam. I've seen several builds make 350+ hp (flywheel) with the stock cam. If you're trying to save money, let the stock cam be the last thing you swap.

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

agreed the stock cam is pretty decent...