Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by ARPM, Jul 26, 2008.

  1. I've looked at your blog and every post I can find, I'm very interested in your design.

    A friend of mine, fabricator, just got a tig welder. I have a shock tower from a 70 cougar for a mock up and he has agreed to help me out. If you could get a little more into the nitty gritty, I'd be grateful. :D
  2. so we dont hijack this post go to the post i started and ask any question you want.

    just for reference, this is my first suspension i built. i am a 25 year old mechanical engineer for an aerospace company. i have been working on car for my entire life and have a lot of experience on every other part on a car. I just wanted to tackle a project that showed my engineering talents.

    also i designed a rack and pinion that will better than the randalls and on par with the TCP, it will have lost of travel and lighter than everything else.
  3. ARPM,
    Do you have anymore detailed dimensions for these plates? (i.e. hole locations, dimensioned?) I've been eyeing that Ron Morris kit, but I'm pretty sure I can make the plates for cheaper and buy the coilovers elsewhere. Thanks
  4. Sorry but that's all i have. I never used that setup and the plates i had build for me were sold.
  5. Thanks for the quick reply ARPM! Looks like you were only able to get 4.125 inches of travel with the off the shelf QA1 parts from jegs and autofab. How did that suit you? I am considering doing the same thing(the DR4955P shocks with the t-bar conversion) Is there anything you would have done differently?
  6. That was the main problem i found on Ron's setup, so i made my own. Now i have 6" of travel and every kind adjustment you can imagine available! See page one of this thread i have a few pic's and sketches of my actual setup.
  7. Yea, I was checking that out. Pretty sweet setup, I am looking to go coilover but don't want to change the control arms(yet,or at all initially, I was hoping not to anyway). 6 in seems about right.

    Would anyone know what the stock travel is on a '66?
  8. excellent info very gratefull for you sharing with us iv allways been convinced theres a more economical way to get same results im guessing those springs simply painted or powder coated would trim the cost down even more?
    however something iv been thinking about. is there any reason why you couldnt use either a factory or uprated front coilover style strut/shock from something else and simply work out top and bottom mounting preferably to lca? this way you could buy the ccp kit or make it? and use good used units for shocks.

    or how about using good used/new longer shocks say spax adjustables or bilstiens and adding a weld on coil 2.5 over kit wich is available from various shops( (e.g here in england rally design- raldes) this may proove a lot cheaper or am i missing something here?

    look forward to the upper and lower arm parts list please keep this thread alive!

    once again many thanks!
  9. This is some great info I prefer to mount off teh lower LCA also but you have done some nice work.Looking into this, HOWE, makes all the componets I need to do this ourselves thanks for the cool pics and diagrams your cars are Very nice!
  10. i agree i just love that black one! hey wild bill thanks il go and google that in a mo but just incase is that an easy site to find and any idea on part numbers?

  11. Im working on it since another guy wont post what he found I have to take off the LCA as well as the upper and start messuring speedway may have them also I was looking though ther cat. last night.Im selling the Daytona so im preocupied at the moment with getting it gone.But the work done here on these great stangs is very impressive Im glad to see the sharing on here it really helps me find my way.I hope I can make the Mustang go like the FFR did.Dads ol stang will live again!:nice:
  12. yes i saw that with the,,other,, guy talk about,,dangling the carrot!,,:notnice:
    i would be very gratefull and may be able to help in return il try to p.m you later:nice:

  13. Was that a stab at me? I just posted up some info on my thread. Also check out this thread

  14. hi 5280
    just looked at those links cool stuff but no parts details/numbers/links am i looking at the wrong place? im building a twisty track car not a drag car im in england u.k but will be buying parts when i come back over to west coast end june im thinking cpp lower side and stock car shop upper with shocks to fit lca. all as cheap as possible i dont mind fabbing im just not keen on following the sheep and paying too much for overkill parts.

    next il worry about maybe a bmw steering box or some rack/pinion from something and i may switch to right hand drive, the reason i say bmw is that they drive great very tight but still run a box system i prefer r&p but bmws work very well

    i also considered fitting a 90,s toyota supra:jaw: front/rear end they have excellent handling and retain ford pcd and excellent brakes and upgrades im just not that keen unless it was a bolt in affair:nono:
  15. Im doing a roadcoarse car also.Hey is that a 351 inthe black car now I know how high mine will be inthe chassi if it is, nice hood.I think im going with a cowl scoop.Thanks for the info posted I need it all!

  16. Mostly fabbed everything. The ball joints are afco chrysler style screw ins with the correct taper. I think K727. And threaded ball joint holders. Everything else is materials and fab work. Afco shocks are 3870 T2 double adjustable. Oh and 3/4" chromoly rodends.
  17. if buying a arms off shelf can you buy them with correct hole locations? or do you simply re drill the car mounting area?

    is it just a case of buying arms the corect length from howes etc and welding on shock brackets or are there other angles etc to work out??:shrug:

    would it trim even more $$ by buying ball joints from rock auto or similar?

    im thinking cpp lower kit and off shelf upper with longer shocks to lca on new mounts however if vintage racers set ups work that well then uca mounting cant be that bad all my suspensions bust anyway so needs replacement looking to get a shopping list
  18. I think you mean ream the upper mount on the spindal So ther was no angle on the end of the upper control arm at the ball location?.I really have wanted to eliminate the tower and extend the rollcage tubing out to the front end for additional bracing and more room.running and even shorter coilover and mounting to the cage just to do something different.Thanks again for the info Factory Five sells some nice Uppers also as well as some realy cool billet UCA's from Levy Racing ouweee pricey. I beleive ther bought from Kirkem who does top end Aluminum bodied Cobras with billet suspensions.

  19. i built the UCA myself using rod ends, clevises, ball joint holders, threaded swedged steel tubes and raw materials. I performed a relocation of the UCA to my desired geometry and used the stock hole spacing a 3.75"

    i like the CPP LCAs and a TCP UCA if you were going to just buy stuff.