'67 Deluxe/Autometer Phantom clusters -- should I produce these?

  • Sponsors (?)


mdjay said:
You can run a small adjustable bracket from the back of the large gauges to the bottom holes.


Also, while you are looking for a picture of this bracket, email the manufacturer and ask how the blinker and high beam lights are going to ground to the plastic gauge frame? One more thing for them to mention in their sales pitch and the installation instructions.
 
mdjay said:
These new 67-68 gauge supports are just hitting the market. They give the option of using either 3 3/8" gauges in the middle, or 5" ones with a little trimming. Keep in mind, your gauge selection does become the majority of the cost of building these.

67%2068%20Parts2.jpg

Would 3 3/8" gauges look a little trashy in those big holes. does anyone have pics?
 

Attachments

  • 67%2068%20Parts2.jpg
    67%2068%20Parts2.jpg
    22.2 KB · Views: 42
reenmachine said:
I finally took a pic of the gauges illuminated. It's hard to get a good pic in the dark but you get the idea. This is with the standard incandescent bulbs -- there's an LED upgrade I'm going to try out soon that's supposedly brighter and more even lighting. We'll see.

whtface_illu.JPG

Where do you purchase that upgrade and does anyone know if autometer is goign to start producing 5" sport comp II and Ultralite II's

Also does anyone have more pics of their autometers lit up. i am trying to decide which ones to get.
 
bad68coupe said:
How hard was it for you to hook up the electric speedo's?
It's easy. Yank the speedo cable out, take the gear off it, put the gear on the AutoMeter speedo send, and stick that into the tranny. Run one signal wire to the speedo, +12V, and ground.

Find a known 1-mile distance and calibrate the speedo simply using the button on its face. That's it.

I like the electric unit because you're always right on regardless of rear end ratio, tire size, etc. No more screwing with speedo gears.
 
reenmachine said:
It's easy. Yank the speedo cable out, take the gear off it, put the gear on the AutoMeter speedo send, and stick that into the tranny. Run one signal wire to the speedo, +12V, and ground.

Find a known 1-mile distance and calibrate the speedo simply using the button on its face. That's it.

I like the electric unit because you're always right on regardless of rear end ratio, tire size, etc. No more screwing with speedo gears.

Thanks. do you or anyone else have anymore pictures of their autometers at night?
 
fastlane65 said:
Two.

About 175 less than you plugging what you are trying to sell.

You sure jumped on this fast. Nervous someone might cut into your sales? I really doubt my one panel will hurt you. Even if it turns out better.
First off, it's been weeks since you first put your eBay auction up here. That's not jumping on it very fast...

Second, I don't directly plug what I'm selling, nor does Jay or the vast majority of the other professionals on here. We offer our input and furnish more information because people ask for it directly. If you bothered to read the other cluster threads, I learned to make clusters partially from StangNet, came up with my own way of doing things as a result, and shared every single one of my experiences with the process, good and bad, with everyone so the do-it-yourselfers (including you) could check it out.

Third, take a few days straight and read my posts on StangNet. I have helped many, many people here with technical issues with hundreds of accurate, detailed posts. I'm not bragging by any means, and I certainly have gotten a ton of good information here as well. Maybe once you've given back to the community a bit there will be a bit of tolerance for your agenda, but not now when basically all you come here for is to plug your auctions.
 
fastlane65 said:
Two.

About 175 less than you plugging what you are trying to sell.

You sure jumped on this fast. Nervous someone might cut into your sales? I really doubt my one panel will hurt you. Even if it turns out better.
Oh, and I almost forgot to say...there's no way that it could possibly turn out better!:D :D :D

:SNSign:
 
Reen, why so hostile? Why the need to attack me? I was just following your example of making a product then posting here to tell people how to buy it.

I’ve been reading this forum for a long time, I just don’t feel the need to post every time I tighten a screw. Yes, I have read the forum and many of your posts. If I recall correctly you have always posted good information on your projects and given your best advice.

You state that you “do not directly plug” what you sell. This whole thread proves that statement false. You have provided examples of the models available, your price structure and how to contact you for purchase. Your whole intention in starting this thread was to test the members’ interest in your product to decide if production would be profitable.

I got in on this thread late, but participated in similar ones on other forums. I asked several questions here but never got any answered. On other forums I posted similar questions and usually got good answers. My only “agenda” by returning to this thread was to provide the community one quality alternative to your high priced product. If I really wanted to “plug” my auction don’t you think I would have posted on the first day it was listed, not the last?

As far as “better” – if I can make the same thing using less material and labor, is that not better? If I can sell it for less, is that not better? Sure, it doesn’t have perfectly welded brackets and perfect powdercoating, but it is in the dash - - never to be seen again. Better? Mine is lighter, fits better without all the unneeded bracketry on the back, all the lighting is Autometer so the bulbs match and the tach can be rotated if desired. Better? You be the judge - - but you’ll have to buy it to decide. Better hurry, the auction is almost over. Do you need the link?
 
One thing is for sure, Reen has earned a lot more respect from this community than your latest post will bring you and that can't be good for business. You should feel free to pedal your product as this is an open board, but don't hijack someone elses technical thread to do it, that's just being a jackass. Yes, I call this a technical thread because I'm sure this thread has helped more StangNetter's build their own guage cluster than Reen has sold. Post it in the classified section where it belongs.
 
fastlane65 said:
Reen, why so hostile? Why the need to attack me? I was just following your example of making a product then posting here to tell people how to buy it.

I’ve been reading this forum for a long time, I just don’t feel the need to post every time I tighten a screw. Yes, I have read the forum and many of your posts. If I recall correctly you have always posted good information on your projects and given your best advice.

You state that you “do not directly plug” what you sell. This whole thread proves that statement false. You have provided examples of the models available, your price structure and how to contact you for purchase. Your whole intention in starting this thread was to test the members’ interest in your product to decide if production would be profitable.

I got in on this thread late, but participated in similar ones on other forums. I asked several questions here but never got any answered. On other forums I posted similar questions and usually got good answers. My only “agenda” by returning to this thread was to provide the community one quality alternative to your high priced product. If I really wanted to “plug” my auction don’t you think I would have posted on the first day it was listed, not the last?

As far as “better” – if I can make the same thing using less material and labor, is that not better? If I can sell it for less, is that not better? Sure, it doesn’t have perfectly welded brackets and perfect powdercoating, but it is in the dash - - never to be seen again. Better? Mine is lighter, fits better without all the unneeded bracketry on the back, all the lighting is Autometer so the bulbs match and the tach can be rotated if desired. Better? You be the judge - - but you’ll have to buy it to decide. Better hurry, the auction is almost over. Do you need the link?
OK OK perhaps I overreacted, and I apologize for jumping down your throat. It's just that it comes across as disingenuous when someone with no history comes on and markets a product. It happens all the time. I also must admit that when I first started posting here a couple years back people jumped down my throat as well thinking I was just trying to profit off of someone else's site. It took time and thoughtful contribution to become a valuable (I hope) member of the board and you're in that same situation. I didn't, however, do it by hijacking someone else's thread, which is considered impolite.

As far as the clusters go, I don't see the plastic back as being superior. I have one right here collecting dust -- tried it and discarded it. I do replace all of the auxiliary lighting with Autometer parts, as a matter of fact. I build new harnesses instead of relying on 40-year-old wiring to make a high-end cluster function reliably. And all of that "unneeded bracketry" allows me to fasten the cluster into the car via the factory metal hard points instead of a few plastic tabs.

It may be true that the nice welds and the powdercoating disappear behind the dash, but that's how I build cars. I don't subscribe to the philosophy that if you can't see it, it doesn't matter what it looks like.