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Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by 68GT500KR_Vert, Aug 21, 2006.
The steering system, exhaust and driveshaft are in.
UPDATE - Exhuast, Headers, Steering, Convert Plate, X-Bar, Suspension, & Subframe All Complete. 3" Stainless Steel Magnaflow exhaust. FPA Headers.
I have to finalize the design of the convert plate; going to add some metal sides to add some strength and cut out some on the main plate to allow cooling under there. The car is back in the garage until we move to the new house.
CNC Master Brakes
Adding metal sides to the convert plate - great idea, crucial!
Well, I've moved to a new state and found a new shop to help with the build - hopefully I'll have some updated project pictures soon.
True- The trouble with digital vs. analog is you have to actually read numbers, while with needles you can note the position without taking your eyes off the road.
My long term plan is to build my own custom digital gauges - lcd screens in place of the gauges and a carputer to read the analog signal turned to digital. then develop custom application to display gauges - they can be swapped and customized with different looks and purposes. So the main dash will have two large gauges and 3 small - the center console will have two small, and a LCD screen will be where the radio should go.
CS Wheels Look Awesome!
Nice build. I'm really glad to see guys are still into Eleanor! I'm one of the original from way back. I've been working on my car since before the 1st kits were available from Cinema Vehicles. Man, these things take a long time when you're broke all the time
Anyway, I was wondering about the wheels you chose. What backspacing and size did you go with? I can't get Shelby Wheels to return my calls.
Thanks and you car is going to be amazing!
These are the Shelby Wheels - CS67 Chrome (18x8.5 front / 18x9.5 back)
I have their stock BS. They don't offer them any other way.
I have a R&D Mustang II Front End and Coilover Rear. They fit great. I haven't even rolled the fenders yet.
I'm running BFGoodrich g-Force™ T/A® KDW (245/35ZR18 front / back 285/35/18) and I could have gone wider out back.
Waiting on $$$$ for final Body & Paint, otherwise the car is done. I'm also trying to find a good bodyshop somewhere around Norfolk or Richmond Virginia.
Brought the car down to Outlaws Rod & Custom today to get an estimate for the remaining work. I've checked out their shop and their work and had the owner check out my car at my house. They are building some great cars down there and I've been impressed with how they treat their customers. They have some amazing cars down there. One guy's Chevelle is crazy, $350k into it, never seen anything like it, and they have a bunch of really nice mustangs and a couger.
It's so nice to be working with professionals, i feel good about leaving the car there. Instead of asking me what I wanted done, they immediately started telling me the right way to do it. They will strip the car back down, send it off to media blasting again, since the last guy sprayed primer over the surface rust, epoxy prime it at the blaster, then start fixing and finishing the metal.
Can wait to see the estimate and get them started.
been watching from the start ,i cant wait either, Jim
if you havnt rolled the wheel lips yet roll a 1/8 inch wire into them it will stiffen them
stronger than the factory lip i do all of mine that way, the wire prevents the flair from bending
dude do i have the perfect paint color for you , saw it on a VW BEETLE. didnt cost this guy a penny.
VERY WIERD BEETLE
Getting taken back apart and headed out for media blasting again! Then primed and ready to finish up the sheet metal work.
second times the charm, dont think you wont to go for a third time,maby it will take this time around