'68 Power steering problems

[TD68302]

I’m having power steering problems with my ’68 mustang. The pump is new, I have installed three different control valves, and the power cylinder is new. The problem that I’m having is that when I turn the steering wheel back and forth, everything (front wheels, steering wheel, & all steering components starts shaking real bad. Any ideas would help. Thanks

 

[stanger53]

Did you replace all those items in an attempt to fix the shaking problem, or did the shaking develope sometime during all this?

 

[68keyblr]

i have the exact same problem. I'm hoping someone has an answer.

 

[TD68302]

First was the power cylinder, due to the rod was bent, no problems. Next was the control valve thats when the problem started. So I replaced valve same problem, replaced valve again, still same problem. Started thinking since I have replaced the valve three times not the it's not the problem. Thinking since everything was new maybe pump was worn out and was not putting out enough pressure for the new parts. Changed this weekend still no different.

 

[S-Car-Go]

I've heard that will happen if you cross the lines to the control valve. No personal experience though.

 

[geostang351]

I can't believe this hasn't been mentioned put is it a violent back and forth movement making it unsave to even hold the wheel? Are you control valve line crossed. I have done this as well as several other members here (it can almost break your wrist!). When is it shaking?

 

[stanger53]

When you are turning the wheels, the system shutters and shakes, but doesn't move by itself, right? That wouldn't be the crossed hoses problem.

When I have heard about this before it was always a control valve problem, but it is hard to believe that three different valves all cause the same problem.

Are these valves new repros or rebuilt? All from the same source?

 

[mustangmike6996]

are you turning the wheel while you are stopped??? make sure you verify this when actually driving to make sure its not the tires in a bad contact patch and sticking to the ground..

 

[TD68302]

No the lines are not crossed, I took the lines and crossed them just to make sure.
The valves have been all from the same company, and are new, not remans.
The company has always exchanged them for me. So I have sent my old one back first, Then they have sent a new one out, (maybe they keep sending the same one back???)

 

[pabear89]

They may be sending the same one back to you.
Now you say you've tried switching the small lines and it still has the same shake.
Have you done any adjusting to the ball stud?
they may not have it centered and it is throwing off the fluid pressure to the ram.

The ball movement controls the fluid flow to the ram,
if its loose it will flop back and forth making the steering wheel dance.

Just a thought.

PB

 

[TD68302]

I have adjusted the spool bolt. I have loosen It too the point that, it is floping around and I have thighten it to the point that I thought the bolt was going it snap.

I have had the company that I buy the control valves from so confused that they have double shipped two control valves. I have one extra control valve that I can try, but that would be the forth one and Im sick of the mess of changing them out, And having to put on new header gasket, since I'm having to remove the header.

 

[pabear89]

Well you made me look in the book...

Could it be you're not installing it correctly?
Do you have the 4 7/8 inch from control center stud to spindle connecting rod stud?
Have you installed the roll pin in the rod hole to lock the valve position on the rod?

The control valve centering spring adjust, tighten nut snug (90-100 in-lbs)
back nut off 1/4 turn .

If you missed any of these steps, it might be your cause to the problem.

PB

 

[TD68302]

I will have to check that measurement, I would not think if it was too far in or too far out that it would cause a problem, But at this point I will take it all.

 

[Big_B]

Several years ago I went through 3 new control valves that were being made by SSBC and had very similar problems. One literally blew up when I started up the engine. Everytime I sent one back they said they were still working out the bugs. I gave up and finally had my old one rebuilt and it worked ok (not great), but leaked like crazy. I recently had mine rebuilt again by Stanger53, and while I haven't had it running yet (do to a different problem) I have high hopes.

My $0.02.

 

[wild70stang]

My car is suffering from these same issues. Right now im dealing with a bum master cylinder, combined with Big bs theory of the control valve, its probably air stuck in the lines combined with a bad control valve. I dont know when, if ever, the control valve on my car has been replaced.

 

[TD68302]

The new valves that I'm get have been built by SSBC retailed through PST. Thanks for the $0.02 worth Big B

 

[pabear89]

I will have to check that measurement, I would not think if it was too far in or too far out that it would cause a problem, But at this point I will take it all.

Well the control valve not set to proper lenght will cause problems.
The ball stud moves the spool valve which controls the flow of hyd fluid to the ram.
Just as not putting the roll pin in will allow the stud not to be centered and the spool valve will wander.
By preloading the spool valve with the spring adjustment keeps it snug to the ball stud so it will switch fluid movement.

PB

 

[stanger53]

Well, I think your problem is the new repro control valve. I have seen this problem with the new valves before, although it is usually the Flaming River valves than the SSBC valves. They are built too tight and the valves inside do not move smoothly like they should. The SSBC valves also had a problem with warped spacer plates and wrongly machined reaction valve plugs, but I thought they had fixed these. Maybe not.

 

[TD68302]

Well I'm going to Install the last new control valve that I have. But before I install a brand new control valve I'm going to rebuilt it. Does that make any sense?? I did check the measurements on the control valve and it came too 4 3/4". So I will back off the next one another 1/8", and while I was under the car tonight I checked to make sure the power cylinder rod was not bent, which it wasn't, put new bushing on as well.

Or should I give Up on the SSBC valves and go somewhere eles?

 

[stanger53]

Although it is hard to diagnose over the internet, it sounds like a typical control valve problem. It is still strange that you would have the same problem with so many different valves, but maybe there was a bad run of them built. I hope you get a good one.

If the last new valve doesn't work out, do you still have your original Ford control valve to rebuild? If so (inserting shameless plug), why don't you send it to me for rebuild?