Progress Thread 69 Sheet Metal Repair

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by candphall, Jul 10, 2013.


  1. candphall

    candphall Member

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    After much thought and some encouragement from some well known forum members I have decided to tackle the floors, toe boards, and torque boxes on my 69 fastback. Today I piled the interior found both toe boards rusted through the tops of the torque boxes, pictures posted. I am sure there will be more that needs to be replaced as the disassembly begins. I will be posting my progress on the forum and looking for any advice I can get. So thanks in advance.

    To start I would like your thoughts on one piece or two piece torque boxes NPD offers both and they are not to far from my home in Florida. I have purchased may parts from them in the past and have not been disappointed.

    I will also need a welder this wont be my last protect and I have 220v available in my garage. So if you have a favorite please let me know.
     

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  2. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    oh that was a special option, that is where you hide the empty beer cans:rlaugh:
     
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  3. candphall

    candphall Member

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    Ther will be plenty of those to hide before this project is done!
     
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  4. candphall

    candphall Member

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    I have removed the interior and have the car supported on six jack stands. Car is leveled front to rear and side to side. I would like to remove both floor pans and torque boxes at the same time so installation and welding could be done at the same time. Is this smart or should I do one side at a time.
     

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  5. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    you can do both at the same time but it would be better do do one at a time
    as one side still in place would help keep things level and square .with both cut loose it is very flimsy
     
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  6. candphall

    candphall Member

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    One at a time it is
     
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  7. lauras70mach1

    lauras70mach1 Member

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    I would go one at a time as well, that way you can reference the other side if needed. I put in one piece torque boxes, if I did it again I'd go two piece since I think they would be easier to put in. Had to bend some flanges etc. and use a big rubber mallet to squeak the one piece ones in there.
     
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  8. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    heah you have to pound them in with a rubber hammer so its best to leave one side together so it wont move around.
     
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  9. candphall

    candphall Member

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    I began on the passenger side today, I only had a couple of hours so I was only able tho remove the seat support. Next week I hope to get the old floor out and the new one trimmed to fit. Then i will begin on the torque box and outer cowl panel. When I trim the old floor along the tunnel I assume I should allow the new sheet metal to overlap the tunnel. How much shout I overlap the tunnel with the new sheet metal. I also purchased a roofing saw on Horse senses recommendation. Boy what a time saver.
     
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  10. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    so you like that saw did you? i have used mine several times now and it's about the best one i have bought. if you do over lap the panels dont leave much of an over lap 1/4 inch or so so moisture and crud doesnt collect.
    i always butt weld the panels but the welds need to be good and it takes a lot of time. i usualy trim out the old floor a bit smaller than i want and over lay the new panel then saw through both at the same time about 4 inches at a time and tack weld the two panels as i go .you have to keep pushing the little strip out of the way under the floor so you dont weld it back down
     
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  11. candphall

    candphall Member

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    I don't think I'm good enough to do a butt weld but I will see. How do you keep the new pan from shifting around while you cut both pieces at once . Thanks again for your help.
     
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  12. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    push it into place and tack weld the corners,make a cut about 4 inches then make tack welds about an inch apart and continue untill you are all the way around.go back and fill them in after.i lay spot weld after spot weld to fill in but it takes a while to do.
     
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  13. candphall

    candphall Member

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    Got it thanks
     
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  14. candphall

    candphall Member

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    Most of the drivers side floor out up to the frame extension. I am happy to say the frame extension is rust free. Are there any thoughts on using a pneumatic chisel to separate sheet metal from support structures wince the spot welds have been drilled. In addition I want to confirm the torque box is welded to the frame extension on the inside and the frame rail on the outside. That will next to go
     

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  15. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    it may be easiest to take it out in pieces rather than tring to remove in one piece you could use a air chisel and blow off the outer cover then it wouldn't be so hard to remove. the torque box is welded to the frame inside just at the top flange under the floor. the hardest part to remove will be the outer cover ,it has a full length weld down the frame so if you use a air chisel be carefull not to go through the frame.
     
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  16. candphall

    candphall Member

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    Thanks the torque boxes that I purchased are two piece because I heard they were the easiest to install. Do the pieces get welded together once installed.
     
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  17. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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  18. candphall

    candphall Member

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    The right side floor pan has been removed and the torque box is next. What would be the best way the remove the weld in the picture below. I'm thinking 4 inch angle grinder. Any thoughts on what cutting discs would work best.
     

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  19. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    about a 4 inch chop wheel and cut right down the weld .it will probably take a couple of them though. i usualy torch them out close then grind what ever is left but not if the fuel tank is still in or some of the interior.
     
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  20. candphall

    candphall Member

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    Indeed the panel that goes between the outer cowl and the engine bay sheet metal I believe it's part of the fire wall. I would like to replace the panel only and not the in tire firewall. But I don't see the panel offered. Any ideas.
     
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