$8,000 to $10,000 to spend max-engine

[sick95gt]

Ok, so I decided that I'm gonna just give in and get a new set up for my car, but I need advice on what to get. I got 8-10K that I can spend on whatever. My goal is to have a car that will drive smoothly and be reliable, but also have balls. It won't be a daily driver, but I need it to drive like one, since I might drive it often. Right now it drives like ass since there is something wrong internally. So, If it runs like a 12 second quarter, I'll be more than happy. I was thinking maybe a 331 with a blower, but then I thought that I might want a turbo instead. I can use the parts in my sig, but will change them if needed. I know I have to change th fuel pump, injectors and MAF and all that, but if I can run a decent combo with my same heads and intake manifold, I will. They only have like 1000 miles on them. I want to hear some ideas before I make a purchase. I will have a shop do the work since I dont have the tools. I also know I will have to change my rear end gears. Maybe 3.27's or 3.55's. I need to use the freeway a lot. Anyways, any ideas would be great.

 

[cbarr300]

haha, I'm in the same boat as you. My shortblock is somewhat fuxed (still has plenty of power..but I'm sure it's on borrowed time).

I'm going with afr 185s (maybe 205s), trackheat, and a custom ground cam inside of a s-trim 331.

I say you save a couple more thousand and go with a dart block

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

With your mods, you should be solidly into the 12 second zone now with traction. I might be inclined to upgrade the transmission to ensure it's not the weak link in the drivetrain. Does it have any issues to speak of now, or are you looking for more power/reliability/drivability? You could get solidly into the 10's by throwing $8-10k more into it. If you don't have them already, a good set of subframes and control arms alone could make the car feel new again, and luckily, you could do it for probably $5-800 depending on which manufacturer you choose.

 

[sick95gt]

With your mods, you should be solidly into the 12 second zone now with traction. I might be inclined to upgrade the transmission to ensure it's not the weak link in the drivetrain. Does it have any issues to speak of now, or are you looking for more power/reliability/drivability? You could get solidly into the 10's by throwing $8-10k more into it. If you don't have them already, a good set of subframes and control arms alone could make the car feel new again, and luckily, you could do it for probably $5-800 depending on which manufacturer you choose.

The problem is that its way fu$#ed up right now. If it ran properly, I don't think I would worry about changing anything. I just want to do it all over and start fresh. I don't even think I want 10s. I might kill myself. lol!

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

I'd never want to discourage your desire to increase power or anything, but if you can achieve your desired performance as inexpensive as possible, that would ultimately be preferred, correct? I'm willing to bet that with a good tune, you could have factory-like drivability. The tuning options are totally up to you, whether you want to have a dynotune session and a chip burned, or pick up your favorite self-tuning device and get your hands dirty with learning the ins and outs of the EEC. The issues our cars have with mods compared to the Fox 5.0 EEC that more readily lends itself to mods without drivability issues alone can leave you frustrated, so I can definitely understand wanting to start over, but you may leave yourself $8-10k lighter in the pocket and still have drivability problems without a tune.

 

[final5-0]

I looked at your sig closely and also agree
you should be making 12 sec 1/4 mile power

I would say it depends upon your driving ability and 60 foot of course.

I also would say it depends upon if your parts were chosen with Ed's
recommendations.

You are not being specific enough to let me know why you are unhappy.

If it is drivability
you don't have anything I see
that would prevent you from finding happiness with pcm optimization

Seems like to me you got a pretty nice combo now
but
You have not worked all the bugs out of it

Grady

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

That's what I was thinking also Grady, so it's good to see we're on the same page.

 

[gcomfx.com]

Grady might tune your car in for $8-10K

But seriously, what do you feel is wrong internally? And why do you feel there is something wrong? A 331 shortblock and rough tune will get you in the 12s. No need for the blower. See my sig. We've still got some tuning to do and some suspension mods to go, but I can see mid to low 12s just on motor. 11s are just around the corner with the juice.

 

[rj95svt]

If I was in your situation ( I am but I don't have the money or the H/C/I you do) I would buy a CHP 347 street fighter short block have your heads ported and get a new custom cam. i would install a 255lph fuel pump, 39lb 03-04 cobra fuel injectors, a lightning mass air meter, and get it tuned by a reputable tuner like Don Lasota. This combo I figure would be good for 350rwhp I would think.

Without a tune driveability will be horrible with either this combo or your current combo which you might already know but it's not listed in your sig. After doing all this you might have enough money left over to upgrade the trans although I doubt it.

 

[Pokageek]

When I want to spend $8-10k, I would plan on $6-8k.

 

[gcomfx.com]

When I want to spend $8-10k, I would plan on $6-8k.

 

[sick95gt]

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Just to answer the question on why I am planning on changing- some of you might remember the crazy vibration problem that I've been having for quite a while. I parked it for a year and a half. I changed EVERY rotating part that could cause the vibration other than tearing down the engine. And everthing that would support vibration. I'm talking, the balancer, clutch, flywheel, tranny and engine mount etc. Anyways, I'm thinking of doing a built 306 with a turbo. So, to clarify a little bit, I just have a budget of about 10k to spend, but I need to get all the supporting mods, and also have to pay someone to install it, tune it etc. I would never spend 10k on just motor, because it would be more motor than I would ever want. I know it wont take much to touch 12's. I'll clarify on that too. I don't want to hit a 12.98. I want a daily driver that can run 12 flat and drive comfortable when I'm not smashing the gas. At the same time, I won't complain if I go 11's, but that's not my goal. I need suggestions on tranny, and other supporting suspension mods. I already have an eibach prokit, kyb gas shocks, upper and lower rear control arms.

 

[go-stang5.0]

get a new long rod 306 shortblock or a stroker if you wish and get it tuned properly. I'd keep your current H/C/I setup. I'd invest the rest in a Maximum Motorsports Maximum Grip Box. I can bet you would run 12.5 or lower on street tires. And you would be able to run with any porsche, vette or for that matter any other sports car you wish you could afford.

I know my opinion wont be shared by many...but you asked.

 

[BlackVert]

i went with a 410 because i was in the same boat as you. my motor was giving up the ghost, and i had to decide between dropping $30k on a new stang or taking $15k and fixing this one. can you guess which way i went?

mine is a car i drive alot, 100% on the street, and i want to be able to just get in and go without worrying about it, but be able to blow pretty much anyone away that tests me. i am staying n/a because i believe it is more forgiving. i think i went over $8k too, but i went all out with it. talk about instant torque ...

with a 331, a blower, and the right cam and tune, it could drive like a stocker, and scare the hell out of your girlfriend when you drop the hammer. you'll probably want to save some money though to upgrade the tranny.