RYC CUKR when you omitted the shims did the spider gears roll right in or were they still a little tight? When I did my Trac-Lok I used the modded clutch pack set-up and the thinnest shims I had in my kit. The spider gears rolled in with a bit of persuasion from a block of wood and a hammer. When I assembled the diff back in the 8.8 housing I had a little trouble getting the pin back in place. The overall clutch pack thickness had the axle ends protruding further inward. I ended up wedging some small pieces of wood behind the flanges on the outboard end of each axle and I was then able to drive the pin home in the carrier. I changed to a 3.55 R&P at the same time. The rear was relatively quiet in operation, but would clunk loudly turning into parking lots and driveways, wherever there was the slightest curb (step in pavement I guess I should say). One day it let out a pretty good bang and has never clunked since. I thought that perhaps something had broken. I changed the gear oil and the old drain oil looked pretty clean with just the usual amount of metallic tinge to it. I put in some Lucas 75W-90 and 2oz. of additional modifier. The Lucas synthetic states on the bottle that its ideal for limited slip differentials, but I had a little friction modifier on hand so I put in in anyway. I took the car for a spin and did some figure 8's in a parking lot. I didn't notice any noise or clunking. I haven't done any holeshots, but is there another way to check the breakaway torque on the Trac-Lok?
