`88 crank but no Start (Crank Sensor Dr_EluSivE?)

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by AKA3Toes, Nov 26, 2010.


  1. AKA3Toes

    AKA3Toes New Member

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    ---FWIW, I have been through just about every step-by-step guide on nearly every site and at one point or another ran into a "where does this mention my situation?" or "okay, so how do I test the hall effect?" even looked some over 4-5 times so as to translate the authors' terminology or just scratched my head and moved on to another paragraph... cause for example, there's no 10-pin connector at* the EGR Time Delay Switch/EGR Vacuum Solenoid (AKA Salt & Pepper Shakers), that's only 2 x 2-terminal connectors (will search later for a 10-pin on the other end of the wiring harness cause I do have a code 84 even after replacing the switch/solenoid). So now, explanation:

    ---Fired it up one afternoon and after about 20 seconds of warm-up time and all went silent. No cough, no sputter, no bangs, clanks or grinds. Just "bl-aa-aa-aah" like the plug was pulled.

    ---Fuel pump is priming, pressurized fuel at fuel rail, nice ripe blue spark present at coil as well as plugs, TFI tested good at What-oZone (though it may be the wrong one), had power to injector I tested, no start using... I so hate doing this on a gas burner, but... ether.

    ---After testing the module, I hooked it back up and almost got a cough out of it. That was after tapping all four sides of the ECC relay in a lame attempt to clean contacts/etc., without disassembly or replacing a part that may be good (still collecting spare/"diagnostic relays").

    ---1988 LX 2.3L w/5-speed manual - OBD codes = 21, 24 & 84

    ---When it comes to this TFI for a manual transmission that Accel makes (35369), is that their own design or did FoMoCo/MoCraft do the same. I'm not getting any different part numbers between AT and MT locally, and freakin What-oZone had prescribed the same P/N module they crossed mine to (when I had it tested), for my bud's `87 5.0 LX 5-speed & gave the same P/N for a 5.0 w/AT... and to top it off, I had to demonstrate how to test the TFI, so as usual, I am not impressed nor am I assured of their competence in finding the right parts without my giving them the part number first.

    ---TPS voltage was .10v lower than when adjusted after installing new timing belt. The timing belt was installed last year right after we purchased it. I'll be checking the timing marks, TDC and rotor location tomorrow to see if maybe it stepped a tooth or two out of time. Do the tensioners have a high rate of failure? Didn't look like there was much that could go wrong, but I can see myself laughing after countless hours of troubleshooting and find that the spring broke.:nonono:

    ---If I were to find no PIP signal is present, that would mean I wouldn't get spark at plugs correct? Or does this fine wiring work backward from how I am thinking? The combined diagram-schematic hasn't helped me much in regards to telling me what controls what and in what sequence.

    ---Where is this crankshaft position sensor and how hard a task is it going to be to get to it? Can I test it prior to removal or am I stuck with removing the balancer (special puller if it doesn't want to play nice and come off easy?) just to access it? I don't even see a crank position sensor listed at RockAuto for the `88, does it even have one?

    ---Can you tell I am at wits end with this? If I had the cash I would gut it, tie the frame together upgrade the front stabilizer bar, A-arms and drop an old* 302/351cid w/450/500cfm Holley 2300 on it.

    ---I have spark but no power w/ether... it can only be timing... right?

    edit
    -What I forgot:

    ---The S&P Shaker was throwing a code cause I had lost functionality or the non-vented solenoid. 12v power didn't trip the relay and no continuity w/Ī©meter, so replaced with working, used unit after testing voltages at the 2x2 connectors.
    #1
  2. keithnra

    keithnra Member

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    this may not help but i had an 89 GT one time that wouldnt do anything but turn over and would not start. I went thru everything and finally i checked to see if i had power to my eec and low and behold there was no power. It turned out to be one of the fuseable links coming off the solenoid was blown. I fixed that and it fired right up, just a thought cuz i feel ya man.
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  3. AKA3Toes

    AKA3Toes New Member

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    ---Everything helps when it comes to tracing problems and tech advice, even a breather at times!

    ---Thank you for the input keithnra. Now, if I ever have to get at that ECC, how much of a pain is it going to be to pull it? I'll get around to that side and recline the seat, lay down with my head on the floor board so I can be more comfortable `cause... thank God they didn't put it on the left side (driver aspect) so we'd have to deal with the steering column as an obstruction!

    ---I wanted to get out there today but I slipped into a the turkey induced coma after signing off last night. So, 3pm I made a trip out to it with the timing light, out in the damp weather, disconnected all plug wires and grounded #1, ignition in RUN position, turned the crank clockwise by hand until the light was tripped. Heard hall effect working before I got there, heard triggered injectors and discovered the timing mark on the gears was off. So, it appears that this 1-year old timing belt jumped.

    ---I'll have to find a source for cheap timing belt tensioners/tensioner parts (cause I received "walking papers" from work) and pull the cover. Will unbolt the cam gear and make sure it isn't a keyway or something cam related (other than being out of phase), then call What-oZone to see if a timing belt has a warranty more than their normal 90 day belt warranty. Either way, belt and tensioner/tensioner parts are being replaced. I am so happy that the belt is a simple job. Only thing is the dang lip on the bottom that keeps the belt on the crank. That was a snug squeeze when I did the belt last year. Might opt for lifting the engine up, replacing the oil pan gasket, inspecting/replacing oil pump pickup gasket/o-ring and all other dirty jobs one can think of that would classify as preventative maintenance. Seems like a lot of work, but oil pressure isn't healthy enough to please me... next thread, Oil Pressure.

    ---Any idea if there a crank position sensor behind that balancer or will I find out during/after the aforementioned PM work? Since I will be in there, I'd like to test/clean/replace it.
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  4. hotcobra03

    hotcobra03 Active Member

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    no start

    i had an 88 t-coupe and had some problems like that...mine was the aux cam shaft for dist, broke

    found by removing dist cap and rotor didnt spin while cranking
    #4
  5. AKA3Toes

    AKA3Toes New Member

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    Timing Issue

    ---There's fire to all plugs; Though toward the end of troubleshooting, just to pacify, I had pulled the dizzy cap to verify the rotor button was turning.

    ---Moved to new thread, "Timing Issue" Thank you all.
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  6. Delray Dude

    Delray Dude New Member

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    computer isn't all that bad to get at. remove the passenger kick panel and it's right there. i think it's one 10 mm bolt that holds it in place and an 8 mm to undo the harness. (Might have them backwards, but reall isn't too bad. you can pull the brain and there is enough room on harness to set the computer on floorboard and test.
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