88 t-top mustang shell

hsean

10 Year Member
Jul 24, 2006
656
69
69
dearborn,michigan
supposed to pick it up this wednesday the drivers side rear quarter needs replacing and is completely gutted. traded a guy a set of flowmaster mufflers for it. the framerails are not bad ,the floors need replacing its a total basket case. just hated to see it gone to the crusher i'm thinking of trying to fix it i have a parts car complete with drivetrain for it. how difficult is it to replace a rear quarter?sorry no pics forgot camera at home
 
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I'll take it and it WILL get fixed how about that. LOL

this will be my second 88 t-top car my other project 88 t-top has rotted out front framerails and is sitting in my garage .i am trying to get my brother to store this one in his garage .but glad to see i am not the only one that doesn't like to see these cars crushed.it does need alot of bodywork and tlc will have to see where i go with this.
 
how ironic- I put a new rear quarter on my 88 ttops. Insist on factory tooling / high quality. The hardest part is cutting the right lines. After that its tracing cutting and welding. Take your time doing the body work, be sure to make seams for the existing metal. And do a good job on the spot welds on both the door jam and rear tail section!!!! GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN
 
how ironic- I put a new rear quarter on my 88 ttops. Insist on factory tooling / high quality. The hardest part is cutting the right lines. After that its tracing cutting and welding. Take your time doing the body work, be sure to make seams for the existing metal. And do a good job on the spot welds on both the door jam and rear tail section!!!! GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN

i am torn at which one to fix but probably will fix both this second one i think i want it to restore back to stock gt. when you say cutting the right lines where exactly are you cutting?
 
well once you get the new sheetmetal you dont want to cut too high!! (DOH!!!) Basically you want to cut underneath the 1/4 window and around the corner up about 4-5inches. then you take a nice clean cut horizontally across and down the seam where the hatch rides on. If you step the edge on the body, you can thrown down the welds, grind and fill it out. You literally can not tell once its all said and done. Factory spot welds were fugly as it is.