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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by stang89bidges, Mar 15, 2014.
still running stock intake. You have a suggestion?
Made a little more progress last night. Almost have everything back together. Just need to finish cleaning and oil my MAF and install radiator and new Proform Fan.
As I was cleaning up my radiator and getting it ready to install I noticed these two threaded holes. What are they and do they need to be capped? They look like maybe cooling connections for oil pump or something??
So then as I have all the pully's and contraptions bolted back on and go to install my nice brand new serpentine belt I do as I normally do and just start the process of elimination. Does it go this way? No. This way? No. Ok. Oh yeah, let's look at the documentation... Word to the wise, I always take pictures during dis-assembly so I can put stuff back together. But of course, something else goes wrong. The belt is too short??!! What? The numbers match up exactly from the old worn out belt to the new nice and shiny grip ready Dayco. WTF?
Turns out the alternator IS a larger diameter, which makes it push out from the smog pump further. Maybe .25 inch. Then the pully is also a larger diameter. Another .25 inch. Add that up and I am a 1/2 inch long for the new factory standard belt.
So I am off to the parts store for another go at finding a part that will most likely be a guessing game to find the right size belt. I will probably grab 2-3 belts and return the ones that don't fit so I have the part the first run and not make 2-3 trips... Unless anyone here knows what number I need
looks very nice. get an explorer intake upper and lower from the junkyard. should cost less than 75$ check ebay and craigslist you see them all the time. the explorer is the same intake used on the 93 cobra mustang it just looks different. for your street combo it will be a nice compliment. looks better to.
those holes in your radiator are for the trans. it has a built in cooler.
usually the last three digits for a belt are the length in inches. ex. a 5060560 50 is for the brand i think, 60 is the number of ribs ( 6 rib, 70 would be 7rib ect.) , 560 is 56"... good luck.
Thanks A91what. I found the belt. Thank the old brains I developed as getting the next 2 size belts worked. I almost just went with the next size up. It turns out the new alternator cost me an extra inch in total. Each size serpentine belt is measured by .5 inches. So my new size serpentine is 5060915. Factory is 5060905.
I got my supercharger all back together and cleaned up. Got some hoses installed. Got my door bracket cleaned, painted, and reinstalled with new door pin kit.
Cleaned my MAF sensor and casing. Will let it dry tonight and oil it up this weekend.
Don't feel like I made much progress tonight like I have the past two but I guess taking it slow and doing things right will make all the difference in the long run.
No more updates till the weekend. My daughter has gymnastics tomorrow night and I have a date on Friday. Us older single guys have to put chicks ahead of stangs or we will never get any! Otherwise I would be in the garage every night...
And that's for auto not manual tranny cooling right?
You are correct. The cooler in the radiator is for a factory auto trans.
I had a set back in the progress thread. Ended up with a warped head and had to break down the engine and put in new gaskets. Had the heads resurfaced. Didn't have the cash to upgrade the heads or anything else yet. As you can see I have already spent plenty on my wishlist from first page of this thread...
I didn't want to flood this progress thread with all the small details of the head gasket replacement so I made a new thread.
Head replacement thread - Click Here
Soon I will try and get my electric fan updates with pics in here. I have been having a time with the Pro-Form. It works fine but I may have made a mistake with some wiring so when I figure it out I will post.
Also, I may end up sending it back. I have an undersized radiator for my forced induction. I really need a dual core radiator and with that I would get a dual fan setup kit because this proform fan is too thick and will hit the pully addition from my vortec S/C addition.
I like this setup here, price is right too: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SVE-8005AK/1979-93-Mustang-Aluminum-Radiator-Fan-Assembly
Paid $150 for the Pro-Form. Return that for this fan and the cost is about the same. I think it will fit...
i was gonna order the sve but it was no stock so I got the mishimoto and with the blower the car deff runs cool
This setup should do the job.
Champion 2 core alum radiator- $160
Taurus E fan- new $75 used $35
FAL 33054 variable speed controller $110
Various wires, electrical connectors, fuses, etc $20
You know that adds up to me just purchasing the radiator. My pro-form was only $160 with variable temp control and manual override built in. I am definitely going to take a look into that Champion 2 core however!!
I am going to have LMRE replace the whole pro-form. I just found out it will work just fine with a new 2 or 3 cored radiator. The 1 core I have actually mounts in the brackets all the way butted up towards the engine. So the new 2 or 3 core will just simply fill in the space towards the front of car therefore not sacrificing any engine bay space.
I already purchased the fan. I completely wired up the fan in a professional manor. I love the fan. It's cfm's are super high compared to anything else for that price. I thought about returning the pro-form and going back to facory but I want to upgrade the cam, heads, intake, fuel injectors, MAF, etc, etc, at a later date so I think I will keep it..
My goal is to see 450-550hp by the time I am completely done with this beast. Pro-Form should do me right at that HP.
Update. I ended up blowing the heads on my stang 3 times now. On the 2nd time around I figured it was a clogged cooling system still causing it to overheat so I bought a new radiator since it was the last piece of the cooling system I had NOT replaced... I bought a dual core SVT aluminum from LateModelResto. It appears to be of really good quality but what do I know...
The heads still blew again after I installed the radiator of course. It's all apart of learning the hard way
I have another project thread running that you can see my progress in. I'm doing a full rebuild of the engine. It turns out I really didn't need a rebuild, everything in the engine was super pristine! I was still happy I pulled the engine though. I'm learning a lot and will have piece of mind that I will have fresh bearings. I was also talked into new ARP fasteners for the mains, rods, and heads so thats another piece of mind I will have strength for the new mods I have in my wishlist for later!
My engine rebuild thread - Fox - Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine | Mustang Forums at StangNet
Here is my wishlist again. Link on 1st post still works too. I have update the wishlist. I'm leaving everything I have bought on it so most of the top stuff I have already purchased and installed. You can see the installed items throughout this thread.
Wishlist Maintained by: Tom Wildt - LatemodelRestoration.com®
Supercharged 450+hp and only 24#inj?? Ahh NO! You need at least a 42# and a better MAF than the BBK. Look for a Pro-m or PMAS meter rated for the injectors. Also look into a Anderson ford Power pipe for the blower.
Looks like it's back to the drawing board...
I was thinking I would just start out small. My vortech v2 was a bolt on kit for a direct stock engine with no modifications. I'm not really sure what I'm doing here(obviously) so this was more of a reminder for me to research a little on what I would like/need. So when it comes to the vortech, it came with a power pipe that I figured was adequate for later upgrades. It also came with an upgraded K&N filter box with MAF for stock but upgrade ready(I think). I was thinking 24lb injectors with matching MAF sensor and an upgraded TB would be a good start.
I also want to get rid of the 2 different FPR's I have installed. The vortech came with a return(blue) FPR while it's still utilizing the stock fuel rail FPR. I'm assuming I can simply upgrade the fuel injectors, replace the fuel rail FPR with an adjustable one, and get rid of the vortech FPR?? I dunno, still researching this unless you know this one and wouldn't mind sharing your thoughts on the matter
Sounds like you have the Vortech FMU. I am not a Vortech expert by far. The FMU mechanically increases your fuel pressure to compensate for the lack of the proper sized injectors. You can remove that after changing to the bigger inj and MAF. If you are just going to stay at the "stock" blower power level (around 300rwhp) then you can just keep all that. People ran that way for years. Once you start spinning the blower harder you're going to need more fuel. The fmu is obsolete and inadequate for this. My best advise is to start another thread discussing your present combo and plans. Others with more experience will chime in and explain/help give better advise/info.
That is what I was thinking. If I change to a larger set of injectors and MAF I could dump that FMU(it is the vortech FMU). But what I don't know is how much larger of injectors do I need to go before it's ok to remove the FMU. Are 24lb enough or do I have to go bigger than that before I can dump the FMU.
I will probably do as you suggested later in the stage of upgrading. Currently my projections for these upgrades will be somewhere around 2017-2018.
At least 42# inj. With a forced induction setup you need more injector compared to a n/a combo. For the avg 400+rwhp build you need 42's. 24's are for your basic h/c/i 302 builds. Do a search on fuel injector sizing on this site or Google etc. @jrichker has an informative post on this subject.