90stang5speed Rear Mounted Turbo Project Thread
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This is my first build so, no I don't have any fiberglass experience unfortunately. I think it was muscle car that did the fender flares. I know that is where I got the idea for the fiberglass lift off hood. After a little research, I found some info on how one guy used blocks of foam from hobby lobby as a form for his. there is a type of foam that will melt if you try to use the fiberglass resin but I don't remember the name of that kind or the kind you should use. hopefully I will be able to find the info again when the time comes for it.
I kind of like the side scoop idea though.
Steal? you mean stole. There's already a pic of your car in your profile w/ 69 tailights photo shopped in.
(that'll be 1727.32 please
Sigh.
M-100L 1965 - 1966 Ford Shelby Fiberglass Brake Side Scoop Left
These are 65/66 Shelby side scoops. You can't build them for the 28.00 this guy charges. There are several models of these things at this link. Go there and save yourself some scratchin' and itchin'.
Widening the fenders, or quarters?
Either way, don't go getting all F.&F. on us. Just mount the scoops, and duct the air that would've went to the brakes through the quarters to your box.
The photo shop that I did was just some random LX. My car is red & has some retarded black racing stripe on the driver’s side only. I should have said quarter panels. I am bad about not using proper terminology. I checked out those side scoops. I wish they gave the dimensions of the scoops. My concept has a 3” x 6” opening & tapers back about 8”. I’m thinking of putting the lower edge of the scoop where the side molding used to be. I will have to get some pics up of how bad the quarters look now so you guys will see why I want to do the widening idea. The guy who had the car before me had beat them up pretty bad & when I lowered the rear suspension I had a rubbing issue so, since they already looked like crap, I beat them up even more. I was going for function over form at that time & regret that now.
Cobra912
Active Member
Neat project but my only concern is plumbing "exhaust" into a car. You do know that's a good way to kill yourself right?
I would agree that an exhaust leak could be deadly but, as an example, the M1A1 tank has a diesel fueled personnel heater that is mounted inside the vehicle with the crew. It uses a band clamp just like the one on my turbo exhaust only smaller. I have spent many hours inside a tank with the heater on with no Ill effects. I’m not trying to be a smart a** but, I’m not real worried about the fumes. Thank you for your concern for safety though. The others that have expressed their concerns about the heat or the turbo grenade that could go off behind me have inspired the heat shielding/safety box that I will be building. I called about the PMAS MAF & left a message but, I have not gotten a response yet. Body guys, feel free to chime in with tips on the scoops or quarter panel widening.
Other than I know that the quarters are rough, why do you want to widen them?
The process will be extensive, for the time you'll have in widening the quarters ( a process that will not be easily reversible if you don't like them ) you may as well go ahead and get some replacement quarters and weld them in place of the junkers. Maybe you could find some Capri quarters that have the wheel bulge already there?
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
I'm sure the other engineers on this forum will back me up (Mike, where are you?) when I warn you about the dangers of a turbine wheel spinning in excess of > 100,000 RPM two feet from your back, with nothing separating your spinal column from hot projectiles except 6 inches of seat padding and a prayer. Have you ever seen what happens to an SFI bellhousing when a clutch explodes at one tenth the RPM you'll be spinning that turbine wheel at full boost? Now imagine what happens to a non-SFI unit. Now imagine what would happen if there was nothing there at all. The distance between your standard volume (?) oil pump and the turbine shaft bearing it's supplying is also worrying me, and exacerbating the danger of a shaft failure due to oil starvation.
I respect that you're doing this all yourself, welding and getting your hands dirty, but I'm not going to pretend I think your mounting location and pipe routing is ideal. Please reevaluate the safety issues that are staring you in the face.
That all being said, I wish you luck and please know my criticism is constructive, with your personal well being in mind.
I respect that you're doing this all yourself, welding and getting your hands dirty, but I'm not going to pretend I think your mounting location and pipe routing is ideal. Please reevaluate the safety issues that are staring you in the face.
That all being said, I wish you luck and please know my criticism is constructive, with your personal well being in mind.
he said what I wanted to say but not be mean, because I could never ever build what youd did with all that welding it looks great and I wish i could do that.
but it just seems a bit dangerous at least build a second fire wall in there
The only other reason for widening the fenders is that I had a rubbing issue with the tires with my suspension lowered in an attempt to obtain a better instant center location & improve anti squat. The tires I had that were rubbing were MT 275 50 15’s mounted on 8.5 wide wheels with 5.5 back spacing. I want to move up to 295 55 15’s on 10” wide wheels. Space was a problem before so that could only get worse. I don’t really want to do a fuel cell or mini tubs because I already have the 10” wheels (with street tires mounted) on the car & the quarters are already damaged so I want to go that route. I think the rubbing was actually on that inner fender part not the rolled lip part of the quarter panel because the small cuts in the tire weren’t on the side wall. They were where the tread met the sidewall. Any body ever cut that part out of the way or is that what mini tubs are designned to replace?
From an engineer stand point, what thickness of metal would you recommend for a scatter shield to cover the turbo? As for the oil supply, I had a dumb a** moment & forgot to plug in the oil return pump. I already had the car warmed up from before. I started the car back up for my buddy to hear it run. I reved the engine one good time & oil sprayed out of the exhaust because too much oil had built up in the turbo just that fast.
Thanks for the safety concerns guys. I dont want my first project to be my last.
From an engineer stand point, what thickness of metal would you recommend for a scatter shield to cover the turbo? As for the oil supply, I had a dumb a** moment & forgot to plug in the oil return pump. I already had the car warmed up from before. I started the car back up for my buddy to hear it run. I reved the engine one good time & oil sprayed out of the exhaust because too much oil had built up in the turbo just that fast.
Thanks for the safety concerns guys. I dont want my first project to be my last.
Ok, Depending on the B/S of the 10's you get, they could be completely inside the wheel well. Mini tubs are infinitely easier than an entire quarter replacement or exterior widening job, and loads easier to finish than any exterior mod to the sheetmetal. My 10" wide wheels are 7.2" B/S'd and that is what required me to do my minitub. I think that you'll be able to get 6.5" B/S on traditional 15" wheels, but there will still be a positive displacement to a 10 over you 8.5 that will stick it out .5" over what you got. IDK, there may be a 7.00" B/S'd or more 10" wheel out there.
I'd build that box out of 1/8th plate. It'll be heavy, but you shouldn't have to worry about some junk flying around the passenger compartment should a failure take place. Clutch scatter shields are 3/16-1/4 thick, but they are intended to capture a much bigger disc.
1991notchbackLX
Active Member
If it was myself in the driver's seat, and the possibility of someone I care about in the passenger's seat, I'd build the box out of 1/4" plate. Whether it acts as a massive heat sink or not and weighs 100 pounds is yet to be seen, but at least you'll have peace of mind.
And before guys say I'm overreacting-- I operate steam driven turbines for a living, and the ones I stand in front of on a daily basis drive 1300 ton centrifugal compressors. Their max operating speed is 4600 RPM, sound like a jet engine taking off, and each unit is the size of a small house. You do not want to be within a city block of one of these if you starve the shaft bearings of lubricating oil...
And before guys say I'm overreacting-- I operate steam driven turbines for a living, and the ones I stand in front of on a daily basis drive 1300 ton centrifugal compressors. Their max operating speed is 4600 RPM, sound like a jet engine taking off, and each unit is the size of a small house. You do not want to be within a city block of one of these if you starve the shaft bearings of lubricating oil...
With the 5.5 BS I had less than a ½” between the tire & things to the inside so for the 10” wide wheel, I went with a 5” BS because I was afraid that a wider section with tire might bulge out further. I didn’t want to use Capri quarters because their bulge has sharper angles than what I’m looking for. I want the quarters to be wider but, I want it to be a little less aggressive. The functional scoops are already going to take care of that. I also was thinking 1/8” steel for the turbo shield. I will go ahead with that plan.
Here are some pics for you guys. The pic of the rear of the car shows some of the red neck riggin done by the previous owner. The black MUSTANG lettering isn’t paint, its electrical tape lol. I also hate the single racing stripe.
View attachment rearview.jpg
The passenger side Quarter damage.
View attachment passengersidequarterdam.jpg
The Driver’s side quarter damage.
Top view of the side scoop mock up.
View attachment topviewofscoop.jpg
Front view of the side scoop mock up.
Rear view of the side scoop mock up.
View attachment rearviewofscoop.jpg
The heat / scatter shield mock up with rerouted plumping after the inner cooler was deleted. I didn’t think about it at the time but, Im going to go back & turn the turbo housing 90* clockwise so the compressor outlet faces forward the front instead of up.
I havent got around to getting that sound clip yet but, after I turn the turbo housing & get my tune loaded up, I hope to get the sound clip posted up with a pic of the turned housing & plumbing.
View attachment rearview.jpg
The passenger side Quarter damage.
View attachment passengersidequarterdam.jpg
The Driver’s side quarter damage.
Top view of the side scoop mock up.
View attachment topviewofscoop.jpg
Front view of the side scoop mock up.
Rear view of the side scoop mock up.
View attachment rearviewofscoop.jpg
The heat / scatter shield mock up with rerouted plumping after the inner cooler was deleted. I didn’t think about it at the time but, Im going to go back & turn the turbo housing 90* clockwise so the compressor outlet faces forward the front instead of up.
I havent got around to getting that sound clip yet but, after I turn the turbo housing & get my tune loaded up, I hope to get the sound clip posted up with a pic of the turned housing & plumbing.
The Reason for the scoops is for ducting the heat out on the driver’s side & ducting fresh air into the turbo inlet on the passenger side. The next couple pics will show the new routing of the turbo plumbing & the over 5 ft of plumbing plus 2 ft of inner cooler that I removed. Like Mike (madmike1157) said, with the meth injection, my air charge temp should be at or near ambient without the inner cooler. I can only hope that I can sell the thing on craigslist or something & maybe get half what I paid for it. I’m hoping with the shorter plumbing, the turbo will actually be more responsive and build boost quicker as it will have a lot less distance to travel to get to the engine.
View attachment turboplumbingrerouted.jpg
View attachment deletedplumbinginnercoo.jpg
View attachment turboplumbingrerouted.jpg
View attachment deletedplumbinginnercoo.jpg
A for effort...not such a high grade for the overall idea. Just being honest i think this is just a misguided idea.
Love some of the other things youve done with the car, just personally not a fan of driving around with a grenade behind my back. Seen too many turbos give up the ghost to really feel comfortable.
Using outlaw cars etc. as a reference really has no place here,as this is on a far different scale in terms of parts, technology, budget and safety. There are just so many other proven ways of putting a turbo on a fox. Good luck with the project, honestly hope it turns out well for you. I just wouldnt suggest it to anyone else
Love some of the other things youve done with the car, just personally not a fan of driving around with a grenade behind my back. Seen too many turbos give up the ghost to really feel comfortable.
Using outlaw cars etc. as a reference really has no place here,as this is on a far different scale in terms of parts, technology, budget and safety. There are just so many other proven ways of putting a turbo on a fox. Good luck with the project, honestly hope it turns out well for you. I just wouldnt suggest it to anyone else
You know, I'm sitting here, reading about all the stuff you're going through to make the system safe, and work, and I get to thinking.
Maybe you should ask yourself why that turbo is in the car w/ you in the first place? What was the original reason for the plan? If you want it to perform as good as it's gonna get, You gotta know that the shorter path is going to be the most responsive, and make the most power. Not to mention all of the extra heat your gonna have to deal with w/ that stuff inside in the middle of August.
If that turbo was in the engine compartment, the intercooler almost becomes a necessary part of the system. I say almost, because you are using a Snow cooler, and people are using that as the sole I/C for racing applications, so you could still in theory delete the a/a intercooler altogether. I know you have conventional headers, and you'll have to build a exhaust system around the revamp, and probably have to sell your longtubes, but.......
Before you go building a vault to encase the turbo, and cutting up a pair of quarters to duct air through, ( cause regardless of the condition of the ones you got, you're still gonna fix those or replace them w/ something else, and why add another hole that you may have to fix if you don't like the way the system works after you get it running for all it's worth?)
You may want to consider what might be the lesser of two evils, and just put the turbo up front?
You obviously have a plan,...but consider this: For every successful flight of Orville and Wilbur Wright, there were dozens of Wylie Coyote types making a little poof after falling to the bottom of the canyon when their Acme flying suits came apart.
Like 85 ss 302 said......" I'm just sayin'
"
Beasty306GT
Active Member
i dont think its a good idea to have the turbo in the car..do yourself a favor and put it under the hood where it belongs....just asking for trouble with it inside..plus i would think its illegal to have that in the car for safety reasons
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