92 foxbody gt running rich all the time. NO POWER

so here is the story.. abt a year ago i bought my first foxbody mustang.. motor was blown in it. and was missing a lot of parts.. well my uncle and i built a new 306 to put in it. after putting the new motor in. we had a few problems, first it was a weak spark isuess... turned out to be a bad ground in the distrubutor..had a surging problem at idle, turned out to be a bad iac valve.. But still havnt figured out the running rich problem yet.. pulled codes.. only codes was a low voltage to egr solenoid... But guy who had it before me deleted egr system.. so no help there.. replaced o2sensors, coolant temp sensor, tps sensor. iac valve. bbk maf sensor calibrated for the 24# injectors i installed.. Has a adjustable bbk fuel regulator on it.. turned fuel pressure down to 27psi at idle... runs a little better but still rich.. heres my engine build.. was not sure if the 24lb injectors is wat i need for this setup.. any kind of help i can get would be greatly appreciated!! msd coil, spectra cold air intake, factor 55mm throttle body, trick flow upper lower plenium.. stock roller cam,GT40P heads, equal length short headers, 3inch H pipe exhaust... was thinking maybe need to run a bigger throttle body?

No code 11 (two flashes when the computer dumps the codes)? The 11 code is computer passed its internal self test.
If you don't get an 11, you have computer or wiring problems.
Please check and repost.


Got a code 11? Then start here...

Testing the O2 sensors 87-93 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear.

87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.

91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a Gray/Lt blue wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a Red/Black wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Testing the O2 sensors 94-95 5.0 Mustangs
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a red/black wire) and 27 (RH O2 with a gray/lt blue wire). Use pin 32 (gray/red wire) to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer. Using the Low Ohms range (usually 200 Ohms) you should see less than 1.5 Ohms.

87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Dark blue/Lt green wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Dark blue/Lt green wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Dark Green/Pink wire on the computer pin 43

91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 29

94-95 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 29 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 27 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 29
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH Os sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 27

There is a connector between the body harness and the O2 sensor harness. Make sure the connectors are mated together, the contacts and wiring are not damaged and the contacts are clean and not coated with oil.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness.

Welcome to StangNet!

I take it your rich diagnosis is from seeing soot, or having fouled plugs? A bigger TB wouldn't be a bad idea to match up to the bigger MAF and injectors, but I'm not so sure that's your problem. Where's your timing at? Is your spout in?

i apologize there was a 11 code as well.. il be sure to check the 02 sensors when i get home.. il let you know what i find out

timing is set @ 14 degrees.. unhooked spout to set base time reinstalled after it was set... seems to run better if i give it more tho.. and yes soot, and fouled plugs. can sometimes smell the fuel. if i turn it over and it doesnt start right up. seems like its floods.. have to hold pedal to the floor to start it..

Yeah you have something going on for sure, that combo should be have no problem with the stock ECU trimming the A/F ratio down at idle.

thanks for the welcoming!! guy from my work been trying to get me to join for a while.. thought id give it a try!

ok got home. pulled four codes this time 11, 31 ,67, 85 and is the 11 code suppose to be the same kind of blinks as the other codes? cuz it blinks twice but very dim and more of a flickering two times, not solid blinks like the rest of them.. its weird

11 = self test pass
31 = PVE/EVP circuit below min voltage
67 = Neutral safety circuit fail
85 = Canister purge solenoid fail

I'm sure jrichker can clarify these better, but I used one of those resistor doohickeys from fordfuelinjection.com to plug into my EGR connector, and wired in one for the can purge. I'm not sure if any of those would cause it to run slobbering rich. You mentioned the PO deleted the EGR system; did he just dike off the wires and put a plate over the EGR passages, or what? The 67 code just tells me you might not have your transmission harness connected, or possibly a broken wire...which might be something to investigate. I just looked on the website mentioned above, and they have pinouts for all the connectors and one of the NDS wires resides with the O2 sensors...might have something there, but I'd figure you'd have other codes for O2 volts being off...?

Silly question, but have you checked all your grounds?

yes po just unhooked and put a plate over egr passages.. I will check trans harness.. iv checked, cleaned, all grounds i could find, installed dielectric grease on them as well as most electrical connectors,

Ok, so I googled how to fix code 31 on Mustang, and came up with a ton of stuff (much of it on here...). Most of it involves replacing the EVR and EGR valve. If you don't feel like doing that (and I probably wouldn't either) you could install the resistor trio from RJM technologies (http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/egr-eliminator). This is what I used for 6 years and never had an issue with it running rich. I know, I know...it involves computer trickery, and many don't care for doing that but depending on how you feel about running the EGR system (and TAB, TAD, and Can purge solenoids), the only other alternative I know of is to have a chip burned for it.

I'm sure if I'm wrong here, correction will come quickly...the more I read about it, the more I'm thinking disconnecting the EGR system will cause your issues. I never experienced it that way because I went from carb to EFI and just installed the resistors before installing the harness.

CODE: 31 (KOEO) - EVP circuit below minimum voltage. Vref (5 volt reference voltage supplied by the computer) missing or broken wire or bad connection in circuit. Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or MAP sensor located on the firewall near the center of the car. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.
With the sensor removed from the EGR and still connected, press the plunger and watch the voltage change on the brown/lt green wire. Pull the passenger side kick panel and measure the voltage at the computer. You will need to remove the plastic cover over the wires and probe them from the backside. A safety pin may prove very useful for this task. Use pin 27, EVR input (brown/lt green wire) and pin 46, signal ground (black/white wire) to measure the voltage. The orange/white wire is Vref and should always be 5 volts -/+ .25 volt. Be sure to measure Vref at the EGR sensor to rule out any broken wires or bad connections.
Measuring the voltage at the computer helps you spot broken wiring and intermittent connections.
See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.



Code 67 –
Revised5 Jan 2012 to add warning of possible idle surge condition due to code 67

Cause of problem:
clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests. External evidence from other sources claims that a code 67 can cause an idle surge condition. Do try to find and fix any issues with the switch and wiring if you get a code 67.

The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The following is for 5 speed cars only.
The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!



Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.



It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:


Check to see that the line for the carbon cansiter isn't plugged directly into the itake manifold without having the purge solenoid. That would cause the engine to continously suck fumes fro mthe gas tank and account for your rich condition.

Some basic theory to clarify how things work is in order…

EGR System theory and testing

The EGR shuts off at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), so it has minimal effect on performance. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping. It can also reduce HC emissions by reducing fuel consumption. The primary result of EGR usage is a reduction in NOx emissions.

The EGR system has a vacuum source (line from the intake manifold) that goes to the EVR, computer operated electronic vacuum regulator. The EVR is located on the back of the passenger side shock strut tower. The computer uses RPM, Load. and some other factors to tell the EVR to pass vacuum to open the EGR valve. The EGR valve and the passages in the heads and intake manifold route exhaust gas to the EGR spacer (throttle body spacer). The EGR sensor tells the computer how far the EGR valve is open. Then computer adjusts the signal sent to the EVR to hold, increase or decrease the vacuum. The computer adds spark advance to compensate for the recirculated gases and the slower rate they burn at.




Troubleshooting:
There should be no vacuum at the EGR valve when at idle. If there is, the EVR (electronic vacuum regulator) mounted on the backside of the passenger side wheelwell is suspect. Check the vacuum line plumbing to make sure the previous owner didn’t cross the vacuum lines.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds. (the diagram says 88 GT, but the EGR part is the same for 86-93 Mustangs)


The EGR sensor is basically a variable resistor, like the volume control on a radio. One end is 5 volt VREF power from the computer (red/orange wire). One end is computer signal ground (black/white), and the middle wire (brown/lt green) is the signal output from the EGR sensor. It is designed to always have some small voltage output from it anytime the ignition switch is the Run position. That way the computer knows the sensor & the wiring is OK. No voltage on computer pin 27 (brown/lt green wire) and the computer thinks the sensor is bad or the wire is broken and sets code 31. The voltage output can range from approximately .6-.85 volt.

The EVR regulates vacuum to the EGR valve to maintain the correct amount of vacuum. The solenoid coil should measure 20-70 Ohms resistance. The regulator has a vacuum feed on the bottom which draws from the intake manifold. The other vacuum line is regulated vacuum going to the EGR valve. One side of the EVR electrical circuit is +12 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side of the electrical circuit is the ground path and is controlled by the computer. The computer switches the ground on and off to control the regulator solenoid.



EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.

connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve or see the EGR test jig drawing below. Connnect the test jig or to directly to manifold vacuum.

Do not connect the EGR test jig to the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator).

apply 5in vacuum to the valve. Using the test jig, use your finger to vary the vacuum

if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.

if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.

if engine stumbled, connect EGR test jig to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve.
Use your finger to cap the open port on the vacuum tee.
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?
if not the EVR has failed

EGR test jig


To test the computer and wiring to the computer, you can use a test light across the EVR wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker. If the test light remains on the computer or the wiring is suspect.

To check the EVR to computer wiring, disconnect the EVR connector and connect one end of the Ohmmeter to the dark green wire EVR wiring. Remove the passenger side kick panel and use a 10 MM socket to remove the computer connector from the computer. Set the Ohmmeter to high range and connect the other ohmmeter lead to ground. You should see an infinite open circuit indication or a reading greater than 1 Meg Ohm. If you see less than 200 Ohms, the dark green wire has shorted to ground somewhere.

Late Model Restoration may still have the Ford Racing M-12071-N302 kit with the EGR valve & sensor along with the ACT & ECT sensors for $45. See http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=M12071N302 1&comp=LRS for more details[/b]

Check your MAP sensor. I recently had the same problem and it ended up being the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor...it was dry-rotted and cracked. I changed the sensor and the vacuum line...problem solved...no more running rich, no more fouled plugs, no more black smoke, no more smelling fuel.

'92s don't have a MAP sensor, they have a BP sensor that looks the same and is in the same location, but measures barometric pressure instead of manifold pressure...that being said, checking vacuum lines isn't a bad idea, but if he had a vacuum leak, it would run lean.

I'd take a look at that carbon can solenoid. If it were stuck open or leaking, it could be a major vac leak. That would make yer O2 sensors go lean and the ECU would go nuts trying to richen things up.

EGR delete should never create a running problem unless it's a vac leak.

N safety switch should not create a running problem.

Go after that carbon can solenoid.

What is making you think it is running rich? Do you have a wideband? When the motor was put together was the distributor stabbed correctly?

Yeah, he said it fouls plugs, spits soot, smells rich, and floods...sounds like rich symptoms to me.

A major vacuum leak will cause it to go lean...the computer would compensate, but not so much to the point where it runs as fat as he's saying.

The EGR delete "shouldn't" cause a running rich problem unless the valve is stuck open-that I have seen. But, it's not there.

I agree with the NDS bit though...I don't think that would cause any issue that he's experienced

The can purge solenoid though...if it's there and stuck open, it'll cause you problems, but is his even there?

If it aint... and it aint plugged...

ok. If that is the case the o2's are prob ruined..sounds like a mass air mismatch problem to me.. Is the mass air meter clean? A dirty one can cause a lot of issues. Speaking from experience.