92 Gt W/351w Advice Needed

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I got myself a 1992 gt with a 351w in it for a good price. the car does need help which is why I got it cheap. car is a reconstructed title, second gear grinds, and generally this is a budget swap that someone did with mostly not the greatest parts. interior is red but is in surprisingly good shape. pretty much every fender has a dent or a ding. some of them big, both the doors are in good shape, rear bumper has a tear etc etc etc. this car has had a pretty rough life it looks like.

I have been looking for a 351w to swap into my coupe for awhile. with the cost of all the swap parts it seemed that it was going to get pretty expensive. then I found this car. me and the seller agreed on 1100. I told him I really only cared about the motor and the rebuildable trans. the rest I would part out and then scrap whatever was left over.

the motor is a 1974 block- anybody know where the numbers are so I can verify this. I know the f4te block number is in the lifter valley for roller blocks. but I don't really know where else the numbers are for other ones.
edelbrock 60379 heads- they are the 1.90 intake valve heads not the 2.02
professional products upper and lower intake
crane cam. totally blanking on the numbers but I will get them later
30lbs injectors
70mm egr spacer- no name brand
bbk 75mm throttle body
70mm mass air sensor- he has no idea if it was calibrated to the injectors which probably means it isn't
bbk shorty headers
flexacool radiator- not flexilite I am sure it is some Chinese knockoff

my idea is to get this cars drivetrain running really well. it surges and crap now which isn't that big of a deal. I haven't really looked into what the actual problem is.

I have always wanted to try my luck with carbs but didn't want to tank the value or be stuck with a carbed car forever. this car is pretty much worthless and nobody will want it because of the interior and title problems. so I think this is the perfect chance to have some fun with a carb setup. this car isn't a daily or a track car. I will probably take it to the track a couple times just for fun. I will also probably only drive it 2-4000 miles a year.

If I was to do this from scratch I simply would have bought a roller block got afr 185 heads or trick flow 170's intake, carb, and cam and be done with it. obviously that would be pretty expensive. so I figured with this car I will see how the car and intake do with the current heads and then take it from there. I don't really see me getting great numbers from the 60379 heads but since I have them it is worth a try.

my part selection is what I need help with. I am thinking this

holley 750 vacuum secondary carb
edelbrock performer rpm intake 2181 which is idle to 5000 or the 7181 model which is 1500-6000. which one do you think would be better.
from what I have read a vacuum advance dist. is best for the street. if I get a cheap one from a older car at the parts store I will still need a box to run it right? how about some of those msd ready to run dizzys? they are obviously a little pricey but seems like it might be a good setup.

I plan on running a mechanical fuel pump. my timing cover looks like an older version because it already has the threaded holes for the pump. if you look in the hole where the pump lever would go it is blocked off. can I just take the timing cover off and dremel out the opening? it isn't a block off plate but it is blocked off when it was casted it looked like.

I will post some pics from my phone later. you guys wil love the intake tube setup... hopefully you sense the sarcasm.

any advice is appreciated, no idea is silly enough and no warning is lost on what not to do with this car.


thanks,
adam

 

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everyone loves pics. here's the poor car

 

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this is the cam

Mustang COMP Cams Camshaft Set Xtreme Energy XE274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet 1800-6000 RPM 351W | CJ Pony Parts

.519/.523 274/286

 

[a91what]

intake tube

I say go for it carb it up and play. All the top end parts will sell well on ebay.

 

[stykthyn]

Yikes. Stick with the original plan and part that beast out.

 

[84Ttop]

You will not want a mechanical fuel pump... dremeling the hole open is not the answer either as it is not likely that there is a fuel pump eccentric on the cam gear.

 

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i can easily by a fuel pump ecenntric for 41 dollars.

i can also get the right timing cover for 80 but figured if i had to take this one off anyways why not machine out that opening and reuse it.

this is what is looks like

 

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turns out the motor is a 71. now i can ordee timing cober gaskets and stuff to get the front of the motor ready for the carb swap.

what do you guys think is the best way to sell the bulk of the efi stuff? keep it on the car so people can hear the car run and know the stuff works or does that not really matter?

 

[a91what]

EBay that ish... or post it up on here in the classifieds

 

[addermk2]

Keep your efi... you'll really be happy you did

 

[stykthyn]

If it's a track car no need for that efi system. The 351 already had that particular set up maxed out.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

The cam specs for your listed cam will have the engine probably run out of steam between 5, and 5500 rpm. I would buy the higher rated intake, as I doubt you'll feel the difference between the two w/ regard to any loss on the low end of the rpm band. If you convert it to an old vacuum advance distributor, at the very least, you'll need a duraspark ignition box as well, or a MSD 6/ Mallory Hyfire, etc. ignition amplifier. ( I'd ditch the vacuum advance, and " lock" the advance mechanism, and just set the timing total between 32, and 36 degrees)
The carb is always a point of contention, as everybody wants to put too much instead of the one that belongs there, and end up hurting themselves in the end. As long as it's a vacuum secondary carb, a 750 will work, but a 650 version would be better suited. ( considerably more expensive than a 3310, but again,...it's the right carb).

Lastly, before you can do anything carb related, you gotta deal with/ the tank. In order for the current efi system to work, the po must've used the efi in tank pump that is stock to that car. You'll have to remove that, and either fabricate a method to draw the fuel out of the tank through the stock opening on top, or replace the sending unit cover w/ an older unit that had a filtered siphon tube integrated into it, or replace the tank w/ pre 86? Unit that has the provisions for the carb integrated already.
Only after you deal with that can you consider using a carb, and a mechanical pump, which I wouldn't use either. You'll appreciate being able to turn off the fuel supply if you ever need to crank the engine ( adjusting valves, checking compression, setting static timing) and having a mechanical pump pee all over you on every stroke of the engine, will be one of those " why did I install thus dumb assed thing" questions you won't have to ask yourself if you install a good electric unit instead.

 

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madmike1157, i dont see a vacuum seondary 650 carb. they all seem to be the double pumper versions.

i got most of the front stuff off the car today like the fan, shroud, pulleys, and balancer. not really sure how most people usually get the crank bolt out but i wish i did it when the belt was still on. this was my solution which worked well.

just need to drain the coolant take the pointer and smog bracket that attaches to the timing cover off and then all the timing cover bolts. hopefully it pops right off. i dont plan on taking the water pump off the timing cover so i wont have to replace that gasket. once i see if there is a cam ecentric on it or not i will order all my parts.

i am going to stick with the mechanical pump for now. if i dont like it i can always just use the block off plate and go the electric route

 

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have my first assmebly question about the cam eccentric. i thought the tab would go in where there is a pin. am i wrong or does that pin need to come out. doesnt make much sense since that locates the timing gear

 

[addermk2]

Pin is too short. Needs to be replaced with a longer one.

 

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i think it is the opposite. i need a shorter one so the tab fits in that slot.

 

[addermk2]

Ive never seen a fuel pump eccentric with a tang on it (left)
I've only seen them with a dowel pin hole (right)

 

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i have a comp cams camshaft and i wonder if this is what i need

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-235

maybe it comes with the right size dowel. either way i either need to remove it or cut it down. i am not looking forward to either option to be honest. i heard the comp cam pin is a pita to get out.

 

[84Ttop]

At the risk of sounding rude, this whole gyration of making the fuel pump eccentric work would have been eliminated if you used an electric pump?

 

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At the risk of sounding rude, this whole gyration of making the fuel pump eccentric work would have been eliminated if you used an electric pump?

what fun would that be. like i said before i can try this route and if i cant figure it out i will go the electric route.