93 door locks..... what a pain

Hey guys

Just installed new lock actuators. locks were not working before install. I had removed one in the past because it had siezed up.

The locks are still not working. I have power to the switch and and switches are working correctly. I seem to have a open circut between the two switches that feed out to RH actuator and ends at LH actuator. I also ran jumper wires between switches to test my theory and the worked.

Any info on routing of the wiring or any problamatic connections. thanks
 
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Ive had this happen in the past. The switches themselves can be taken apart. There are little metal pieces in there that get gunked up and corroded. I took all my switches apart and cleaned em up with steel wool and worked perfect afterwards
 
thanks for the info. but im still thinking its a open circuit.I replaced wires 119 and 120 with jumper wires and it worked. I will try today and repport back.
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Check the wiring connectors for the doors hidden behind the kick panels. You may have a corroded connection or broken wire The passenger side is especially prone to this due to water leakage from the radio antenna.
 
Victory!!! Bad remote unlock wiring. harness was spliced badly, leading to a open circuit @ LH door hinge plug. It was a little hard to spot because mine was hidden behind a plastic shield above kick panel. I gaind access by removing corner speaker cover and moving holder asembly. by the way it routes through the rubber boot and up and along the defrost vents to the othe door
 
Victory!!! Bad remote unlock wiring. harness was spliced badly, leading to a open circuit @ LH door hinge plug. It was a little hard to spot because mine was hidden behind a plastic shield above kick panel. I gaind access by removing corner speaker cover and moving holder asembly. by the way it routes through the rubber boot and up and along the defrost vents to the othe door

Good work! It's nice to see someone else with electrical talent.