94 GT...ditch the E303?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Bowers, Jun 20, 2008.


  1. Bowers

    Bowers New Member

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    I've got a '94 GT with the following.

    '90 302 short block bored .30 over for a 306.
    Scat forged crank.
    Scat forged rods.
    Probe forged pistons.
    E303 cam.
    AFR 165cc heads.
    Crane 1.7 RR's
    Crane springs and retainers.
    Typhoon intake.
    70mm throttle body.
    75mm MAFS.
    FRPP 24lb injectors.
    MAC CAI.
    MSD cap and rotor.
    MSD wires.
    BBK adj. FPR.
    BBK longtubes.
    BBK shorty O/R X.
    Mac mufflers.



    and some stuff I probably left out.

    Car makes decent power 306rwhp and 323ft/lbs on a Mustang dyno tuned with Diablosport. I can't stand the e303 cam, it makes good power but the ecm hates it and will not idle to save it's life. I've checked for vac leaks and nothing, I've also ran a vac reserve canister to try to correct the problem. I've heard of lots of people having problems with the Ford alphabet cams on the 94-95's. I would like to run the TFS1 cam, any insight would be great.
  2. DDSTANG94

    DDSTANG94 New Member

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    With a tune u shouldn't have problems....I think u are making pritty good power with that cam....more power than most see with the same combo...with that, I think if it is tuned, it is either not tuned correctly or u have a mechanical issue.....

    u can probably do better with a different cam and a good tune....but like i said before u are making good power!
  3. ProKiller

    ProKiller Founding Member

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    i had the f303 and it didn't have any problems idling. i think there are a bunch other cams out there that are better and might net you more power, but is it worth the time/cost of tearing it all down to replace it? i wouldn't. i'd try to fix the idle first, then if that didn't work switch cams.

    did you check your IAS, MAS for dirt, and your timing?
  4. Bowers

    Bowers New Member

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    Yeah, I replaced the IACV, checked the voltage on the TPS and cleaned the MAS. The only thing I found kind of weird was the ECU in the car right now says it's for a '95 GT and when I gave my vin to the dealership to see what ECU should be in it they gave me a code for a '94 V6 ecu...but the vin checks out as a '94 GT. Base timing is set at stock 10*.
  5. vp5.0

    vp5.0 New Member

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    i ve have e 303 on my setup and it idles just fine but ofcorse after it was tune...
  6. Bowers

    Bowers New Member

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    I'll have to strap it back on the dyno and go over my tune again.
  7. greenlantern

    greenlantern Member

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    Im running the TFS stage 1 cam. But your problem isn't the cam its the tune. Until you get that computer situation under control it won't matter what cam you stick in there unless of course its one designed for the 94-95 computer.
  8. Bowers

    Bowers New Member

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    Went over the tune...change some stuff with the MAS...still does the surging and dies.

    It's weird though the car runs smooth when cold then I drive it for a little bit and it starts to act up....I'm about to pull it all apart and start over lol.
  9. Bullitt95

    Bullitt95 Active Member

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    ProKiller's right. Try to fix the idle first and if you reach the end of your mettle, then go for the cam swap 'cause it's not going to be a stroll in the park. With your combo I'd go for the CompCams XE270HR-12. It'll give you a smoother idle than the E303 (LSA 112* v 110* for the E cam) and more low rev torque, while giving away very little at higher rpm. I'm sure you'll find it much more fun to drive.
    A good tune might sort the problem out so it's worth a try. You're making good torque and the HP ain't bad either, but I think there's a little more HP hidden in there and the tune might bring it up closer to 320.
    Post the dyno sheets if you get a chance so we can take a look.
  10. final5-0

    final5-0 Mustang Master

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    I say this info is along the lines of my thinking

    I as well woluld like to see your dyno results :D

    306 to the wheels is pretty good on a Dynojet :)
    but
    On a Mustang Dyno :eek:

    Sounds like you got a nice combo there :nice:

    Yes ... as a general rule of thumb ........
    the more narow the lsa .....
    the more likely you're gonna run into drivability issues :(

    I'm sitting at 109 with mine
    and
    I will confess that I had to work with it a bit :Word:

    What did you mean by ... "I went over the tune" :scratch:

    Do you have a way to change your chip values :shrug:

    Grady
  11. Bowers

    Bowers New Member

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    I work in a shop with a Mustang Dyno, as far as values go I'm running a Diablosport Revolution chip that allows you to do quite a bit. I was running an SCT chip at first but someone took off with my SCT ford program. Yeah I agree with the LSA needing to be around 112-115 for the 94-95's to get along with it. I'll try to get sheets up asap I've got 2 that I was compairing...Looks like the 306rwhp and 323ft/lbs was on a Dynojet and right at 280rwhp on the Mustang dyno, this was also on a fairly hot day around 95-98 with quite a bit of humidity.
  12. Venom351R

    Venom351R Founding Member

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    I'll sell you a Crower 15512 at a good price :D
  13. Black95GTS

    Black95GTS Active Member

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    What do you have the car idling at via the tune?

    Adam
  14. sg68

    sg68 New Member

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    wont idel

    make sure your orange ground wire is connected... its for your o2 sensors.
  15. Bowers

    Bowers New Member

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    Just below 1k, got most of the surging cleaned up messing with the TPS....But for some reason it still likes to surge a bit if I take the caps off the cutouts.:shrug:
  16. Carzzi

    Carzzi New Member

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    Steeda has a new-ish grind for the '94-'95 5.0, the #19. They claim :
    "Steeda proudly offers the #19 Cam, similar to the popular #18 Cam, but with a slightly wider lobe separation angle for better vacuum at idle which is required by the more sensitive 94-95 Mustang..."
    Steeda #19 Camshaft - '85-'95 Ford Mustang
  17. final5-0

    final5-0 Mustang Master

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    I think Steeda's statement about vacuum at idle is kinda interesting :eek:

    If they ... like a lot of people ... think that will help with the pcm :shrug:

    Well ... So far ... I've not seen anything in the pcm that looks to be
    vacuum related :scratch: :shrug:

    Honestly ... most peeps who do a cam ..........
    They got all the rest of the Hot Rod parts that goes along with it :Word:

    In a nutshell ... not only the cam ... but all those other parts .......

    They ALL have pushed the pcm so far beyond its adaptive limit :crazy:

    Well ... That is what the drivability part of a Custom Tune ... is all about ;)

    You just reprogram the pcm to work with all the new stuff :banana:

    Grady
  18. drop92

    drop92 New Member

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    i was having the idle idle issue with the ecam on a stock tune, i did replace alot of sensors but i was able to get it fixed............. first wat i did was put a spacer on the air bypass valve to control the idle better and it made a big difference but still kinda surged, then i went and replaced the ECT sensor and that fixed it...... my car idles perfect and no more surging.......
    the ect sensor is only $50 buks from ford... the spacer is also available at ford but i dont have a part #........hopefully this info helps you!!!
  19. Bowers

    Bowers New Member

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    Yeah it's weird it only surges after I run it for awhile and it gets warm.
  20. drop92

    drop92 New Member

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    mines did exactly the same thing, i can almost assure u that the ECT sensor would fix that issue and the spacer..;...... if you replace those items, remember to reset your ECU

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