94 Mustang - Car Shuts Off While Driving

[Ryan M.]

94 mustang, 347, start and drives fine, then this weekend it stalled out and left me stranded - would start for one second then immediately die.

Given that I've had a bunch of work done to it, dyno tune, chip burned etc I started trying a few things. Unplugging the mass air to see if it would fire, then as a last ditch idea, I pulled the spout connector and it started right up and drove to allow me to get home.

It threw 543 codes + 564 (Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Failure 543 + Fan Relay564). I replaced the CCRM and the car drove great last night and then this morning on the way to work. No codes after that, other than 511 and 565 KOEO, and 116 KOER.

I went to get lunch, and the thing stalled again on me. I pulled the spout and got back to work. No codes other than the 511, 565, 116 this afternoon either.

Anyone know why this might happen? And why pulling the spout would allow the car to drive again?

I've read everything from bad PIP, BAD TFI, Bad Computer, Bad Ground etc. I have another car I can pull parts from and test, but what do you think is the best step. The last thing I want to try is the distributor, because I'm wary of getting the thing timed right again.

 

[jozsefsz]

The reading you've done is good, it's probably going to be one of those items. Checking grounds is always good, and should be pretty easy to do. Most commonly causing your symptoms are probably the PIP & TFI. TFI's fairly easy to swap, try that first and see if it's good. If not, it might well be the PIP, and the distributor needs to come out like it or not. I'd save the computer for last, it's probably just fine. The TFI & PIP usually don't throw any codes at all.

Timing's very easy to set if you have an inductive timing light. Mark 10 degrees BTDC on the balancer with some white paint, mark the old distributor (at the hold-down bolt and the rotor to the distributor body), and put the new one in roughly the same way. Pull the spout, hook the timing light to the battery and the number 1 plug wire, and you'll be set in 30 seconds or less. Your local parts store might even loan a timing light out, or perhaps you have a friend that has one (most old-timers do ).

 

[advent]

I had a problem like yours and I changed CCRM and PIP sensor without results. Ignition coil and ignition module (TFI) was new .

In the end, was a loose pin in the fuel pump hanger electrical connector causing a intermitent bad contact .

Had to buy a new fuel pump hanger and that solved the problem .

 

[toyman]

Most likely the PIP (Hall Effect Sensor) in the distributor. I believe that by removing the "spout" connector the PIP signal is not referenced by the PCM, The timing is locked at the base setting which is somewhere between 10* - 14*. The ignition module isn't usually a problem part on the SNs like it was on earlier years when it was attached to the distributor.

 

[CorbinGT]

I had this problem with my old 95 GT...turned out to be my MSD distributor with 5K miles on it gone bad. So like what others said I'd check the PIP or the distributor in general. I took the cap off mine to see plastic shavings inside it. I know it sucks but give it a look because this problem had me stumped for almost a month! Never thought that my new distributor would've gone bad...

 

[StangRider1]

My 95 did something similar when the stator and TFI module in the distributor went bad. It would shut off when I was cruising down the freeway.

Kerry

 

[Ryan M.]

Yeah, I ended up replacing the injector harness because the wires were all jacked up from the previous owner, and the coil connector was also suspect. So replacing that whole harness fixed that problem. I still have other issues I'm dealing with, but one step at a time.

 

[Ryan M.]

Yeah, I ended up replacing the injector harness because the wires were all jacked up from the previous owner, and the coil connector was also suspect. So replacing that whole harness fixed that problem. I still have other issues I'm dealing with, but one step at a time.