94 Mustang gt 5.0 running with tps unplugged

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Also, I'm just asking if your radiator cooling fan is coming on at all. You can check if it comes on by just turning on the A/C or getting the car to a warm operating temperature

I just wanted to point out that if the a/c system is not functioning the fan will not come on when the a/c is switched on. He said it needed a charge so I'm assuming it is non-functional at the moment.
 
I ran the codes again and i got the following:
KOEO
564-Electro-Drive Fan circuit failure
Memory:
113-ACT Sensor Circuit Above Maximum Voltage of 4.6 volts (O), ACT circuit has intermittently failed above the maximum of 4.6 volts (M)
118-ECT Sensor Circuit Above Maximum Voltage of 4.6 volts (O), ECT sensor circuit has intermittently failed above the maximum of 4.6 volts (M)
122-TPS circuit below minimum 0.6 volts (O), TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts (M)
157-MAF sensor went below 0.4 volts during the last 80 warm-up cycles
158-MAF sensor went above 4.5 volts during the last 80 warm-up cycles

Also when i put the key on engine off and put the jumper wire in, the fan kicked on for a couple seconds then shut off. Not sure if that means anything or if thats how its supposed to be.

I also looked at the connectors to the MAF & the Air temp sensor and i dont see any open wires, or loose plugs.

I havent yet cleaned the MAF i need to find the TORX bit, i have them somewhere i dont wanna go buy something i already have.
 
I tested the MAF and the Ground is provided by the ECM internally did not read 12v like it should so from what he said in his post "Your Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts: Recheck all of your Multimeter connections and retest. If you still do not see these 12 Volts... then this exonarates the MAF Sensor as BAD, since without this Ground.. it's not gonna' work." So does this mean i need a new MAF or what does this mean? Part 4 -Ford MAF Sensor Test (P0102, P0103, P1100, P1101). This is where i found how to test it. Not sure how to make it a link sorry.
 
Not sure what that is. But if your talking about reading the MAF while the engine is running and watching the VMM go up and down when i rev it. Yes i did, and it worked fine volts went up and down smoothly and no deadspots. Im thinking it might be a clogged fuel injector cause i have been running it low on fuel lately and it would explain why its acting the way it is. thanks
 
Reading the MAF is not the signal return circuit.

How were the MAF readings? What range of voltage did you see?

A cylinder balance test would show a deficient injector.
 
Oh okay what is the signal return circuit?

I got about 1v to about 2.6v but that is because whatever is wrong with my car boggs down and wont let it go above 2200rpms. But from idle to 2200rpms VMM went up and down smoothly.

How do you do a cylinder balance test? I just put some seafoam in the tank hoping to unclogg one if there was one and it didnt do anything.

So now im thinking it might be a couple fouled plugs and if not that then maybe a clogged catalatic converter since i've been running without the tps for so long.
 
Sig return is kind of like a common ground for some of the sensors.

A cylinder balance test is run after codes are retrieved. It's the quickest way to detect a miss at idle or near idle.
 
How can i check and see if im getting enough fuel to the rail? And is there something i can do to check and see if my fuel pump is working correctly without taking the tank down?

And does anyone have a Vac Diagram, cause im getting a loud vac surge from what i think is the thing the IAC is bolted to, and it also runs into the header?

Thanks
 
The pipe that runs from the header is the EGR pipe and connects to the EGR valve which is mounted on the intake.

Take an extra piece of rubber hose and hold it to your hear then move it around where you think the noise is coming from and see if you can pinpoint the location by a sound level increase.

If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you can test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail by connecting it to the schrader valve. Fuel pressure checks are, again, outlined in a haynes manual
 
I found where the noise was coming from it was a vacuum hose that was unplugged. And i wanna take the EGR off to see if thats the problem. If not than im going to clear 2 of the 4 cats. Any other advise on what i should do.

Oh and what fuel pressure gauge do i need to get? the auto part stores have a couple different ones.
Also they have a vacuum tester on some of they is that good or bad?
 
It might be recommended to do some diagnostics instead of modifying, damaging or eliminating systems which might not be a part of any issue.
 
I just ran a KOEO test and i got the 111- system pass. Im kinda stumped as what to do next, i need to have it running right by wendesday so i dont have to much time. If ya'll have any ideas what it could be i would greatly appreciate it. thanks