95 5.0 TB

[JonezySN95]

95 5.0 TB/ idle problems

I have a quick question. I just put a fresh engine in my 95 and im waiting for my elbow adapter to get in. In the mean time I hooked my stock throttle body up to all the sensors and hooked the stock explorer TB up to the intake with nothing else hooked to that TB (JUST TO HEAR IT RUN i WILL NOT BE DRIVING IT THIS WAY OBVIOUSLY) I just want to hear it run to see if I need anything else before my adapter gets here. well its not starting up. Is it because there is no air flowing past the MAF sensor and that the TPS is pretty much useless right now or do i have bigger issues? And what can I do to get it started while im waiting for this part? Its rigged I know . Thanks for the help in advance...

 

[MustangB]

If I am understanding you correctly, if you want to hear it run, you need to install the Explorer parts as if they were going to be permanent. Each sensor and vacuum port must be plugged in.

When I first started my engine, I cycled the key on/off several times. This was to prime the fuel system. If you'll listen carefully, when you turn the key, you will hear the fuel pump start to run for about 2 seconds. This is to pressurize the system. It runs for only 2 seconds because it assumes the lines are already filled with fuel. Yours most likely are not. Cycle the key 5 or 6 times then try to start it.

 

[JonezySN95]

I did that and checked the fuel rail for pressure and there was plenty I also have spark. the TPS wires will not plug into the explorer TB though so thats why I just plugged them into my stock TB and just left it hanging there just to register the sensors were hooked up.

 

[toyman]

Try connecting the MAF as well. I'm thinking the ECU needs to see some input even if it's incorrect before it pulses the injectors. Just a guess on my part as I no longer run a MAF.

 

[JonezySN95]

Yea the MAF is connected but obviously there is no air flowing through the intake tube since its just sittng there. When im cranking it the #3 cylinder header is getting warm but no others. Im not sure if that even matters at all but I figured I would put it in here as too much info is better than not enough. It does have an Fcam (512 lift) but im not sure about the pistons (stock or aftermarket) and if in not mistaken a cam that size needs special pistons for valve clearance. just to eliminate that problem of possible mismatching parts i just may do a compression test in fear that they are stock pistons and some valves could possibly be bent now. but if the test comes back good then im still stuck.

 

[JonezySN95]

I finally got it to crank up! It sounded rough but the point is is that it started. I decided to double check the timing and the distributor was off by one tooth. I set the timing to stock 10* for now. im assuming it wouldnt idle and ran rough because the MAF wasnt getting the proper reading through it since its not physically hooked up to the intake. For now im ok with these results until the elbow comes in then I will tweek it some more.

 

[JonezySN95]

Ugh... alright another question. I got my adapter in today and I can get the car to start but it wont Idle. It sounds nasty and back fires pretty bad and makes a few pinging noises while running (not knocking noises like rods). Im assuming the timing is off but ive adjusted it little by little each way until the car wont even start each direction (and yes I took the little timing chip out by my air filter before doing so). Any ideas on how to solve this problem? Like I said before it has a 512 lift cam and ive never timed a cammed car. Oh yea and im running 87 octane cause thats what was in it before i did my motor swap so could this be part of the problem?

 

[JonezySN95]

Bump for some help here please. Update... When I get it started i have to hold the throttle in a bit and the rpms fluctuate a little bit. I also smell a ton of fuel witch also could be part of my problem right?

 

[toyman]

Here's what I would do next. Remove the plug from #1 cylinder and turn the engine over until you can feel air being pushed out of the plug hole. (Important as the piston can be at the top on the exhaust stroke) Keep turning the crank until the piston is at the top of it's stroke. (you may have to remove other spark plugs to overcome the compression in order to rotate the crankshaft). At TDC (Top Dead Center) the timing pointer should be at 0* on the HB and the rotor in the distributor should be pointing to #1 spark plug wire. If the piston and HB are correct but the rotor isn't pull the distributor and restab it so the rotor is correctly positioned.

 

[JonezySN95]

Yep just did that as well. I pulled the spark plug and turned it over then put a screw driver in the cylinder and repeated until it was close to the top then I hand turn the crank to line up on the 0* mark. Then I checked the rotor cap and it was dead on with #1 on the cap. I then rechecked all my wires to ensure they are in proper order with the cylinder firing order and secured tight to the spark plugs. It still ran like crap when started and wont idle. The pinging I beleive is coming from backfiring through the intake as it backfires through the exhaust as well. Could this be from (A) timing chain jumped time? or (B) the crank and cam just arent lined up correctly? I did not assemble the engine I got it put together already. Also im wondering if it could be my distributor because the engine I just put in is an 85 block. The distributor that was on it was different from my 95. Obviously the wires but more so the flange on the shaft over the gear at the bottom of the base of the head. My 95 distributor would not fit all the way down so I had to pull that flange off and smoothly grind the sides down to match the 85 distributor. Now im wondering if that has anything to do with this problem. Also I will try to add my sig with all the details I know about the engine to help people help me.

 

[toyman]

Is this the problem?

1983 thru 1985, 302ci ford engines firing order is 15426378 except for 302 H/O mustange/capri engine with holly 4180-c 4V carb which is 13726548.

Do you know what '85 engine you have?

 

[JonezySN95]

I beleive its the HO cause it has the XXX under the intake. I could be wrong though. I got it to run decent with the 13726548 firing order and sounds better but doesnt idle still. I took the timing chain cover off just to be sure and found the timing WAS 180 out. I did a comp test and they all tested at around 150 psi except cyl 8 witch was 90. I also found that since its GT40P heads I had to pull the header off to get to cyl 7 plug. I did so and the spark pug was loose! That explains my ticking noise but not my idle issue. I talked to a mech at a shop (the guy i bought my intake from) and he was a little stumped as well. He said that it should still idle (probably rough though) with lower comp in cyl 8 and the plug loose. He suggested to test my idle control sensor and said it may have gone bad. So that the next step for me i guess. He also said he would like to take that head of and pull the valves out of cyl 8 and just check to make sure they arent bent any. Im getting super frustrated with this project though. thanks for all the help though thus far.

 

[JonezySN95]

Another question... during install the plastic plug came off the wires for the coil. Which wire plugs where on the coil? Yellow (ground) towards rear of car and red (positive) towards the frontof the car? thats how its plugged in now. And also does anyone have a link to desribe how to test the coil? I checked the Haynes manual but its not very descriptive.