95 GT Vert build planning

[skeptiq]

So, I just bought the car. Going through the normal tune up stuff to make sure the foundation is up to spec before starting the fun stuff. I have been thinking about what I want to do with it and I have come up with a rough in of what I want to accomplish. Since it's been a decade since I have been into mustangs and even then it was fox body. Now I have an sn95 and don't quite know the differences between fox 5.0 and sn95 5.0.

My goals for this project:
- low maintenance
- fun on the twisties, yet snappy take off
- must be steetable (not a track car)
- thinking 350ish hp

Here are items I would like to do in the next 2-4 months:
- CAI
- subframes
- lowering springs

4-6 months:
- exhaust
- h/x pipe
- headers

6-12 months:
- upper/lower intake
- throttle body
- mass air

12 months and beyond:
- shift kit / possible rebuild
- cam
- heads
- suggestions to get to 350ish hp???

So for all the sn95 5.0 gurus out there, what are some realistic hp expectations if I meet my 12 month goal with good components?

Questions I still have what kind of upper/lower, tb, mass air combos compliment each other. Like cobra, gt40, etc also 65 tb/70mass or 70tb/75mass... short tube vs full long tube headers, what kind of exhaust. I don't want really loud exhaust, just one that has a nice tone to it.

So fire away and help me make my pony gallop!

Later,
Ben

 

[revhead347]

There aren't too many difference between the power trains of a Fox and an SN 95. I'll give you a list of the key differences. I have also owned a Foxbody before.

1. Accesories, obviously they are different. The SN engine has the accessories reorganized, because the engine had to be 3 inches shorter to fit under the hood of the SN. As a result, the water pump and timing chain cover are a different design.
2. The intake is lower, and a slightly different angle on the throttle body. The throttle body itself is actually better quality, and doesn't stick open anywhere near as often as a fox body. MAF is a bigger design with a flange, and the IAT sensor has been moved from the number 5 runner to the inlet pipe.
3. The distributer is different, the ignition control module and the PIP are located on the passenger fender. EGR is different too, with the pipe coming off the header primary, instead of coming back up through the heads into the intake.
4. The T-5 manual transmission is 5/8" longer in an SN then in a Fox, and the clutch fork is in a different location. SN, and Foxbody longtube headers are not interchangeable with SNs for this reason. If you put a Foxbody style transmission and bellhousing on it, then you can run foxbody longtubes.
5. The computer gets a bad rap on the SN. It does not agree with certain combinations as well as the Foxbody did. However, once you put a chip on it, it works just as well.
6. Fuel rails are a different design.
7. The very front bolt on the driver's side exhaust header is a MF to get too.
8. SNs have 4 wheel disk brakes
9. SNs have a much more rigid body, which is the main reason they weigh about 150lbs more than a hatchback foxbody. They don't have the tendancy to fish tail as much because of this.
10. Suspension is virtually identical. Caster camber plates are differnent, and the stock struts are a hair taller. However, you can run any aftermarket foxbody strut in an SN.
11. Sub frame connectors weld onto the rear subframe a little differently.

As for making 350hp, Trick Flow offers an H/C/I combo that advertises exactly 350hp. It's a good deal, and that's what I would recommend. There are plenty of throttle bodies available, 70mm is about all you need. Even the stock one isn't that bad. Pro-M is gone now, and another company has skewed off from Pro-M's original employees called PMAS. They make a good MAF that you can use. 75mm or whatever will be fine.

Kurt

 

[Husky44]

Your goals (other than the 350 hp) are very similar to mine and what I'm currently running.

FWIW, other than what you listed, and before I went very far with engine mods (definitely prior to an H/C/I swap) I'd upgrade your rear gears. You said shift kit, so I'm assuming an A/T car, which leads me to believe you have <3.0 rear end (can't remember what the A/T ratio is). 3:73s or taller will be the best single SOTP upgrade to get you the "snappy take off" you're looking for, and it'll cost you less than an H/C/I swap.

 

[ProKiller]

i agree with both Kurt and husky. the TFI top end kit will be a lot better than gt40s. you would be coming way under your goal with gt40s. you don't have change your maf until you get different injectors. I would get some 24s on there after the top end kit and do the maf then. 255lph fuel pump.

you want twisty fun then i would suggest spending some dime on a good suspension setup.

 

[skeptiq]

Thanks guys, have been getting good input and changing the mod path so to speak. Keep the ideas coming, interesting in looking into different things.

Ordering standard cai kit very soon along with some mac dumps...

Looking forward to some minor wrenching soon...

Later,
Ben