A buddy of mine is wandering whts the easyest way to get 400RWHP out of a 2.3T?

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by T3AL, Dec 10, 2004.


  1. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    Well put :nice: I just got a few questions and my .02 remarks.


    I never priced any of these before, what do they usualy run?

    Ah man you can't do it with 45's :bang:

    I would do some porting on the intakes as well. Keep in mind it's VERY easy to take to much material off aluminum.

    Are you saying Bobs also adds 20-30 rwhp also? Thats not to bad :nice: A ported E6 I think is 11 rwhp but don't quote me.

    The reason is a 2.3T air sensor (VAM) want support much over 300 hp. I mean like less than 5-10 over at best.

    I'm not sure I would go over a 50 shot my self and only to help off the line with turbo lag. Thats just my feelings on this.
    #21
  2. Red_LX

    Red_LX I’m not much help unless you’re looking for porn! Mod Dude Founding Member

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    If you go into the intakes with sanding rolls, it's easy to smooth them out without removing too much. However in the upper there is all kinds of stuff that needs smoothed out, and some in the lower as well (I actually used a carbide bit quite a bit in the upper)
    #22
  3. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    I did the same thing my self. Since I didn't gut my upper I used a wheel to get most of the runners smooth but thos wheels are pretty short. This is where a really long carbide came in handy;) I was kind of nervus since this long bit woblbed a lot but it turned out pretty good. Then I used my Dremial with a sand wheel to help smooth out the parts the carbide bit got a hold of. I got one of those long extenions for a dremal that helped in those small places really good.

    Ray's SVO upper intake triv...I tied up about 48+ hours on the upper intake alone :eek: I'm sorry about the stock out side looks of a 2.3T upper intake is crapy looking to me and thus I had to do some sanding on it :D
    #23
  4. T3AL

    T3AL New Member

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    Well I would have a shop port and polish the head and intake and such cause I dont want to **** up the intake.

    What size cam would you suggest?

    What holset would you guys suggest without an inturnal bov?

    How hard would it be to install an aftermarker BOV?

    as mentioned a while ago spray dosent do well on a road race.

    So starting off with a 88TC motor(or what ever other 205hp motor), a bobs header, holset(?), larger injectors, port and polish, cam(?) would a 3angle valve job help? well **** think about the price of a valve job and a porting, an esslinger head would prolly be a cheaper way to go.

    would adjustable cam gears help at all, change it all over to round tooth gears.

    CAI thanks for reminding me whoever said that.

    aprox what psi of boost would be the sweet spot on something of this magnatude?

    Who makes a good T3/T4 turbo?

    and how will gas milage be at 400horseponies?
    #24
  5. i4power

    i4power Founding Member

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    I'll answer these as best I can:

    I think you mean the wastegate. Most cars don't use blow-off valves stock, and they aren't internally installed in the turbo.

    If i'm not mistaken, both MikeSVOR and Brantley are using the HX35.

    Pretty simple. Just weld it onto the intercooler piping after the intercooler. The closer to the TB, the better, if I remember correctly.

    If you meant aftermarket WASTEGATE, then it's completely different. You can't use an aftermarket external wastegate if the turbo has an internal one stock. You'll have to buy a turbo without a wastegate at all, then you'll have to get a special, small flange put on the exhaust manifold/header (Stinger has one on his model). I think you can get one put on right after the turbine exhaust section, but i'm not 100% on that.

    You don't have to grab the 200 or 205hp motor to get a head start. You could get the 140hp engine if you wanted. The only differences are boost and intercooling.

    If you want 400hp (or close to it), here is what i'd go with:

    - T03/T04 turbo, or the HX## turbos. (x35 or y35) at 25-28psi boost
    - NPR intercooler
    - somewhat meaty cam
    - SDS fuel injection control ($1100! It'll allow any fuel injector size, and runs off of a fully programmable speed density-style setup. That means no restrictive VAM!!!)
    - 52lb+ injectors
    - fully ported heads and big valves
    - FULL (turbo outlet back) 3" exhaust and aftermarket header (like Bob, Stinger, Rod, etc.)
    - Upgraded ignition system (for more reliability, not HP)

    Oh, and have the short block and head COMPLETELY rebuilt. It will cost a tad, but it will help it run great for a LONG time.

    The cam gear doesn't add horsepower by itself, but it'll allow you to adjust cam timing. I guess that could add horsepower if it wasn't tuned correctly.

    A cold-air intake won't do sh**, dude. All you need to do is put the air filter in the fender. It's not really a performance mod with this engine.

    For 400hp, you'll have to run upwards of 30psi. At this point, the stock head is really becoming a restriction, and it shows.

    Well, Garrett/AIResearch makes the turbo, and you can get them from a variety of outlets.

    Under 20mpg, definitely.
    #25
  6. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    Sorry about that I just thought this was straight up wondering about getting power and not information on building a Road racer. Juice is against most OPRR rules anyways and I'm sure is the same for Road racing as well.

    What type of road racing are you doing and if it's a open road race, what speed class are you running in?
    #26
  7. T3AL

    T3AL New Member

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    Thanks I4...pro hawk I do local road type racing(if you call it that), kinda like sccas singleperson racing(time attack if you will).

    Its for the days I cant rally on teh back roads so meh.
    #27
  8. Stinger

    Stinger Founding Member

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    Greg Obrien got 30mpg coming home from the dyno after laying down 418rwhp...
    #28
  9. i4power

    i4power Founding Member

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    Oh, wow! That's new to me. I stand corrected.
    #29
  10. Willy0314

    Willy0314 New Member

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    volvo

    Take one part 2.3T short block, one part volvo 4v head, and mix in a large bowl. Next, mix in a dash of tig welding, and some custom intake and exhust manifolds. Let sit on the engine stand and add one FAST system once engine has cooled. Lastly serve with cold beer and realize you just played god and created a 500 hp monster 4cyl mustang :cheers:
    #30
  11. i4power

    i4power Founding Member

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    DOHC head. :drool:
    #31
  12. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    It sounds like 400rwhp is a little over kill to me. I mean 225 rwhp will put your car into the 13's as fair as drag racing goes. This should be plenty of hp for a road racer unless it's open road racing. If it's open road racing you need X amount of HP to maintain Y amount of speed over Z amount of time/miles. A poor example: a 93' mustang would probaly need 150 bhp to hold a avg speed of 85mph in a 120 mile race course. Thats a rough guess on my part based on my own 93' coupe in a open road race using 115 bhp. These cars can do 85 mph pretty easy but you need the extra power to make up time you wasted to slow down for turns. I guess this is where a person who loves driffting would have some fun :D
    #32
  13. T3AL

    T3AL New Member

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    My dream setup is a T3/T4 turbo, turbo header, FMIC, turn the intake 90*(clean the bay up a bit), HKS BOV, port and polish, Ranger roller cam/followers, HKS boost controller, larger feed fuel pump, Larger injectors, MSD ignition,better than stock forged bottem end, wesco pistons, then a tuner to adjust the ecu specs just incase., 3in duel
    exaust no cats no mufflers, round tooth gear conversion. :D

    top it off with some good suspention 4wheel disk brakes, lowered 2 in, and some nice white 17x9 volk te37's with parelly(sp) tires..

    then a few years down the road go with teh volvo head thing.

    wish there was an actuall DOHC Head that we could use without modifying.
    #33
  14. 351wcoupe

    351wcoupe New Member

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    You were ok up until this point. I never even had 3" duals on my 351 car and I would definately run a muffler. Just make it a straight through one like a borla or dynamax.
    Round tooth converison sounds ok, I'll be doing it too on my pinto but don't expect gains from that. Be sure to pick up a round tooth adjustable cam gear for that ranger cam.
    #34
  15. Willy0314

    Willy0314 New Member

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    whats the benifit of switching from square tooth to round tooth timing gears? belt life?
    #35
  16. T3AL

    T3AL New Member

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    so straight thru mufflers huh?

    Umm from what ive been reading on teh roundtooth conversion is it better belt life yes and easyer for the belt to rotate.

    CAM ADJUSTMENT FO LIFE!

    </sad joke>
    #36
  17. Red_LX

    Red_LX I’m not much help unless you’re looking for porn! Mod Dude Founding Member

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    Also, supposedly the round tooth doesn't jump time as easy as the square tooth, but I've never had a problem with that on either of my cars and they're both square tooth.
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  18. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    I would atleast run a muffler of some kind because to much noise would make it hard to hear detonation.

    PS. a 3" Hooker Aero chamber sounds really nice :nice:
    #38
  19. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    What about the rest of the car?

    I was wondering, with all ths talk about road racing and 400+ hp...what about the brakes? The stock 2.3L brakes aren't going to be safe enough for this type of application. Then there is the 2.3L one legger, the Suspension, and the tires/wheels :scratch: I wonder if it's just better to worry about getting 250bhp and putting the rest of the money else where?
    #39
  20. T3AL

    T3AL New Member

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    Iam gonna buy the MM svo brake package for the fronts and the BAER rear disk package, then beef up the suspention a lil bet take care of the areodinamics a bit, lower it and then adjustable downforce will have to be ised in a wind tunnel.

    know where one is? and dont say between my ears.
    #40

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