A/C not working - Warm air but it is fully charged

  • Sponsors (?)


Okay - I asked my dad about the problem as he knows way more about A/C related goodness than I do and he told me to check the clutch on the front of the compressor... well when the A/C is turned on, it spins for 5 seconds ... then stops for about 10 seconds ... then spins for 5 more seconds and then stops for 10 seconds ... it does this indefinitely.

Does this sound like my A/C clutch is bad? How is one replaced? $$$?

thanks all
 
I have a similar problem every two years or so. There is a sensor or something that goes bad and I have gotten it replaced by a local shop for cheap. I'll check my records to see if I can get you a specific name.

Not sure about the part you mentioned, but that just might be it.

When my problem occurs, I get air to flow at all speeds, just not a hint of cold (had shop test freon level and it was fine, so that wasn't it). After the first time I fixed this, I immediately replace this part and it has always solved the problem. I had my system checked for leaks, but that was a waste of money, I guess (at least I know there is no leak).
 
Okay... Here's some more background on my car's A/C
It wasn't working when I bought it so I took it to some A/C place... They said I needed new lines and hoses and what-not - so I said sure, go for it. I got it back and it worked for 2-3 months. Warranty went out after 30 days and they wouldn't touch it. So is it over-charged? I doubt it since they charged it and it hasn't been touched since.

Carnut - I think you're talking about the low pressure sensor that you can jump with a paperclip - I tried that but it still doesn't work. :)
 
Yes, I know my engine bay is filthy; go suck an egg.

ac_accumulator.jpg


If you'll notice the accumulator in the center of the pic (black canister) you'll see a plug with two wires going to it, a purple w/white and a blue w/yellow (IIRC). This plug is the connection for the pressure safety switch. It senses pressure and if it drops too high or low, it will kill power to the compressor clutch (by opening the circuit).

In order to verify that this is the culprit, pull that plug off and run a jumper wire between the two terminals inside of it (the plug, not the actual switch on the accumulator). Now turn the AC back on. It should come on and stay on. Now shut the AC off.

If it did indeed come on and stay on, the pressure safety switch is either working or it isn't. What this means is you either need the switch replaced or you actually do have too high of pressure in the system. Either way, based on your self described lack of AC knowledge, you need to take it to a shop.

After completing this test, be sure to plug the wiring back in. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES LEAVE THE SWITCH JUMPERED AND RUN THE AC!!! If there is actually a high pressure situation in there, you could easily destroy the compressor by over working it. Also, when doing this test, run the AC with the switch jumpered for as little time as possible. You just want to confirm that it isn't starting and stopping like you described earlier and that it is a condition of the switch causing it..
 
When I did that I jumped the two connections in the switch on the accumulator. My A/C retardedness strikes again!

I'll check right now and upon failure I'll take it someplace and have them check it out.

thanks everyone for your help. and thanks for the picture baglock.. it's always night to have a little reassurance.
 
Alright - I jumped the pressure safety switch and the clutch engages and spins normally now, however it still blows only warm air. If it was just the switch then it should blow cold air, right? Which makes me think it's just empty, or getting low? Either way I'll take it to my friend whom works at firestone.. he'll probably check it for free if the manager isn't there. :)
 
I suppose it could be low pressure, but it doesn't make any sense that it's tripping on low pressure after the compressor kicks in and the pressure rises. Of course, it doesn't make any sense that the system would suddenly be overcharged after a few years of normal operation. :shrug:

I'm starting to believe that the switch is fubar'd and needs to be replaced.