A Few Fault Codes

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by jonnie8881, Mar 25, 2014.


  1. jonnie8881

    jonnie8881 New Member

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    so, I'm back with more problems on my 95 gt...car is driving me insane...so I was getting a little coolant into cylinder 5(3 if you look at the engine like ford does). the head held 125psi on the leak down and compression test it was right at 140. so I thought it was the lower intake gasket that may have failed. so I replaced the lower intake gasket, ran it through a few heat cycles and about 3 miles down the road I got a CEL. got home, read codes and got these 3
    511:processor ROM failed(it's because of my tuner)
    186: injector pulse width longer than expected-----I didn't do anything with the injectors except pull them and put them right back in!!!!
    564: something about the fan circuit which I didn't even touch but now there's a problem

    so I retorqued my lower intake after those heat cycles, and then
    I clean my MAF with contact cleaner and let it dry.
    cleaned the 2 grounds in front of the battery tray and the CCRM connector pins. nothing on the CCRM connector seemed out of place and when I turn on the A/C the fan turns on and stays on whether or not the A/C is turned off or not...codes are still there...could it be the sensor in the lower intake on the driver's side front not telling the low speed fan to turn on because I painted my lower intake while I had it off and didn't get all the paint off that sensor? I feel like that would give me a code 117 for coolant temp sensor below test range? i'm at a loss here with random stuff going wrong on this car I swear...
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  2. toyman

    toyman SN Certified Technician

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    Temp sender on the driver's side is only for the dash temp gauge. The ECT sensor is above the T-stat in the heater bypass housing. The critical grounds are the battery to engine and engine to chassis. Once these are verified as solid you can look to the various component grounding points.
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  3. jonnie8881

    jonnie8881 New Member

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    well...my theory was that the low coolant was causing a false reading on the temp sensor which was ultimately not telling the fan to turn on, when I topped off the coolant, fan code was gone so...guess that's that. somehow though coolant keeps disappearing but im not sure where! I plan on putting a pressure tester on it this afternoon though to maybe find a leak but with the rad half full and the reservoir full, it wont pull from the RES, but when I fill up the RAD, the RES goes empty within 20 minutes of driving?

    anyways, I got it running better by advancing the timing back to 16BTDC like I had it before I took the intake off to retorque the lower. but i'm still getting that code 186 for some reason! maybe when I put this adjustable FPR on later today it will help? or do you think that maybe it's the MAF causing this code? it doesn't come on until after about 10-20 minutes of driving and the car still drives REALLY strong to say the least, also everytime I turn the car off and start it again, the code is gone? maybe the 70mm TB doesn't have enough velocity to give the MAF an accurate reading?
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  4. toyman

    toyman SN Certified Technician

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    As the low coolant sensor is in the degas/overflow bottle it cannot affect the rad fan or anything else. What is the fan code you are referencing?

    Coolant can evaporate from a small leak in an area that you may not be able to see. Pressure testing is the only sure way to find this type of leak. Make certain your rad cap may not be holding to the design pressure of 16 psi. The way you are topping off the rad is probably introducing air into the coolant system. Start by filling the overflow bottle to about the "HOT" marking. Using a new cap keep it off while the engine is idling and while you are filling the radiator. When the rad starts to overflow replace the cap and and get the engine to operating temp then turn off the engine. As the engine cools the rad should start to suck coolant from the overflow bottle. DO NOT let the bottle be sucked dry, so watch it and add coolant as necessary. If you let it empty you will just end up sucking air into the system and have to start all over again.

    16* advance is way too much. Spec is 10*. You want enough advance (using 87 octane) to where it just starts to ping then back 1*. Depending on the condition of the engine you might be able to advance to 14*. YUou appear to be equating codes to CEL function. Codes are stored in the ECU. A CEL can be triggered and then turn off as the sensor comes back into spec. What MAF are you using and what are the engine mods? You need to clear codes otherwise you may be looking at codes from years ago. You need to know what the ECU is data logging now.
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