a little how to install gears (pretty long)

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by 03ghoststang, Apr 22, 2006.

  1. Well this will be my second write up, but this one will be on gears. Key note this was on a 5.0L but same principles apply to a newer mustang with a 8.8 rear end the only difference is the disc portion and abs sensor. but i will note what is needed for that also. I took a total of 4Hrs to do patienece is a key thing here..

    First of on tools needed: (*some are special tools*)

    I might of mentioned other tools i used during the install not mentioned hereon the list:shrug:

    1) if available impact gun other wise a 1/2 breaker bar or ratchet

    2a.) socket in 1/4in. drive 8mm only
    b.) socket(s) in 3/8in. drive 12mm 12pt., 13mm, 15mm, 19mm
    c.) sockets in 1/2in. drive 19mm, 1 1/16in.

    3a.)1/4in., 3/8in., 1/2in. ratchet
    b) 3/8in swivel

    4) wrenches 8mm, 13mm,

    5) E8 female torx for the ABS sensor located in the back of the rear disc

    6) *magnetic base indicator* , *0-6" digital caliper*, *press* * in/lbs TQ wrench*

    7) pry bars different sizes, punch

    Ok now here we go on to the install gears and fluid used where FRPP 3.73's and Royal purple diff fluid caomes with friction addetive
    View attachment 474849

    First of I used a craftsman professional jack to raise the car, and had some decent size jack satnds to make the room neccessary to clear for the install. Removed both rear wheels to be able to remove C- clip later on in the process.
    See pic

    w7y4r8.jpg

    Now i removed the bolts with a 13mm short and deep socket on the rear diff cover except for the top bolt just loosened it up a bit. I use a screwdriver to pry the cover open slowly to release the fluid so it wouldn't get all over the place, now you will need a pan that can hold at least 3qts., then once all fluid is drained remove the top bolt.You can see what i mean in the pic below.

    w7y8fk.jpg

    For the mustangs that have a rear disc set up you will need teh 13mm wrench to remove the top part of teh caliper once that is removed a 15mm wrenchor socket with ratchet to remove the bottom portion to be able to remove the disc. No pic shown... sorry

    Now that the rear Diff cover is off you will need the 8mm wrench to remove the shaft locking bolt. Shown in pic
    w814br.jpg

    after you will need to rotate the carrier about 180* for the shaft to slide out. After this you will push in the half shafts to remove the C-clips and the slide the shafts out slowly so not to damage the seal. A 19mm socket will be needed to remove the cap screws on the carrier caps. They are tight so i would recommend using a 1/2 in. ratchet with long handle to break them loose.Important note everything that is removed must go back to the same spot and mark the caps left and right. You dont want to mix these up. Once that is out the way you will need a pry bar to push teh carrier up for it to pop out * Be careful this thing is heavy * the races will come out along with the carrier.

    w7z95h.jpg

    With the carrier removed you will now take the drive shaft out there are holes there to put a punch in to lock it in place to be able to remove the bolts. Important these bolts are 12pt. so only a 12pt. socket will be needed. Once the drive shaft is removed the bolt that holds the pinion is a 1 1/16in. you can use the 1/2 in. ratchet but i chose my impact gun. Once the that is removed you will need a hammer preferably a rubber mallot to push the pinion out here is where things get tricky for those that dont really know how to do it.

    Here you will need a bearing puller to remove the bearing on the pinion, once the bearing is removed you will have the shim that goes with that. i used the MHD setup for the shimming process. I had asked a trusty friend of mine also about this and most of the time you can use the same shim form the old one on to the new one, but to make sure i used my 0-6" digital caliper to measure this and i got 1.908 on the old one with the shim i put that shim on the new pinion and measured got the same thing. Just incase you get something different use the shims that come in the kit to get the measurement form the old pinion. Now you will need a press to press the bearing on the new pinion i had one so it was easy.

    w8124i.jpg


    After all that i reinstalled the pinion with new crush aleeve and tighten the new nut down here is whre you will need a in/lbs TQ wrench another special tool to get the proper rotational TQ or drag on the pinion. All specs will be written in the end.

    w829eo.jpg

    Now onto the carrier a vice will be required to remove the bolts to replace the ring gear. After teh bolts have been removed a couple of taps fromt teh hammer will be needed to pop it loose. Now you can remove the carrier to slip the new ring gear on, once that is done you will bolt up the ring gear to the carrier first do 5 bolts in a star pattern to seat it then bolt the rest and use lock tight on those bolts they will be TQ to 70-85 ft./lbs.

    After that reinstall the carrier along with the races. Here comes the most time consuming and where patience is really put to the test for a first timer... because you will need to put the carrier shims back now this is the key part on install, they are tricky to put back but it's doable now i did all new bearings and races so the kit came with new shims i had to use those since the ones that came out wouldn't give me proper backlash. Here is where the back lash part come into affect i tighten teh bolts down just snug and checked back lash until i got it right, and i had to add and subtract shims this took me about an hour to get right. This part will make the difference in a good install or a bad one. Here is a pic
    w828up.jpg

    So once i got that done and it was correct i TQ the caps down to 70-85 ft/lbs. and also checked the wear pattern and it was dead on after this i put everything back together, put the drive shaft, cover and filled with fluid...

    Well this install took me about 4Hrs but the payoff is great now i took it on a road test no whines or noises :nice: ..


    TQ specs took these from my friend:

    pinion preload = 8-14 in/lbs (used bearings)
    pinion preload = 16-25 in/lbs (new bearings)

    ring gear bolts = 70-80 ft /lbs
    bearing cap bolts = 75-85ft/lbs
    pinion shaft bolt = 10-15ft/lbs
    drive shat bolts = 85-95ft/lbs

    back lash .008-.015" try to get it around .010-.012"

    well thats my write up on how i did the install. Another key note it will be easy if you do have mechanical skills and the tools required for this job otherwise just pay for the install to be done by a profesional :nice: or you will be sorry...

    :cheers:
     

    Attached Files:

  2. ****ing awesome. You da man.
     
  3. *subscribing* i'll be doing this install pretty soon :nice:

    Gotta rebuild my traction lok and instlal my 3.73s :)
     
  4. good job! I was going to make a write up on gear installs but you beat me too it. I am going to sticky this in the important threads.
     
  5. SVTTech, wanna add in how to install/rebuild a traction lok? :D
     

  6. LOL i have been talking to a few people here that i actually know in person that iwas going to do a write up and today it happen :D

    SCORE now im 2 for 2 on sticky threads :eek: :D

    you can do one on a rebuild for the T-lok
     
  7. Awesome! I'm 100% confident after reading this write up and others that I'll be able to do my own gears when I want to (Just gotta decide, 4.10's or 3.73's with the blower heh).
     
  8. AWESOME!



    But I think I'll stick to paying someone to do a gear install.
     
  9. Once again, AWSOME writeup!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You did that install 100% correct. We dont have the tools (gauges) :(...so we use another method, that I wont mention so as not to confuse anyone. It works though and was told how to do it by a funny car mechanic/drive that we know :D. (drove and built his teams car into the world finals in the 80s)

    Again, awsome writeup...definatly desirves teh sticky in that thread :nice:
     

  10. yeah I will do that soon. I will buy the 40 somthing dollar non pre shimed kit and teach people how to shim them for better traction.
     

  11. oooh nice :nice:

    an update on the install went flawless no gear whine or anything just what i was hoping for :nice:
     
  12. this is why stangnet is the balls.....:SNSign: :SNSign: :SNSign: :SNSign: :SNSign: :SNSign: :SNSign:
     
  13. awesome F'king job man!!!! :nice:
     
  14. AWESOME write-up. One of the best I've seen. I may actually try to tackle this task myself now and save a bunch of $$$
     
  15. thanks fellas...:SNSign: and next in line for me is 4.10's on my 03' GT :nice:
     
  16. i'm doing ring and pinion in my T/A tomorrow. Its nice to know what the process is like befor you drop car off to shop!! Good job
     
  17. I wanna see this. I won't be doing it myself, but i will need tp buy a t-lok rebuild kit when i do gears...Mine's starting to go at times. Mike, how much more will i have to pay to have the rebuild kit installed or do you think they won't charge extra since the rear end will be open anyways?
     

  18. i think that they might charge you for that but if it was a new diff that was going on then No or atleast that is what the shop that i go to does, cause that is another job in it's own.
     
  19. I don't mind paying abit more i just hope its not too much. I want to do everything right and get new bearings and stuff as well since im close to 50k miles now