---I've just picked up a replacement relay for the fans, as well as ordered (for a second time) the repair connector. The system cancelled my original order, so now I am waiting two more* days before installing this... which gives me time to think/ponder.
---I have:
-New Radiator Fan Motor/Air Conditioner Control Relay:
Motorcraft ............ E4DZ8B658A, E4DZ8B658B, E4ZZ8B658A, E4ZZ8B658B, E5SZ8B658A, E5ZZ8B658A, E6SZ8B658A, E6SZ8B658B, E6ZB8C609AA, E6ZZ8B658A, E7GZ8B658A, E7ZB8C609AA, E7ZZ8B658A
Airtek/Wells ......... 1R1764
GP Sorenson ........ MR-121 / MR121
Duralast .............. 20416
SMP .................... RY224
-New Relay Repair Connector:
Motorcrafy ........... E4FZ8C290A
Airtek/Wells ......... 1P1096
GP Sorenson ........ MR-242 / MR242
SMP .................... S549
-Two, 30A ATC (blade type) Circuit Breakers
-Pack of female blade/quick connectors w/heat shrink
---My original thought was to wire the circuit breakers in-line on the wires that showed heat damage... but that doesn't look feasible at this juncture cause after getting down and looking at the attached wiring diagram, it appears the two burnt wires were both switched from ignition and Battery (+)... so what gives? I thought I'd see two relays and the same terminal burnt on both (E.G., 1 & 5, 2 & 6, etc.), but that isn't the case. If that were the case, I would have even thought of wiring two separate Bosch 12v ISO 30A/40A relays in... ~INSERT: pulling out hair smiley~
---Now, the thinking part... as per my first question posted here (was wrong section & deleted); I have no radio, no diode installed to replace the one shown in the "schematics", no idea how to hook up an `88 Mustang's radio wiring without the OEM radio, but my dash lights didn't work and I suspected it had to do with the missing radio. Marker/Parking Lights worked.
---Pulled the Headlight Switch and the resistor was showing no continuity whatsoever, so I swapped the switch for another new... and the darned dash lights wouldn't come on unless the knob was thrown to the "dome" position (which we don't have) with the headlight switch on (no fog lights). The new switch apparently burned out as well, cause again, the dash lights aren't working... I am wondering if there is an issue with a notorious Ford "main bod ground" which I have seen on the passenger side frame rail of Rangers (just behind the cross member) as being nothing more than a metal clip with a wire soldered to it. Kind of like a flag terminal. This sort of half-arsed ground has left many Ranger owners on the side of the road because the entire system just shut down.
---Is there a main body ground for the electrical system, that the cooling fan, dash lights and possibly ignition would tie into? If so, where would it be found? My workstation is down due to the PSU cooling fan burning up, so I can't access my Mitchell1 On Demand software :crying:
---What would cause both the #2 & #5 wires to burn up on that relay harness?
---I've attached an image I picked up from IIRC the allmustangs website while researching hundreds of search results from Lougle to find answers... and possible fixes. While the relay suggestion there doesn't seem to be wired in correctly (looks like the switch is energizing the coil, which is completely backward from even german engineering & against correct wiring of a [-] ground German switch that is illustrated for [+] ground), it is a partial solution. Partial as in... why is the remaining portion of the crappy OEM relay even in the vehicle still. I'd chuck it if I had assess... to diagrams!
---Anyone have a full diagram, preferably from Mitchell? While I understand the FSMs are always the best source, I like the full diagrams mitchell produced over the Schemat-agrams that are a mix of both schematics & diagrams. Having a drafting/design certification under my belt, I find it extremely irritating to try and follow... basically, something that is drawn wrong... but mainly I want to look at the whole picture, not "part of the system is on page 428 and the other third is on 572 and... where is the one wire that isn't shown in the other two?"
---BTDT. I have both Mitchell Domestic/Import Classic as well as my International FSMs and I follow everything from the FSMs but* the subdivided wiring diagrams. When my workstation's PSU comes back from repair, I will UL to my album, the Mitchell diagram for the 88 Mustang 2.3L... if it is a one-to-three page full diagram* like I am use to working with. Some have changed in their books as well... hopefully not in this case.
---I have:
-New Radiator Fan Motor/Air Conditioner Control Relay:
Motorcraft ............ E4DZ8B658A, E4DZ8B658B, E4ZZ8B658A, E4ZZ8B658B, E5SZ8B658A, E5ZZ8B658A, E6SZ8B658A, E6SZ8B658B, E6ZB8C609AA, E6ZZ8B658A, E7GZ8B658A, E7ZB8C609AA, E7ZZ8B658A
Airtek/Wells ......... 1R1764
GP Sorenson ........ MR-121 / MR121
Duralast .............. 20416
SMP .................... RY224
-New Relay Repair Connector:
Motorcrafy ........... E4FZ8C290A
Airtek/Wells ......... 1P1096
GP Sorenson ........ MR-242 / MR242
SMP .................... S549
-Two, 30A ATC (blade type) Circuit Breakers
-Pack of female blade/quick connectors w/heat shrink
---My original thought was to wire the circuit breakers in-line on the wires that showed heat damage... but that doesn't look feasible at this juncture cause after getting down and looking at the attached wiring diagram, it appears the two burnt wires were both switched from ignition and Battery (+)... so what gives? I thought I'd see two relays and the same terminal burnt on both (E.G., 1 & 5, 2 & 6, etc.), but that isn't the case. If that were the case, I would have even thought of wiring two separate Bosch 12v ISO 30A/40A relays in... ~INSERT: pulling out hair smiley~
---Now, the thinking part... as per my first question posted here (was wrong section & deleted); I have no radio, no diode installed to replace the one shown in the "schematics", no idea how to hook up an `88 Mustang's radio wiring without the OEM radio, but my dash lights didn't work and I suspected it had to do with the missing radio. Marker/Parking Lights worked.
---Pulled the Headlight Switch and the resistor was showing no continuity whatsoever, so I swapped the switch for another new... and the darned dash lights wouldn't come on unless the knob was thrown to the "dome" position (which we don't have) with the headlight switch on (no fog lights). The new switch apparently burned out as well, cause again, the dash lights aren't working... I am wondering if there is an issue with a notorious Ford "main bod ground" which I have seen on the passenger side frame rail of Rangers (just behind the cross member) as being nothing more than a metal clip with a wire soldered to it. Kind of like a flag terminal. This sort of half-arsed ground has left many Ranger owners on the side of the road because the entire system just shut down.
---Is there a main body ground for the electrical system, that the cooling fan, dash lights and possibly ignition would tie into? If so, where would it be found? My workstation is down due to the PSU cooling fan burning up, so I can't access my Mitchell1 On Demand software :crying:
---What would cause both the #2 & #5 wires to burn up on that relay harness?
---I've attached an image I picked up from IIRC the allmustangs website while researching hundreds of search results from Lougle to find answers... and possible fixes. While the relay suggestion there doesn't seem to be wired in correctly (looks like the switch is energizing the coil, which is completely backward from even german engineering & against correct wiring of a [-] ground German switch that is illustrated for [+] ground), it is a partial solution. Partial as in... why is the remaining portion of the crappy OEM relay even in the vehicle still. I'd chuck it if I had assess... to diagrams!
---Anyone have a full diagram, preferably from Mitchell? While I understand the FSMs are always the best source, I like the full diagrams mitchell produced over the Schemat-agrams that are a mix of both schematics & diagrams. Having a drafting/design certification under my belt, I find it extremely irritating to try and follow... basically, something that is drawn wrong... but mainly I want to look at the whole picture, not "part of the system is on page 428 and the other third is on 572 and... where is the one wire that isn't shown in the other two?"
---BTDT. I have both Mitchell Domestic/Import Classic as well as my International FSMs and I follow everything from the FSMs but* the subdivided wiring diagrams. When my workstation's PSU comes back from repair, I will UL to my album, the Mitchell diagram for the 88 Mustang 2.3L... if it is a one-to-three page full diagram* like I am use to working with. Some have changed in their books as well... hopefully not in this case.