AFR 165's & stock cam / cobra intake

[Joe Jr.]

I'm back and forth every week as to which heads to go with. I'm big on the 165s and gt40p's. I really want to go the AFR route, but it's hard to get past the $1300 tag just for the heads with springs that won't go far into a custom cam. So, now I'm thinking if I can live with the stock 165's and the cobra intake, I'd be happy until I could afford the custom cam/springs etc.....I'd have T moss port my cobra lower for me...

anyone running the 165's without a custom cam and a stock bottom end? If so, what kind of hp/tq #'s could be expected........I be doing the typical shorty headers, elect. fan etc....

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

I believe MM&FF tested the AFR 165's with a 264 Extreme energy .512 lift and got like 400 fwhp out of it

 

[PJB]

I bought new AFR 165's with upgraded springs good for .600 lift from Keith Craft Racing on ebay for $1400.

 

[Joe Jr.]

thanks for the replies, but I'm really interested in these heads in their stock form on a stock block with a Cobra intake......

When I see the $1400 with the upgraded springs, my first thought is that some worked over P's and a cam would still be less......

 

[SuperStang83]

You should see a lot more power out of the AFR heads though. And if you are just going cheap now and are gonna eventually get the AFRs later on down the road, why not just wait and save for a few more months?

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

Dude P's and 165 are not even in the same ballpark I would put money on 165's and a stock cam making more power than P's and a cam

 

[jtfairlane]

Of course the GT-40P heads and custom cam will come out to less than AFR 165s.... but comparing the GT-40P's to AFR 165s is like comparing a 6 cylinder mustang to a Terminator Cobra.

Well, maybe not that extreme, but you get the point.

I have owned and run numerous small block ford heads, on both carbureted and efi small blocks. That includes the GT-40Ps and the AFR 165.

I'd go with the AFR 165s and the stock cam (if you won't have the money for another cam) over the GT-40Ps with any cam, any day of the week.

Don't forget you will need specialty headers for the GT-40P heads. Their revised plug angle requires specific headers for plug access.

 

[Joe Jr.]

You should see a lot more power out of the AFR heads though. And if you are just going cheap now and are gonna eventually get the AFRs later on down the road, why not just wait and save for a few more months?

Well your idea sounds like a good one, but i'm basically building the car from scratch, so every $100 counts....I have never had the car running. I bought it as a roller and the difference between afr's and p's is enough for a new k member.......

i was just trying to see if anyone has just run the afr's with a stock motor/cam.....

I know there's a million combos out there and that a cam will wake up the afr's....

I'm probably tending towards the afr's because of the weight advantage and the potential down the road when the rest of the car is ready......

 

[Joe Jr.]

Of course the GT-40P heads and custom cam will come out to less than AFR 165s.... but comparing the GT-40P's to AFR 165s is like comparing a 6 cylinder mustang to a Terminator Cobra.

Well, maybe not that extreme, but you get the point.

I have owned and run numerous small block ford heads, on both carbureted and efi small blocks. That includes the GT-40Ps and the AFR 165.

I'd go with the AFR 165s and the stock cam (if you won't have the money for another cam) over the GT-40Ps with any cam, any day of the week.

Don't forget you will need specialty headers for the GT-40P heads. Their revised plug angle requires specific headers for plug access.

Thats what I wanted to hear.......now you're talking. I know the potential of the 40ps and liked the idea of keeping things all Ford, but the 165s are just too damn tempting....

 

[Dark Knight]

Mines carbed but I have the stock cam and short block, out of the box AFR's with 1.7 rockers. ET in sig is with 100* air temp in Az.

 

[UnderdogGN]

just my personal experience with the 165's....i dropped off 1.3ish seconds in the quarter with just a head and injectors/maf swap!! I. dont think you will pick up those kind of gains with GT40p's but i do not have experience with them so i cannot say.

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

Well your idea sounds like a good one, but i'm basically building the car from scratch, so every $100 counts....I have never had the car running. I bought it as a roller and the difference between afr's and p's is enough for a new k member.......

The weight you save on aluminum over iron heads equals that of a tubular k member not counting the extra 40 horse you will make.

 

[Maryland Stang]

There's a thread on another board asking about the P heads and 1/4 mile times. Most of the replies are in the mid-12s. P heads make plenty of power. It just depends on how money you're willing to spend to go faster than mid 12s.

 

[67coupe]

Mods in sig. Stock cam, injectors and MAF. Runs consistent 8.6 @ 83 mph in 1/8. Full weight LX hatch with working A/C on street tires.

Edit: Also, TMoss has a dyno chart of various combos. The AFR 165, aftermarket intake, stock cam combos are around: 270 rwhp / 310 rwtq

 

[Joe Jr.]

67coupe, thanks for the reminder that Tmoss has that kind of stuff on his site. I really trust the info. he has gathered. Another thing that got me going on the 40p's was that Thumper can do a number on them and get them rockin'. But, I think ultimately the 165's is the route....if nothing else I could resale and still get some money back........(not that I ever would.....)

Mods in sig. Stock cam, injectors and MAF. Runs consistent 8.6 @ 83 mph in 1/8. Full weight LX hatch with working A/C on street tires.

Edit: Also, TMoss has a dyno chart of various combos. The AFR 165, aftermarket intake, stock cam combos are around: 270 rwhp / 310 rwtq