Aftermarket Water Temp and Oil Pressure Sending Units

[Danman765432]

Hey in a couple weeks I am going to be putting in both of these gauges so I was looking for some help/advice. I want to keep it so my stock gauges are still actively working.

For the oil pressure gauge I know you can tee it off but it seems really tight in there. I was wondering what people used and if they could post some pictures?

I was also wondering the same thing about the water temp gauge too?

Did a search and just found out what to do but I am a visual person so I kind of have to see it first.

-Dan

 

[Dan95-5.0]

theres plenty of room for a T fitting for a oil pressure sending unit. the vortech guys do it all the time.

for the water temp, you can install a T- fitting as well. on my Typhoon intake i had an addional port that went into a runner so i installed the factory water temp gauge into that. so now my factory water temp gauge is a Intake Air Temp Gauge LOL

 

[Danman765432]

Thanks for the info...

Does anyone have a picture of either of them?

-Dan

 

[HISSIN50]

Just to be explicitly clear, you don't want to Tee two temp senders in one tee. If you have a Tee with one sender suscepted to the flow of fluid, that's different.

In other words, dont install a Tee in the stock location and stick both senders in the other ends of the Tee. The senders will see deadheaded fluid (not a flow of fluid) and the readings will be off.

I used 1/8" NPT fittings for the OP brass. Ernan once had a really good thread where he put up pics and we outlined all the part numbers and sizes of brass.

Good luck.

 

[ram360]

funny..... I want to do this too. I did a search but can't locate the thread your referring to hissin.

 

[SN95StangMan]

Ernan's post

http://forums.stangnet.com/626677-w...ss-gauge-keep-stock-one-working-here-how.html

 

[donkey_punch]

what ever happen to ernan?

 

[revhead347]

Hissin is dead on. I had to use an adapter to get a water temp gauge to work one time. The fact that it was sitting up just half an inch gave me false readings. The sensor has to be sitting down in the flow of water. You can't put it in the back of the intake either, even though most aftermarket intakes have bungs back there, there is no water flow. I got an aftermarket cast iron water outlet from the parts store. They are $10, and they last a lot longer than the factory aluminum one. The aftermarket iron water outlets have another bung in them to screw in a water temp sensor.

Kurt

 

[ram360]

Hissin is dead on. I had to use an adapter to get a water temp gauge to work one time. The fact that it was sitting up just half an inch gave me false readings. The sensor has to be sitting down in the flow of water. You can't put it in the back of the intake either, even though most aftermarket intakes have bungs back there, there is no water flow. I got an aftermarket cast iron water outlet from the parts store. They are $10, and they last a lot longer than the factory aluminum one. The aftermarket iron water outlets have another bung in them to screw in a water temp sensor.

Kurt

you mean you put another sender in the neck near the t stat?

 

[revhead347]

you mean you put another sender in the neck near the t stat?

Yeah, that's what I did. It doesn't work until the T-stat opes up, but I put the temp sensor there for the computer, and it works fine.

Kurt

 

[HISSIN50]

Eddie, thanks for the link.




I also put the stock gauge sender in the t-stat housing on the 94 (on the fox it's on the rear lower intake, where Kurt noted the poor flow, thus the readings suffer lag and hysteresis).

If you get the parts-store outlet, I'd paint it since it rusts easily.

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, definately paint it. But it lasts forever, and doesn't warp.

Kurt

 

[ram360]

so you guys the picked up a replacement t-stat housing / water neck from autozone and it's a steel one? If that's the case I'll pick one up today.

 

[SN95StangMan]

so you guys the picked up a replacement t-stat housing / water neck from autozone and it's a steel one? If that's the case I'll pick one up today.

let me know if you do that, and if you get a part #. I am going to install some gauges tomorrow. The last time I went to AZ, they only had the regular replacement one that I would have had to drill and tap.

 

[revhead347]

I got mine from Advance.

Kurt

 

[ram360]

didn't get a chance to look for it today but I should be able to stop in tomorrow and if they have something I'll get a p# and post it up.

 

[SN95StangMan]

I was able to take a trip to the parts store. They didnt have the housing with the bung in stock, but I grabbed the part#.

This is the same unit at summit:

Proliance Ready-Aire 9523 - Proliance Ready-Aire OEM Replacement Water Necks

 

[revhead347]

That looks like a pretty good piece there. The one I got at the parts store was cast iron instead of cast aluminum. Either works fine. Just don't get one of those cheap chrome jobs.

Kurt

 

[SN95StangMan]

FYI, I used the "Ernan" method for the oil pressure senders today and it worked great. I did not have to remove any accesories, I just jacked the car up and worked from both underneath and from the top.

I could not find my digi cam so I snapped some cheap cell phone pics.

Getting this ground and stud out of the way will help with getting a wrench in from the top to remove the stock sender.

Here you can get a better look at where that stud would be (red arrow) You can also see the position of the stock sender.

My Autometer OP sending unit had the 1/4 adapter stuck on it, so I had to used an additional 1/4female x 1/8 male coupling (red arrow). In the end, this helped it clear the oil filter.

from below

 

[ram360]

looks good!

As for me.... I went to AZ and Advanced today.... neither had the t-fittings...Now I know they used to b/c I've done a similar thing on both of my fox stangs a few years ago and I bought them there. I have no idea why they don't carry them anymore around here. I'll have to run to a better stocked parts store tomorrow and hopefully come up w/ one.