ahh duhh, what type of oil?
- Thread starter MSM0075
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JamesBaumann said:Uh oh, I've been using Valvoline 10w30 in my Mustang since the rebuild.
The effect I'm talking about is a long term effect (like a few years etc) so a few months on these so called bad oils want be to bad. I wish I had a little more free time to research this so I could better explain it better. I know theres a few guys on TF who could and thats what I first learned of this as well. If It was me I would probly switch to something like Castrol GTX.
ok heres the dealio
I work at wal-mart in the automotive dept. The weights of oils all depend on what year car you guys use it in. the 10w means that in the cold it acts like a 10 weight oil. the 30 means in the heat it acts like a 30 weight oil. In a newer car (94 up) you only want to use 5w30 as the oil passages in a newer car and bearing passages are smaller and when you start that engine with a heavier oil like 10w or higher it wont get into those bearings as quickly on your start up. On a rebuilt I would deffinitly use a 5w for the protection. On an older engine thats used I would use a 10w for that start up protection. The only reason you would want to use like a 10w40 or a 20w50 is to slow engine leaks. And that harms your motor more than anything. It may slow the leaks but it harms the engine dramatically. During the winter you deffinitly want the lower weights. 15w40 is for diesels because its in their make of the motor to burn oil. hint hint, heavier oil is for burning oil engines. as far as brands go castrol gtx is the best. pennzoil the worst, and I hate to say it you guys but motorcraft oil is made by pennzoil/quakerstate. just read the back of the bottle. Also motorcraft filters are made by the honeywell corporation. which guess what. Also makes fram filters. I will agree they are made differently though. But they are still made by fram. Im sure i"ll catch alot of flak for saying that. Any questions or comments I'd love to hear em.
I work at wal-mart in the automotive dept. The weights of oils all depend on what year car you guys use it in. the 10w means that in the cold it acts like a 10 weight oil. the 30 means in the heat it acts like a 30 weight oil. In a newer car (94 up) you only want to use 5w30 as the oil passages in a newer car and bearing passages are smaller and when you start that engine with a heavier oil like 10w or higher it wont get into those bearings as quickly on your start up. On a rebuilt I would deffinitly use a 5w for the protection. On an older engine thats used I would use a 10w for that start up protection. The only reason you would want to use like a 10w40 or a 20w50 is to slow engine leaks. And that harms your motor more than anything. It may slow the leaks but it harms the engine dramatically. During the winter you deffinitly want the lower weights. 15w40 is for diesels because its in their make of the motor to burn oil. hint hint, heavier oil is for burning oil engines. as far as brands go castrol gtx is the best. pennzoil the worst, and I hate to say it you guys but motorcraft oil is made by pennzoil/quakerstate. just read the back of the bottle. Also motorcraft filters are made by the honeywell corporation. which guess what. Also makes fram filters. I will agree they are made differently though. But they are still made by fram. Im sure i"ll catch alot of flak for saying that. Any questions or comments I'd love to hear em.
JamesBaumann
Member
tregore said:
Really good info throughout that post. Amongst all this oil and filter talk I am still just a strong believer in using regular 10w30 and a run of the mill filter and changing it frequently (2500-3000 miles). Im thinking of potentially making the switch from Valvoline to Castrol GTX.
Intresting information. So motocraft filters are really made by fram? That sucks.
I bought a 6pack case of Castrol GTX "Start Up" 10w30 for my '88LX. Bottom end has about 150K on it. 17$ for the case.
I bought a 6pack case of Castrol GTX "Start Up" 10w30 for my '88LX. Bottom end has about 150K on it. 17$ for the case.
The new gtx start up is a great oil. no comparison to mobil 1 though. Also if any of you guys buy the high mileage oil or max life. all it is is regular oil treated with the cheapo oil treatment you can get off the shelf. Save the money and mix it yourself. Or go expensive and get the slick 50(it really works)
Dr_EluSivE
Founding Member
MSM0075 said:
Actually all the data i have found says Motorcrafts are made by purolator. The castrol is good oil, As is the Castrol Syntec (in some respects better then M1) Quaker state tends to sludge, so i would avoid that, but I have always been told that valvoline, and pennzoil were both high quality oils. I have however also seen a study that shows that if changed at every 3000, most oils perfom the same. the difference mainly comes as the milage increases. I had a magazine that did some oil and filter tests.. Ill see if i can find it. I do remember them advising against fram and quaker state though..
Dr.
TurboFlush
Founding Member
:-(
and I have been a FRAM boy alll my life. :-(
Not much choice over here. but I will start using Bosch instead.
and I have been a FRAM boy alll my life. :-(
Not much choice over here. but I will start using Bosch instead.
tregore said:
Heavier weight oil is Not for engines that leak oil. It is meant to take up the extra slack between the bearing clearances.
Heavier weight oils are required for older engines. It keeps the pressure up, helps float the crank, cam, turbo shaft, etc, and helps start-up friction by leaving a thicker coat of oil when shut off.
It is all age dependent.
Pennzoil , I'll never use it again. I've had TOO many oil related failures when running pennzoil.
For my old FourBanger 2.3 turbo, I've always used Valvoline Racing straight 50. Never had any problems out of it.
If you have an older motor and run in the heat of the day, I suggest Valvoline Racing straight 50 weight.
For the past 2 years, I've been running 20w 50 Mobil 1 since I don't put that many miles on my car. It's worth it.
Dr_EluSivE
Founding Member
is the mobil one 20/50 pretty good? I run 20w50 castrol gtx in the MG, it leaks oil though so i havent wanted to put any Syn in. It would just leak faster.Mike SVOR said:
Dr.
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