I've been looking at other Cold Air intakes and wonder if one style is better than the other? Does size really matter or the length of the runner? I currently have the C&L cold air intake. I have noticed that JLT Performance Cold Air Intake is larger and runs into the fender (which i know allows for cooler air) Plus its made out of PVC. Also does the location of the MAF make and difference?
Air intake
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topless98gt
Adhesive Feces
If I remember correctly, JLT is dyno-proven. I've done extensive research on their product (years ago) and it seems really amazing. I was going to purchase one, but I got rid of the urge to mod my car, and instead fix the things that are wrong with it 
If you do purchase, make sure you look around -- I don't remember where, but I found one for $184.99 (free shipping) about 2 years ago, when all of the other sites had them for $219.99 + shipping.
What I know about the JLT is basically what you said above: made of 4" PVC, fender-mount, and it comes with a lifetime re-usable filter.
I really don't think that the location of the MAF matters much, but I could be wrong.
If you do purchase, make sure you look around -- I don't remember where, but I found one for $184.99 (free shipping) about 2 years ago, when all of the other sites had them for $219.99 + shipping.
What I know about the JLT is basically what you said above: made of 4" PVC, fender-mount, and it comes with a lifetime re-usable filter.
I really don't think that the location of the MAF matters much, but I could be wrong.
Crzyhrse
Active Member
If you've already got the C@L then don't waste your money on another one. I originally had a K@N CAI, but in 2004 no one had any clue why the K@N's were causing stalling issues (yes, of course now everyone knows), so I ditched it and bought the C@L. Never had any problems.
Crzyhrse
Active Member
The screen that was in the stock unit was suppose to be put in the K@N CAI when you switched them out. I had sporadic stalling when I would make a right hand turn or when I came to a stoplight. The ironic thing is that the C@L did'nt need a screen put in it to work fine.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
trinity_gt
10 Year Member
sneaky98gt
10 Year Member
When my granddad bought his 04 Mach 1, and we were going through all the general maintenance stuff, the stock filter was pitch black with dirt, oil, and all sorts of general nastyness. We put a new K&N filter in; it's only like $60 versus $200 for a CAI versus $30 for a new stock filter, so it's a good in-between. It was actually a noticeable difference, something I can't say about any other Mustang I've driven. I could definitely feel it pull better up top. I'm sure that dirty stock filter was choking it a good bit.
flstang65
10 Year Member
Crzyhrse
Active Member
I did'nt say "all", but it was more than isolated cases. It was a problem with Mach's (not sure about GT's) and quite afew of them were for sale on Mach 1 Registry back then.
twogts4us
15 Year Member
+2 on the stock airbox with a K&N filter.
Those dyno results are often (notice I didn't say always, I said often) gains with optimal operating temp and are typically at the top of the RPM range. Some have even lost power / torque at the bottom of the RPM range.
Crzyhrse
Active Member
Not sure. Maybe just some kind of airflow glitch. Mine did it afew times a month. Pretty much the first answer to someone getting a K@N on Mach 1 Registry is "Put the screen in".
trinity_gt
10 Year Member
I know a K&N FIPK led to detonation on mine back in the day, right around 4000RPM. This was with a custom tune that had more aggressive timing. Some logging showed the MAF reading goofy right around the time of the detonation.
I remember doing some calculations back then and concluded that it may have been related to a resonance in the intake that led to a standing wave forming causing erroneous readings from the MAF.
Dunno if it's true but when I went to a JLT the problem went away.
I remember doing some calculations back then and concluded that it may have been related to a resonance in the intake that led to a standing wave forming causing erroneous readings from the MAF.
Dunno if it's true but when I went to a JLT the problem went away.
Night Shifter
Well-Known Member
Just stick with the C&L since you already have it....no sense in spending a ton of money for something you already have
well thanks for saving me some $$. I found out more info from a gear head friend of mine about this too. What i got from him is its not about how much air can flow or the size of the air intake, its about how much the eng can suck in and then match it w/ the right fuel psi. does anyone know how much air the 4.6 mod eng can flow?
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